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Engine Oil Level

Bad news

After taking a 12 mile ride the other day to warm up the bike so I could check the oil (side stand for 10 minutes then center stand down), the oil level didn't change so I suspected it was overfilled. I went to start the bike tonight and it would barely turn over so I drained the oil and sure enough, about 6 quarts came out....now I’m thinking serious engine damage due to overfilling.

I decided to check the spark plugs and about 2-3 tablespoons of oil ran out of the left cylinder spark plug hole. When I removed the right cylinder spark plug there was a small amount of oil on the exposed threads but nothing more.

Now several questions:

1. Is the engine damaged?
2. Would a compression test be the next step to determine the extent of damage?
3. I understood these engines couldn’t be overfilled as excess oil would end up in the air box, I checked this several times during my rides and never saw any oil....is my understanding incorrect?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
After taking a 12 mile ride the other day to warm up the bike so I could check the oil (side stand for 10 minutes then center stand down), the oil level didn't change so I suspected it was overfilled. I went to start the bike tonight and it would barely turn over so I drained the oil and sure enough, about 6 quarts came out....now I’m thinking serious engine damage due to overfilling.

I decided to check the spark plugs and about 2-3 tablespoons of oil ran out of the left cylinder spark plug hole. When I removed the right cylinder spark plug there was a small amount of oil on the exposed threads but nothing more.

Now several questions:

1. Is the engine damaged?
2. Would a compression test be the next step to determine the extent of damage?
3. I understood these engines couldn’t be overfilled as excess oil would end up in the air box, I checked this several times during my rides and never saw any oil....is my understanding incorrect?

Thanks,
Charlie

Absent strange noises I doubt the engine is damaged. Since it did turn over I doubt you experienced hydrostatic lock. I would fill it to the correct level with 3.5 to 3.75 quarts. I would make sure the battery was well charged and I would start it. I would expect it to win the mosquito fogging bike of the year award when 1st started.
 
Oil Level

Welcome to the forum Bob.
If you don't have a center stand, have a friend sit on the bike while you check the level.
You could also try a mirror taped to the end of a stick.
What bike do you own?

Hi, I have a 2004 R1200CLC. I have the bike for a number of years but this is the first time I have changed the oil. I added just under 4 quarts but it appears the oil is up to the top or low. I can't tell. I will try the mirror trick. Thanks, Bob
 
I understood these engines couldn’t be overfilled as excess oil would end up in the air box, I checked this several times during my rides and never saw any oil....is my understanding incorrect?

I don't think you would see oil in the airbox - it would be in the sump below. There's a drain plug on the left rear corner...put a paper cup under it!

BTW I had a hard time getting my drain plug out the first time...it would turn & loosen (and dribble), but wouldn't let go & actually come out. There's a bit of a friction bump on the two "feet" on the plug that hold it in place when loose; a little harder turn and it will let go.
 
I have a bitch of a time getting my 1200GS on it's center stand. I was told by a well healed multi decade BMW mechanic/owner that if the sight glass has oil showing at top of glass in it on the side stand cold, ride it. If it's at the bottom of the sight glass, add 1/2 a quart. Might be a little over or a little under but that the amount of over or under will not damage the motor.

Apparently he's done just that for decades without issues himself. He said it can be a 1/2 quart over or under filled and not be detrimental to the motor.
 
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I don't think you would see oil in the airbox - it would be in the sump below. There's a drain plug on the left rear corner...put a paper cup under it!

BTW I had a hard time getting my drain plug out the first time...it would turn & loosen (and dribble), but wouldn't let go & actually come out. There's a bit of a friction bump on the two "feet" on the plug that hold it in place when loose; a little harder turn and it will let go.

Thanks for the tip, I was not looking at the right place for drain plug. Once I found it and drained another 1.5L of oil, now the total oil drained is 7.5L....

I changed the plugs and adjusted the valves, will attempt starting it tomorrow.....fingers crossed.
Charlie
 
Thanks for the tip, I was not looking at the right place for drain plug. Once I found it and drained another 1.5L of oil, now the total oil drained is 7.5L....

