My Bike Just Quit Part 2

[burnbender]

In the previous post I stated that I washed my 2003 R1150R and the bike quit within a half block. I was advised that my problem was the Hall sensor. I purchased a new sensor from Beemer Boneyard and installed. The bike started up but ran rough. I then thought about recalibration of the throttle bodies. I started by removing the idle screws and cleaning them and using a Q-tip to clean out the hollow, which in fact was needed. I proceeded with balancing the throttle bodies. The bike started and was idling fine. I took it for a 100 mile ride. Upon returning to town, the bike idled rough at the first stop light. Frustration set in and I parked the bike for the night. When I went into the garage to start the bike this afternoon, it would not start at all. It did fire just a little but would not pass go and collect $200. One other note, the idle is a little lower than before the sensor went bad. Question, do I not have the Hall sensor advanced enough?. Can someone point in any direction? I have a ride coming up the second weekend in June and need to have this taken care of well before then for my own peace of mind.

 

[gsaddict]

Fuel comes to mind, pull the return hose and see if fuel is returning.
Ideally if you do get the engine running you should get 2 L per minute.

 

[burnbender]

Thanks Gs Addict, and just for good measure I'm going to clean the fuel injectors. I replaced the fuel filter in April. Fuel return hose? Are you referring to the hose from the charcoal canister? The canister has been removed. Is it possible that the junction where the return hose plugs in has a problem?

 

[burnbender]

GSAddict, I feel really stupid. I just looked at my Clymer's and realized the return hose is the top hose of the two fuel lines. I will check it out tomorrow as it is getting very late here.

 

[burnbender]

When this whole thing started, I panicked and took the bike to a repair shop. Mistake #1. Mistake #2, I purchased a new unit from Beemer Boneyard and let the repair shop install the new unit. I get the bike back and it runs rough. Refer to original post for the rest of the story to this point.
Now GSAddict says to inspect the fuel return hose so I pull the tank today and find that the mechanic has zip tied the two fuel lines together partially collapsing the return line. Ok, problem solved. Not so much. I put the tank back in place, not bolting it down just yet, hook up the fuel lines, vent hoses, and fuel pump wires. Turn the bike on, hit the starter, still no start, but I notice a faint squeal from under the front engine cover.
I was reminded of a video from Chris Harris entitled "Sloppy Technicians". Thank you Chris. I decided to take a look under the hood, so to speak. First inspection reveals little black plastic parts which look suspiciously like the black plastic on a Hall sensor. I removed a spark plug, no gas. I ground the plug, no spark. I look at the six pin plug from the old unit and there are 5 wires, the new one only has 4. I begin the process of disassembly and the alternator bolts are so tight they squeal upon loosening and I can't even get the drive pulley bolt loose. We can all see the moral of this story. I am going to send the old Hall sensor to GSAddict and pray I can get the drive pulley bolt removed or better yet, take it back to the mechanic and have him loosen it under threat of bodily harm.

 

[gsaddict]

In order to get the pulley bolt loose you will need to lock the flywheel.
It is torqued to 50 nm
PM your email address and I'll send you re&re instructions.

 

[burnbender]

If you want something done right, do it yourself.

In order to get the pulley bolt loose you will need to lock the flywheel.
It is torqued to 50 nm
PM your email address and I'll send you re&re instructions.

Made myself a flywheel locking tool and removed the drive pulley. The rotor had separated from the drive pulley and completely destroyed the "New HES". After speaking with GSAddict, I received a beautiful HES built the way BMW should have done it in the first place. The man does great work. I am excited. With GSAddict's advise, I properly time the new sensor to the bike. Way to easy, thanks again GS. Hook up the gas, hit the starter, and the bike starts right up but makes a terrible sound. Quick inspection reveals the drive pulley has a bad wobble and is again tapping on the HES. (By the way, a dear friend of mine bonded the rotor to the pulley making sure it is flat to the pulley and centered properly) The rotor did not contact the HES, the pulley was tapping on it. My friend and I made an arbor and using an assembly table straightened the pulley. I will reinstall tomorrow and hold my breath that every the was damaged has been addressed. Wish me luck.