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A Lap of Iowa plus 2K more

J

JWHITE518

Guest
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Introduction
ItÔÇÖs all Mike KneeboneÔÇÖs fault. My big summer motorcycle ride was inspired by the creation of a new Iron Butt Association certificate earlier this year. In a twist on the standard SaddleSore 1000, a rider can now complete a route that stays all within the boundaries of a single state. They would then get recognized for completing a Same State 1000. Designs were published for a series of pins, one for each state. It didnÔÇÖt take long for me to realize that this was a good excuse to turn one of our regular family visits to Iowa into a motorcycle ride, so I set out to design my route. It was an interesting ride that took me all around the borders of the state and ended at my in-lawÔÇÖs home in Des Moines. I would get to see a lot of the state that I had never seen before and probably never would again. However, I had no idea when IÔÇÖd be able to ride it. The stars fell into place when we began discussing the idea to visit the world-famous Iowa State Fair in August. This was my chance! So it ended up that wife and daughter (Sally and Claire) took a plane while I rode my motorcycle. On the way out to Iowa I documented 2000 miles in 48 hours, so that at the end IÔÇÖd have earned a SaddleSore 3000 along with my Same-State 1000.


Day 1 ÔÇô SaddleSore 3000
I obtained my starting fuel receipt at 5:37 AM in San Leandro and rolled onto the highway headed east toward Sacramento. Even though it was a weekday I was early enough to miss any heavy rush hour traffic. Once I got past Auburn and started climbing into the Sierras it began to get cool. The sky was clear and the ride was gorgeous through the mountains. I paused at the Donner Lake overlook just to take it in. I descended into Reno, and before I knew it I was in the Nevada desert. It only took me three hours to get from home to Reno.

The stretch from Reno to Salt Lake City can easily be dismissed as a boring 500-mile slog through the desert. If youÔÇÖre in a car it probably is. YouÔÇÖve got the A/C on and the stereo cranked up, and youÔÇÖre just putting in the time. Your surroundings are inconsequential. ThereÔÇÖs not much to look at, really. On a motorcycle itÔÇÖs another story entirely. Because youÔÇÖre not in an enclosed cage, you feel the heat of the day. You feel the gust of every breeze. You hear the wind, the hum of your tires, the roar and rattles of the motor beneath you. You smell the desert sage, the diesel exhaust of the semi-trucks, and the saline aroma of northwestern Utah. Every slight mountain pass is a thrill. I suppose it was a long day crossing that desert but it seemed to pass quickly. It was about 4:30 PM when I joined the rush hour exodus from Mormon Central.

At this point I had to work hard. Traffic was heavy but moving quickly. Since I was on unfamiliar roads, was a little tired, and it was hot, I was extra careful and alert. Traffic didnÔÇÖt really ease up until I-15 narrowed back to two lanes, which was considerably south of SLC. I hadnÔÇÖt planned to stop until Salina but I felt I needed a break so I took one in Scipio. I was well ahead of my anticipated timeline. Taking US-50 through ÔÇ£downtown ScipioÔÇØ I sure was glad to be off the interstate. The ride was pretty but not long enough; too soon I was in Salina. I caught a look at MomÔÇÖs Caf?® and hopped onto I-70 eastward. Running down the canyon east of Salina was such a pleasure. Picture this: itÔÇÖs the end of the day, the low sun is casting its golden light on the rock formations, the curves sweep out ahead of me, thereÔÇÖs no traffic to speak of. I have hundreds of miles behind me and still more hundreds ahead of me. It doesnÔÇÖt get much better than this for a long distance rider.

It had been totally dark for about an hour by the time I found my exit at Grand Junction and headed for a fuel receipt to close out the dayÔÇÖs ride. It was 9:27 PM. LetÔÇÖs see, factor in the time change, can this be right? I rode 1100 miles in 15 hours? Holy cow, thatÔÇÖs my best time ever for a SaddleSore 1000. I suppose itÔÇÖs possible that I may have violated the speed laws in a few states. However I attribute my record run to not stopping except for fuel, and then staying focused on efficiency while stopped. Feeling great about my kick-ass ride and the great start of a long trip, I settled in for the night.

