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Another starter noise plus

alke46

Member
Not wanting to hijack another poster's thread, I saw where member eastbay posted about a starter noise and felt compelled to start my own.

My '01 R1100RL was sitting for 3 weeks and when I went to start it up, the starter made a noise which sounded like a metallic breaking something kind of noise. At the same time my headlight went out. Thinking I had a blown fuse, I switched to the high beam and it worked fine, so I ruled out a fuse.

After starting it again and going out for a ride, I noticed the low beam was on, but very dim. So just to be seen, l rode with the high beam on. When I pulled into the garage, I switched from high to low beam and it was hard to see any light at all.

Anybody else had a problem like this? I don't know where to begin tracking the problem and don't know if it is related to the noise I heard from the starter.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Did you check to see if your alternator is charging? Just for kicks, swap the load relief relay with one of the others.

For the cost, my path with starter noises and dragging is replacement. Available drop-in replacement for Valeo starter, under $70 (US$).

Cold weather beats up batteries, and starters and alternator belts.
 
Did you check to see if your alternator is charging? others.

Just for kicks, swap the load relief relay with one of the others.

For the cost, my path with starter noises and dragging is replacement. Available drop-in replacement for Valeo starter, under $70 (US$).

Cold weather beats up batteries, and starters and alternator belts.

huh?

No, I did not check the alternator for charging.

Currently the bike is in Arkansas and I am in Nebraska. I will be there next week and at that time I will check the charging.

Thanks for your input.
 
Just for kicks, swap the load relief relay with one of the others. huh?

No, I did not check the alternator for charging.

The load relief relay turns off the headlight when you start the bike. Then, once started, the lights come back on. I'm just throwing stuff at the wall, but it's easy enough to swap the horn relay with the load relief relay. What if the LRR is doing something wierd?
 
The load relief relay turns off the headlight when you start the bike. Then, once started, the lights come back on. I'm just throwing stuff at the wall, but it's easy enough to swap the horn relay with the load relief relay. What if the LRR is doing something wierd?

Thank you. Are these relays in the fuse panel? I seem to remember seeing some relays in there. Hopefully I can find out which one is the horn relay and which one is the LRR.

I will check it out next week when I go back to Arkansas.
 
Thanks, that will simplify it for me. That will be step #1 in chasing the problem.

edit: I will report back to let everyone know if this is the problem or not.
 
So here is my update. Changing one relay with another did not provide any answers. The headlight is still very dim when it is illuminated. Fortunately, the hi beam is very bright so I can ride with others able to see my light coming at them.

Also the bike is charging OK. At 2000 rpms and above I am seeing 14.02-14.05V

Any other suggestions?
 
So here is my update. Changing one relay with another did not provide any answers. The headlight is still very dim when it is illuminated. Fortunately, the hi beam is very bright so I can ride with others able to see my light coming at them.

Also the bike is charging OK. At 2000 rpms and above I am seeing 14.02-14.05V

Any other suggestions?

Pull the bulb out of its socket and put a voltmeter into the low beam wire connecter. If it's 12+ volts, then replace the bulb. If it's less than 12 volts, then follow the wires back to see where the voltage is getting lost.
 
@m_stock10506 and @Pauls1150

I thank you both for your input but being the dummy I am, I have the bike in Arkansas and all my needed tools to work on it are in Nebraska.
So excuse my ignorance, but my headlight issue will have to wait until I return to Ark. I'm going back to Ne. on Tuesday and will probably be coming back to Ark. in 3-4 weeks.

So this thread will take a nap but I do have some good starting points to correct the issue.

I will post updates as they happen.
 
So here's the update. I got lucky and determined the low beam is the culprit. On the test bench, the high beam works but not the low.
So now I am wondering if this light can be purchased at an auto parts store, or is it specific to BMW?
My luck says it is specific and BMW wants about $400 for it.:blush
 
So here's the update. I got lucky and determined the low beam is the culprit. On the test bench, the high beam works but not the low.
So now I am wondering if this light can be purchased at an auto parts store, or is it specific to BMW?
My luck says it is specific and BMW wants about $400 for it.:blush

I am pretty sure that your bike uses a normal H4 halogen bulb. It generally cross references to a 9003 bulb found at most any auto parts store. They come in high zoot bright ones with short life, and some with lesser lumens but longer life. I bought one at NAPA for about $9, but they are more typically priced about $20 and up. Pick your poison!
 
Is there anything "specific" to the headlight on the RL? The complete headlight assembly is about $400, but if you can change the individual bulbs, H4 halogen is correct.

There are a few other threads in the Forum about what puts out the good light and what lives longer; do a Search.
 
As already said, H4 is the correct bulb. Don't be lured into getting a "higher output" bulb. The wiring used there and the plastic parts holding the bulb will not react kindly to the additional heat of a high watt bulb. Be gentle, the plastic is already 20 years old and may already be somewhat brittle and easy to crack.

It's a standard H4, there's a spring clip that holds the bulb in place once you disconnect the wire harness connection. The opening is designed so the bulb should only fit one way.
 
And keep yer dirty greasy mitts off the glass! Use gloves or a tissue, so there's less possibility of creating "hot spots" on the glass.

NAPA has higher-temperature H4 sockets, if yours is about to fall apart.
 
Got the replacement bulb tonight at Auto Zone for $16.99. I do believe this is the answer to my situation, so now when I go back to Arkansas, I will install the bulb and all will be right with the world again. The socket that plugs into the light looks to be OK so will not need to replace that.

Thanks for your good guidance.
 
As already said, H4 is the correct bulb. Don't be lured into getting a "higher output" bulb. The wiring used there and the plastic parts holding the bulb will not react kindly to the additional heat of a high watt bulb. Be gentle, the plastic is already 20 years old and may already be somewhat brittle and easy to crack.

It's a standard H4, there's a spring clip that holds the bulb in place once you disconnect the wire harness connection. The opening is designed so the bulb should only fit one way.

Yes, avoid higher wattage bulbs ...

... but there are many higher brightness bulbs of same wattage that work great and without problems. (And they aren't illegal.)

Yes, do not lose that spring clip ... it's not a separately sold part.
 
Update to the original post: the bulb replacement was the issue. Got a new bulb and upon returning to Arkansas, I installed it and the headlight is now working fine. Sorry for the delay in posting the result, but as I stated earlier, the bike resides in Arkansas and my primary residence is in Nebraska.
Thanks for reading and responding.
 
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