I changed the plugs and adjusted the valves, will attempt starting it tomorrow.....fingers crossed.
Charlie

Started the bike today and it smoked like the aforementioned mosquito killing machine! I only ran it for about 5 minutes before I had to move it inside the garage. No mechanical noises while it was running but it didn't stop smoking, hopefully no ring damage. The oil level is not showing in the newly installed sight glass since the bike wasn't warm enough for the oil cooler t-stat to open, tomorrow I’ll add some injector cleaner and go for a engine-warming ride. Hopefully the smoking stops and the oil level shows in the sight glass....
 
If I park my RT on the center stand hot when I arrive home and check it in the morning the level is NOT accurate. If I put it on the side stand for five minutes (or more) BEFORE I put it on the center stand whether that is over night or not the level is always accurate.

The oil cooler does not drain when the bike is level on the center stand, hot oil or not. I've experimented with this a lot when I first owned and oilhead and don't want to argue the point every time this comes up.

I've also found that the difference between the level of hot oil after checking it as I described above and checking it in the morning after it sits overnight is about a difference of 1 to 2mm in the sight glass which is not enough to even worry about. The hot oil runs out of the cooler when the bike is tipped left and down into the sump pretty quickly. The residue that drains down after the first 10 to 15 minutes of hot draining is not enough to worry about. The huge equipment that you work on, big arse diesel motors is a different story. I have no experience with them to draw from.
I have a 2006 R12RT same issue. Long storey long, I drained into the never used pot roast kettle, I was a whopping 3qts high. I couldn't get a read from the sight glass. It was either way overfilled or out-of-sight low. I performed the ritual'd quarterly go-round. Centerstand and warmish. I commute to San Francisco from Pacifica what a gnarly commute she be. One day premium weather the next full gore-tex.
Other recents- New tires, Throttle box dist. etc...halogen upgrade. In March new Wilber's ESA. I keep my ride running new.
 
I just sit on the bike normally, then reach down and snap a picture with my cell phone. No dirty knees that way... :)

Best,
DeVern
That method will not work if you have a R1100RT; too much body work in the way. ☹️

It seems that everyone has a different way of measuring oil levels in their Oilheads. I imagine that it might be like checking tire pressure; just consistently use the same method.

In my case, whether or not I immediately refill with oil or leave it to drain overnight, I always add 3.25 litres of oil. After the first ride, I check the oil level at the sight glass and determine how much is required to bring the level to the glass’ midpoint, based on the premise a full sight glass shows 12 ounces. Easy for me. The reason I do not fill with 3.7 or 4.0 litres as that when I have in the past,it has always been been an overfill.

I check my oil level, as advised by a couple of master BMW techs at different dealerships. This entails dismounting the bike and immediately placing the bike on the centre stand. This is followed by removing my riding gear and whatever else for seven or eight minutes and ten checking the oil level.

It is also important for me (but not others) to know the oil level in the morning with the bike on the side stand which of course is nowhere near the centre of the oil glass. If I should be embarking on a long tour, I will often pull my small one wheel trailer. Due to my short stature and modest weight, it is impossible for me to centre stand the bike with the trailer attached, even with it empty. Hence in these situations, I note the oil level on the side stand.

My conclusions from reading this thread is there are apparently more than one way of reading an OilHead’s oil level. By consistently reading your level with the same method (which ever one is used), a rider will know when it becomes necessary to add more.
 
I saved this photo of a partially-disassembled Oilhead motor just for oil level discussions.

The service manual specifies that the difference between the top and bottom of the sight glass is 0.5 L so that provides some scale.

You can see that if the oil is at the bottom of the sight glass, you can still have oil.

You can see that if the oil is at the top of the sight glass, it's not overfilled.

You can see that there would have to be a lot of extra oil to get the crank dipping into the oil.

The airbox would be about at the level of the cylinders so I would think that you would have to massively overfill it for oil to run into the airbox (as opposed to being blown into the airbox).

My oil level check practice is that I regularly park on the center stand and occasionally remember to check the oil. If there's none in the sight glass I add some until it starts to appear. If I think of it while it's on the side stand, I look at the glass, and if there's oil, it's fine.

When the oil is clean it's hard to see the level in the sight glass which is a good reason to leave it alone until it gets a little dirty.

There are some bikes that are oil burners and need to be checked often, and some that aren't and don't.

fishmotor.jpg
 
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