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F-Twins Tech - F650/700/800 - Renewing Chain and Sprockets

drneo66

Well-known member
The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.


Please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability. Here's a link where you can look up a place to dispose of your used fluids (oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc.) - http://earth911.com/

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.

PLEASE PRINT AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING!

Final note: The motorcycle's two wheels are the only thing keeping you upright. When in doubt, take your motorcycle to a reputable dealer.

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Renewing the Chain and Sprockets on your F-Twin F650/700/800

Just like talking about tires and oil on the interwebz, bringing up the topic of what chain to buy and how to care for it can easily cause emotions to flair. Personally, I ascribe to the thinking that having a clean, lubricated, and properly-tensioned chain is best; no matter what brand or color.

Even with proper lubrication, over time our chain and sprockets will wear out. The chain will "stretch" as various portions of the chain wear down, and the sprockets will deform as the metal wears away. There are many variables that go into how long a chain will last. Lubrication and cleaning schedule, O-ring/X-ring life, time/miles spent in the rain, if you live in an area with a lot of sand, or you ride a lot off road will all have an effect on the chain life. Average life expectancy from anecdotal evidence gathered from other riders is to expect about 8,000 - 12,000 miles from the OEM chain. However, you'll find that some riders can only go 6,000 miles on a set of chain and sprockets, while others claim mileages of 40,000+.



How to check to see if you need a new chain:
- BMW has you measure the chain across 9 chain rivets (center of one pin to the center of the other pin) and the maximum distance (for all models) that this measurement can be is 144.3 mm (5.7 inches). If you're over that distance, it's time for a new chain.
- If you struggle setting the proper chain sag. When you set the sag on you BMW, you rotate the chain to where it is the tightest and measure/set the sag at that point. If at this point you've run out of adjustment, it's time for a new chain. Also, if you are able to set the minimum chain sag properly at the tightest point, and then rotate the chain to the loosest point and notice that the measurement is over the maximum sag limit, it's time for a new chain.
- If you notice that there are links in the chain that do not bend and flex easily, then it's time for a new chain.

How to check to see if you need new sprockets:
- Look at the sprocket teeth, if they've become sharp at the tips or curled in one direction or the other, then it's time for new sprockets.
- If you're missing sprocket teeth, it's totally time for new sprockets.
- While your looking at the rear sprocket, and you grab the chain at the 9 O'clock position, if you can pull the chain away from the sprocket and see daylight, then it's time for new sprockets.


It's generally recommended to replace both your chain and sprockets at the same time.
Replacing only one or the other may lead to premature wear of the newer part.


Note 1: The specific bike shown is a 2013 F800GS, the other models should be similar
Note 2: The tools and materials used are by personal choice and are not due to any affiliation with any brand
 
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Materials needed:
- Chain
- Front Sprocket
- Rear Sprocket (plus new bolts and nuts)



The chain size, length, pitch, and type are all the same on all 650/700/800 GS model F-twins.

Chain:
BMW part number: 33 83 7 729 213
Chain length: 115 links in length (plus the master link, which technically makes it 116 total)
Chain pitch: 525 pitch
Chain type (stock): Sealed o-ring


The size of the sprocket and the size of the bolts that hold on the rear sprocket to the rear carrier vary depending on the year of manufacture and bike model. Later model years generally have 10mm, while the earlier years had 8mm, but double check before ordering


F650GS (Twin) Sprockets:
Front sprocket (stock size): 17 teeth
Front sprocket BMW part number: 27 71 7 708 480
Rear sprocket (stock size): 41 teeth
8mm bolt hole rear sprocket set (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 470
10mm bolt hole rear sprocket (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 615


F700GS Sprockets:
Note: the 700GS only came with a 10mm bolt pattern
Front sprocket (stock size): 17 teeth
Front sprocket BMW part number: 27 71 7 708 480
Rear sprocket (stock size): 42 teeth
10mm bolt hole rear sprocket (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 33 81 8 533 977


F800GS/F800GSA Sprockets:
Front sprocket (stock size): 16 teeth
Front sprocket BMW part number: 27 71 7 708 479
Rear sprocket (stock size): 42 teeth
8mm bolt hole rear sprocket set (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 616
10mm bolt hole rear sprocket (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 33 81 8 533 977


BMW also advises that you replace the bolts and nuts because they are a one-time use item. You'll need 6 of each.
8mm bolt hole
Bolt: 07 11 9 906 181
Nut: 07 11 9 905 977

10mm bolt hole
Bolt: 07 11 9 902 912
Washer 07 11 9 907 114
Nut: 22 11 6 779 973

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The chain size, length, pitch, and type are all the same on all 650/700/800 R model F-twins.