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Day 2 ÔÇô SaddleSore 3000
I got back on the road after a not-so-great nightÔÇÖs sleep. (Note to self: DonÔÇÖt get a room at the front of the motel near the office. Too much noise made by the late arrivals.) Immediately east of Grand Junction thereÔÇÖs a nice stretch of I-70 that curves along beside the Colorado River. I did my best to enjoy the ride but it was tough, what with the morning traffic, frequent blips of the radar detector, and sun right in my eyes. I passed the towns of Parachute and Rifle, and then was looking at the familiar town of Glenwood Springs, which is the cutoff to where my brother-in-law and nephew live. I will be stopping for a visit next week on my way home, but today I have other plans.

I continued up Glenwood Canyon, where the speed limit drops and the road twists and narrows. ItÔÇÖs a nicely engineered double-decker road. The steep red canyon walls frame the river and highway. Fishermen in waders dot the banks. Then the road opens up into the high country of the mid-Rockies and its ritzy ski resorts. At Silverthorne I gazed over at the shopping center where we had stopped on a trip when Claire was barely one year old. The happy memory made me remember how much I love my family. Those feelings really sustain me when IÔÇÖm on the road all alone. Note to self: DonÔÇÖt Get Killed On Motorcycle.

My bike powered up the steep grade to the Eisenhower Tunnel, blowing past the struggling trucks, and then I made the long and curvy descent to Denver. Without any heavy traffic I was soon through Denver and presto, the Rockies were in my mirrors and the Great Plains were in my windshield. The rest of the day was a mindless slog through eastern Colorado on I-76 and a big chunk of Nebraska on I-80. All that stuff I said about the wonders of motorcycling through vast open spaces? Bah! Nebraska sucks. And whatÔÇÖs the deal with that gigantic archway that crosses over the interstate at Kearney? ItÔÇÖs some kind of tourist attraction. Some day if IÔÇÖm interested enough IÔÇÖll stop and check it out, but I donÔÇÖt know if IÔÇÖll ever be interested enough. The town of Lincoln, Nebraska had highway construction and cops, Omaha had a traffic jam, and then I was riding across the Missouri River.

Iowa! Oh how I love to be in Iowa. Instantly the roadside terrain changed into rolling hills with cornfields. I wasnÔÇÖt bored any more. I was in the best state in the land. At my fuel stop in Adair I called the folks to say I was in the state, but wouldnÔÇÖt be stopping in to visit them tonight. Mom wished me luck on tomorrowÔÇÖs ride, and promised to follow along on Star-Traxx. As the sun went down I rode the rest of the way eastward to Des Moines, then sliced southward on I-35 to complete the remaining few miles down to Osceola.

As I rode into town I passed the obligatory town square with teenagers hanging out. Osceola is a decent-sized town that seems to have a healthy main street. ItÔÇÖs probably helped by the big casino that dominates the town from the interstate side. After cruising the town I went back and checked in to the Blue Haven Motel, which I had identified ahead of time with mapping software and Internet searches. The innkeeper was a friendly Indian man with a wife and young son hanging around the office while we chatted. He gladly signed my start witness form for tomorrowÔÇÖs ride, and assigned me a room way at the back. As I settled in to sleep before the next dayÔÇÖs big ride, the hot-rodding teens gunned their motors down the main drag. Ah, small town America!

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More to come...
 
A Lap of Iowa plus 2K more - Part 2

Day 3 ÔÇô SaddleSore 3000 and Iowa 1000
I awoke to greet the day I had been anticipating for months. Instead of the clear skies and hot weather IÔÇÖd enjoyed so far on the trip, this morning was overcast and foggy. My starting gas receipt in Osceola said 5:57 AM. The sun was just beginning its daily journey across the sky. The dim light was made dimmer by the foggy haze. I lit out on Highway 34 to the east towards Glenwood, which was to mark the southwestern corner of my route. It was really neat to ride through the lonely farms and fields with the billowy gray fog dominating my view. Since this was a Saturday I didnÔÇÖt see much traffic.

