14 r1200 GS After fueling the other night, after my 40 mile ride from work. My bike out of nowhere, fails to start. I cranked, and cranked 10 seconds maybe. put the side stand back down, then back up. Turned key off again. no start. it was cranking over normally speed wise. just no fire. I have had issues with my throttle by wire, in the past, but after restarting it goes away. on 2 different times my throttle has went Dead. no control but reset and its fine? On trying to push start a slight down hill, it just slid the back wheel in first gear. Then resetting again it Started. The was only a 1 or 2 minute issue. I have started it several time in the garage since, but am scared to ride 40 miles to work. Voltage shows 14.2 while running then quickly drops to 12.2 after shutting down the motor. 12.2 seems low ? I my get a new battery, because I ride all winter here in Indiana. My Dealer is 45 miles away in indy. I have cosidered buying a WiFi-911. I hate to pay the dealer, If they could provide me with a ride I might leave it there. I feel uncomfortable now, I need my bike to be reliable, Any one have these issues ? My bike has 50 k highway miles. I do my own oil and filters, diff changes. been running the new easter-core Motul oil. If I had a WiFi 911 would it lead me to some codes that relate to starting problems ? The bike has all the options ESA ,ride modes pro,all except shift assist, and hill assist, no keyless option. regular key here.
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Crank, crank, crank, no start
- Thread starter 14gsused
- Start date
Welcome to the forum! When I first began reading, I first thought of the kill switch, one of those simple things. But you got it started and it seems to start reliably...for now. I can't help too much with all that electrickery going on!! Maybe someone near you has a GS911 just to see if that helps.
As for bump starting, I think it would be better to drop the clutch in a higher gear, like 4th or 5th. There is so much mechanical advantage over the rear end in 1st gear and that's why the tire slid on the ground. That could help the next time.
As for bump starting, I think it would be better to drop the clutch in a higher gear, like 4th or 5th. There is so much mechanical advantage over the rear end in 1st gear and that's why the tire slid on the ground. That could help the next time.
alegerlotz
Member
Check the connection of the wires to the throttle. Is the connector pushed all the way in? People have talked about odd behavior when this connection is loose. Since you've mentioned throttle issues already, this is the first thing I would double check.
Good Luck!
alegerlotz
Member
is it fixed?
I think its ok now, nothing but a smooth ride to work. I restarted several times last night before riding home. $ 207 for new BMW battery. I did not have to reset anything. time or date. After I ride 40 miles then stop to refuel, that is when it happened the other night. I go about 220 miles between fuel stops. If there is a problem , I will post it here. Thanks to the MOA, and all for sharing your wisdom .
alegerlotz
Member
I was probably the battery that was the culprit, but I'm curious as to whether you checked the connection of the wires at the throttle and whether or not things were loose there as well.
Good you just needed a new battery. The bike will get the time/date from the NAV 5 or 6, I really like this feature.
Jay
roger 04 rt
New member
Earlier you said that the battery dropped from 14.2V to 12.2V when you shut it off. With the new battery installed, what happens now?
Batteries on these new computer devices are important and can be misleading. A battery that looks pretty good may not have enough to satisfy the computer when-
it's cold
there are iffy connections
the charge is low
the starter is not running/turning/functioning at optimum
in some cases, auxiliary driving lights are on at time of start
When the starter button is pushed, there has to be "enough" left in the battery for the computer to "see" around 9.2 volts. The bike may be cranking just fine but using all the battery has just to turn the bike over.
A good example of this would be my TW200. If the battery is low(er) than optimum, the bike will just crank and not start. One kick of the kick-starter and it's off and running.
OM
it's cold
there are iffy connections
the charge is low
the starter is not running/turning/functioning at optimum
in some cases, auxiliary driving lights are on at time of start
When the starter button is pushed, there has to be "enough" left in the battery for the computer to "see" around 9.2 volts. The bike may be cranking just fine but using all the battery has just to turn the bike over.
A good example of this would be my TW200. If the battery is low(er) than optimum, the bike will just crank and not start. One kick of the kick-starter and it's off and running.
OM
pglaves
#13338
BMW has seen fit to downsize batteries in some recent models. My K75 came with a 25 amp hour rated battery. An 18 ah battery was an optional replacement. Voni's F800S was fitted with a 14 ah battery. The amazing thing is that both the G310 and the S1000 bikes come with a 9 (yes, nine) amp hour rated battery. I can't attest to the S1000 bikes but on the G310 bikes there is no margin for error. Don't forget and leave the key on while you fill the fuel tank. If you do, it may well not start. (There is a reason I keep my little Zero Gravity brand lithium iron booster pack in my G310GS.
Note that on a K75 cranking brings one 250cc cylinder to compression at a time. The smaller battery in the 800 twin is bringing 400cc to compression. The tiny battery in the 310 and S1000 bikes is bringing 310 or 250 cc to compression with a battery barely more than 1/3 the cranking capacity of the big battery in the old K75s and half the capacity of the optional smaller K75 battery.
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roamingbeemer
roamingbeemer
Regarding the AH ratings..... WOW...
I just looked the AH ratings up for the 1200 and 1250. They are both only 11.8 AH.
I just looked the AH ratings up for the 1200 and 1250. They are both only 11.8 AH.
pglaves
#13338
Maybe. Since Lithium Iron type batteries can be in much smaller cases and give equal amperage capacity you might find one with higher amp hour capacity that would still fit the limited space for the battery. I don't have any handy cross references. I think if you take the measurements of the current ETX9 battery and then look at the Lithium Iron offerings and their dimensions you might find something that will fit. But it will take some research I haven't done.