Chain:
BMW part number: 27 72 7 727 468
Chain length: 119 links in length (plus the master link, which technically makes it 120 total)
Chain pitch: 525 pitch
Chain type (stock): Sealed o-ring


F800R Sprockets 2005-2014
Front sprocket (stock size): 20 teeth
Front sprocket BMW part number: 27 72 7 722 179
Rear sprocket (stock size): 47 teeth
8mm bolt hole rear sprocket set (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 616 (xxx check these)
10mm bolt hole rear sprocket (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 48


F800R Sprockets 2015+
Front sprocket (stock size): 19 teeth
Front sprocket BMW part number: 23 00 8 537 747
Rear sprocket (stock size): 47 teeth
8mm bolt hole rear sprocket set (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 486 (xxx check these)
10mm bolt hole rear sprocket (with new nuts/bolts) BMW part number: 27 71 7 726 48


8mm bolt hole
Bolt: 07 11 9 906 181
Nut: 07 11 9 905 977

10mm bolt hole
Bolt: 07 11 9 902 912
Washer 07 11 9 907 114
Nut: 22 11 6 779 973
 
Tools Required:
- 24 mm socket
- 17 mm socket (xxxxx)
- Ratchet that fit the above
- Breaker bar (optional, but may be needed as the axle nut and front sprocket nut are quite tight)
- 8 or 10 mm wrenches and sockets (depending on your rear sprocket carrier bolt size)
- 13 mm open ended wrench
- T25 Star (Torx bit)
- T27 Star (Torx bit)
- Torque wrench
- Way to remove the chain, either: Chain removal tool or angle grinder
- If using a riveted master link, a chain rivet tool
 
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A note about chain types:

A typical aftermarket chain will come as noncontinuous strip of chain links, whereas the BMW chain referenced above will be an "endless chain." If you choose to buy the OEM BMW chain, note that you will have to remove your swingarm to properly loop the chain around the swingarm. This guide shows using an aftermarket, noncontinuous chain that will need to be connected together to form a loop using a master link. Master links come in two different formats, either clip style or rivet style. The rivet style further divides into two choices, one that needs a tool to peen the pins with or one that uses a threaded pin that breaks off after installation.

Like so many things in motorcycling, each has their devout following. Whichever way you decide to go, make sure that you check it regularly for abnormalities.

We will be using a standard rivet style in this tutorial, because it requires more tools. Having more tools in your tool box makes you cooler by 2.34 "Coolness standards" per tool, according to the rules that I just made up. You're welcome.
 
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It's easiest to use the weight of the bike on the side stand to get the front and rear sprockets loose first, before we put the bike up on the center stand or lift.

Using your T25 Star (Torx bit), loosen the three bolts holding on the front cover (as indicated by the green arrows). The one on the bottom is a little tricky to get to, but I found that I was able to press the rear brake down far enough to get a clear shot.

IMG_9598.jpeg
 
We will now loosen the front sprocket retainer nut (no need to remove it yet) using our breaker bar and 17 mm socket. To prevent the bike from wanting to roll around, I hold down the rear brake as I loosen the bolt (highlighted in green).

IMG_9600.JPG
 
Next we will loosen the rear sprocket nuts/bolts (highlighted in green), using your 16mm (or 12mm) socket and breaker bar along with a 16mm open-ended wrench for the backside (or 12mm).


Note: there are 6 nuts/bolts, one is hidden by the swingarm in this photo.

IMG_9599.jpeg


Using your 24mm socket and breaker bar, loosen (but don't remove) the rear axle nut.

IMG_9321.jpeg
 
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To create some space in the rear caliper, firmly push the brake caliper against the disc to force the caliper piston in. You won't really notice too much movement, but you will appreciate the extra couple of millimeters of space when we go back to reassemble the bike.

Then place the bike up on the center stand or an appropriate stand to allow the rear wheel to be above the floor. Please make sure that the bike will not fall over! I like to run a strap from the center stand through the front wheel to prevent the center stand from folding up.