After getting a receipt in Glenwood I merged onto I-29 north to traverse the only interstate segment of the day. This was where I could run quickly to put some time in the bank for later, if necessary. I rode through Council Bluffs, which is just across the river from Omaha. The road got a little tricky but I just followed the signs and my GPS screen. Then it was smooth sailing until Sioux City. Here is where I-29 crosses into South Dakota, so itÔÇÖs also where I got onto a smaller highway. US-75 took me up to my northwest corner, Rock Rapids. On the way there I rode through LeMars, the home of Blue Bunny Ice Cream. According to the Blue Bunny website, ÔÇ£BLUE BUNNY?« is made in Le Mars, Iowa: The Ice Cream Capital of the World. More ice cream is made in Le Mars than any other place on the planet!ÔÇØ Wow!


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After a receipt and a pause for a snack in Rock Rapids, I headed eastward on Highway 9. This road would take me all the way across the northern edge of the state. Many of the signs said, ÔÇ£Some town in Minnesota, 15 miles.ÔÇØ When I arrived in Spirit Lake I stopped to shop for souvenirs. Sally and family used to take their summer vacations here, and at nearby Lake Okoboji. It was still overcast and windy, so it didnÔÇÖt seem very resort-like to me that day. Traffic in the area was heavy, so I quickly settled for a refrigerator magnet and got back on track.

As I continued east, the clouds finally burned off to give me a bright and clear view of the humming engine of Iowa commerce: corn and beans growing. And growing. And growing. And growing. I saw a lot of fields. Oh, and I smelled a lot of hog lots too. They keep the hogs inside so I didnÔÇÖt see a single swine. But they were there, my nose can testify to that.

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As I passed the sign for Lime Springs I said a silent hello to a new Internet friend who lives there. If I hadnÔÇÖt been on a schedule I would have detoured for a visit. In Decorah I exited Highway 9 and got on Old Stage Road. I wouldnÔÇÖt have found this road if it hadnÔÇÖt been for my mapping software. But am I glad for that! It was filled with roller-coaster hills and turns. I could have been on any of CaliforniaÔÇÖs awesome motorcycle roads (except for the cornfields.) Sadly, the twisties ran out too soon and I rejoined the highway for the final stretch into Lansing, the northeast corner of my route.

There was a Fish Festival going on in Lansing so the town was very crowded. Most of the motorcycle riders were riding free on American iron. (Translation: they werenÔÇÖt wearing any helmets to obstruct the unmuffled roar of the illegal exhaust pipes on their Harleys.) At my gas stop I was engaged by three riders who were interested in my bikeÔÇÖs long distance setup. An extra fuel tank in place of the passenger seat tends to pique peoplesÔÇÖ curiosity. I did my best to convince them that Iron Butt riding was not insane. Seeing that I wasnÔÇÖt making any headway, I got back on the road. Nice guys, though.

Then I got to ride south along the rolling Mississippi. The road signs proclaim this to be the Great River Road, and I agree. Wish I had stopped for a photo. In McGregor and Guttenberg there were more memories of an earlier family trip. Then I was in Dyersville, the location of the ÔÇ£Field of DreamsÔÇØ movie site. Since I was still running well ahead of schedule, I stopped in. In an odd coincidence of timing, just the night before the place had been set up to be an outdoor movie theatre. Kevin Costner himself had been there. First his rock band played a set, then they screened the film. The woman at the gift shop told me there had been 6,000 people there. The only evidence today was the trampled grass in the outfield, and a parked semi-trailer in the driveway. Kids were playing pickup ball while their parents took photos.

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Back on the highway I headed south. I took some back roads to avoid the metropolis that is Dubuque. This was a pretty stretch with the cornfields following the contours of rolling hills. The photo doesnÔÇÖt really capture it, but I tried.


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Highway 61 south was a wide, four-lane affair that was sometimes bisected by a sunken ditch. I was feeling a little tired, and the sun was starting to go down. It was the afternoon sag. Nothing to do but keep going. Next town of note was Burlington. A friend from work is from there so I had a special interest to stop for a look. With just a hint of pink still remaining in the dusky sky I took a shot from the bluff overlooking the dramatic bridge to Illinois. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the building I was parked next to was MartiniÔÇÖs Grille, the restaurant she had recommended for their world famous Chicken Lips. I wonder if they also sell Lizard Hips.

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I needed a serious break here but I didnÔÇÖt think I was presentable enough for MartiniÔÇÖs, so I rode down to the waterfront and got a turkey san from Blimpies. The only consolation for my fast food meal was that I got to hear a pretty good blues band playing from the deck of the bar across the street. Made a call to the folks in Des Moines just to say I was doing fine, and then it was back onboard.

In the dark I found my way back to 61 and took the short stretch southward to Fort Madison. This was my southeast corner, added to the route when I realized I needed a few more miles to make 1000. At the gas station there were an incredible amount of bugs flying around the pumps. I asked the girl behind the counter if it was always this way and she said yes, usually it was worse. Oy! I cleaned my windshield and my helmet visor and got ready for the nighttime segment of my journey. I rode east on Highway 2 for a few miles, then north to pick up 34. It was really dark, there wasnÔÇÖt much traffic, and my auxiliary lights were aimed a little too high, so I stopped in front of someoneÔÇÖs barn to re-aim them. The adjustment did the trick. Funny, the bugs had disappeared. Maybe that poor girl needs to get out of that gas station.

The rest of the journey wasnÔÇÖt very notable. It was night so I couldnÔÇÖt enjoy the scenery. Highway 34 westbound had lots of construction zones to keep my attention. At one point I stopped between towns for a little break, and to try to see the sky from the country. With the motor stopped and my helmet off, it should have been dead quiet. But no, this is the Midwest and there are lots of bugs that make lots of noise. I started to adjust to the place and time, and to just enjoy being there. Then a car came by, passed me, slowed, turned around, and came back to see if I was OK. I said yes, thanked them for stopping, and sent them on their way. I decided that if I was going to have a quiet break I would need to get off the highway. These Iowans are just too darn nice.

At one crossroads there was a four way stop. A car coming from the north turned right just in front of me. Usually I like to be in front, but this night I was happy to have someone to follow. He would scare away any deer that wanted to kill me. Fortunately he was going at just the right pace for me, so we rode together for many miles. Eventually, just before Osceola he turned off and I was on my own again. But this was the home stretch. I had that ÔÇ£headed for the barnÔÇØ energy. It was kind of weird riding past the gas station where I had started this ride many hours earlier. But it was a good kind of weird. IÔÇÖd ridden 1000 miles since 5:57 AM. What had they done?

I got on I-35 north and followed my GPS to Valley Junction in Des Moines where there was a 24 hour gas station with good receipts. Thanks, Dad, for scouting that out for me. It was 1:37 AM. I had officially finished my Iowa 1000 and my SaddleSore 3000. It was Miller Time! In five minutes I was at the folksÔÇÖ house. Sally and Claire were there sleeping soundly, as they had flown in earlier that day. I had really enjoyed the past three days of riding, and now I was ready to relax with my family. Iowa State Fair, here we come!

The funny thing is, the fancy Iowa pin depicted at the top of this story doesnÔÇÖt even exist. The IBA says that some day all the state pins will be manufactured, and ride finishers will have the opportunity to purchase one. For now all I get is a lousy certificate. Oh yeah, and the memories of a great three days. ItÔÇÖs all Mike KneeboneÔÇÖs fault.

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No, I did NOT ride I-90 in Minnesota.


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The whole shebang.
 
cool ride

I am originally from Iowa (from Leon, 20 miles south of Osceola) and I truly enjoyed your report. I haven't lived in Iowa for nearly 30 years, but I have ridden to most of the places you went to on your Iowa 1000. Iowa is an under appreciated motorcycing destination. Congrats on your LD ride accomplishments.
 
Jerry, great report, what a ride! You were only 10 miles away from free room and board when you turned West at Eldridge, IA.

Next time your in the area contact me, there's some really great ridding out here, you'll just have to slow down to "savor the ride" or .... maybe for me to catch up.
 
bluestune said:
Jerry, great report, what a ride! You were only 10 miles away from free room and board when you turned West at Eldridge, IA.

Next time your in the area contact me, there's some really great ridding out here, you'll just have to slow down to "savor the ride" or .... maybe for me to catch up.


Hey Blues, I had some serious guilt not looking you up while I was out there. But I had my agenda and wanted to stick to it. I only had 3 days in DSM with the family before heading back home. Next time I'm out there I'll be sure to give you a shout.
 
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