IMG_9320.jpeg
 
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Remove the speed/ABS sensor from it's housing on the rear wheel using your T25 star (Torx) bit as indicated by the green arrow. Tie the speed sensor and wire up and out of the way.


Note: this bike has an aftermarket bracket that covers the original speed/ABS sensor (10 mm bolt).

IMG_9320.jpeg
 
Using your 13 mm open-ended wrench, loosen the lock nut on the chain adjusters. Then, loosen both the throttle side and the clutch side chain adjusters so that you create excess chain slack.

IMG_9323.jpeg
 
We will remove the chain next. Gently push the rear wheel forward to create slack in the chain, then disengage the chain from the sprocket.

IMG_9325.JPG
 
We can now remove the rear sprocket carrier from the wheel. If you choose to set your wheel down, make sure you prop up one or both ends with something solid, so we don't damage the brake disc. It's hard to see in this photo, but I have the tire held up off the floor using a 2x4 board.

BMW says it's fine if the rubber dampers (cush drive) are no longer connected together over the support casts in the wheel. However, if your rubber dampers are severely worn, or quite cracked, it's probably best to replace them.

IMG_9327.JPG
 
Now would be a good time to check the wheel bearings for any notches or grinding. Replace the bearings if you feel any problems!

Using your 16mm (or smaller if the older size) socket and wrench, remove 6 old bolts, washers, and nuts from the sprocket and carrier. Using your new bolts, washers, and nuts, torque the nuts to 10 Newton meters (7.4 foot pounds or 88.5 inch pounds) and an additional 90 degrees. Stated a different way, torque the nuts, then tighten them an additional 90 degrees (hold your wrench at 12 o'clock, and tighten to the 3 o'clock position).


IMG_9603.jpg
 
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I like to clean up the backside of the sprocket carrier before I put it back into the wheel. You may find when you try to put the carrier back into the wheel, it's a little of a tight fit due to the rubber dampeners.
 
Next, let's replace the front sprocket.

Remove the bolt and the old sprocket from the sprocket spindle. You may have to use some penetrating fluid to work the sprocket off the spindle. You'll notice that there are two washers, one is a normal washer, the other is a spring washer. The sping washer places tension on the sprocket during use, so it doesn't back out accidentally.

Clean the spindle, then install the new sprocket on the spindle (the spindle should be coated in MP 3 paste, which is an anti-seize lubricant). Make sure to install the sprocket with the larger collar facing the engine - some sprockets have words imprinted on them, they should face out towards you (double check any included paperwork from where you bought the sprockets). You can temporary install the bolt and washers as well as loop the chain back onto the sprocket.

In this picture, the side with the breaker bar sticking out, goes towards the engine.

IMG_9607.jpg
 
Next, you'll need to break the chain. I personally use a PBR chain breaker by Motion Pro, but there are many brands that will work.

Basics of chain breaking/joining:
1. Push out one of the pins
1a. You can choose to grind off one of the pins of the chain (this will make it easier for your chain breaker to push out the pin)
2. Remove chain from bike
3. Thread new chain around sprockets (it helps if the bike is in neutral)
4. Rejoin the chain
4a. Install the master link
4b. Secure the master link with whatever method that you chose (being careful not to squish the o or x-rings of the new chain)

For this replacement, I chose to use rivet style master link

LLWY2379.jpg
 
Now we have a new front sprocket (with the bolt to yet be tightened), a new chain, and a new sprocket on the rear wheel.

Let's reinstall the rear wheel.

Double check that the rear brake carrier is still seated on the guide of the swing arm (indicated by the green arrow).

IMG_9352.jpeg
 
The rear wheel has two axle spacers that go into the rear wheel to provide proper clearance for the bearings. Take a moment and clean each of these spaces up, as well as the rubber seals that they go into on each side of the rear wheel. If the spacers have deep grooves worn in them, it's time for replacement spacers and rubber seals.

Using Staburags NBU 30 PTM or equivalent grease, grease each of the spacers and rubber seals. Also grease the axle, but not the axle threads.

IMG_9326.jpeg
 
We can now install the rear wheel into the swing arm.

It may take a little bit of time to line everything up, so don't get frustrated as it's a tight fit. Watch to make sure that the axle spacers stay in place as you fit the rear wheel and that the brake disc goes in between the brake pads. Enlisting a friend may be helpful too.

Once the axle is in through the wheel, install the chain adjustment piece, the washer, and the nut so that is is hand tight.

IMG_9360.jpeg
 
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