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'95 r1100rs

I really like these bikes. I have a '94 with 197k on it, and I had an 1150 that I put 86k on.

Versus your Airhead, it's a heavier bike, and probably a bit slower steering at parking lot speeds. Otherwise, there's nothing about the RS, except the nostalgia, that's not better. More power, better (much better) brakes, leans more, requires less maintenance, takes modern rubber that holds the road better, and on and on. This is no gummikuh!

However, like every series of BMW bikes, this has its potential foibles. Just as Airheads can have problems with diode boards and rotors -- though not all do, of course -- so the RS has some well known issues. Hunting or surging at small throttle openings and a couple transmission issues are the ones that come to mind immediately. The ABS is very sensitive to the condition of the battery and will fail its self check if the battery is at all low; ride it for a couple minutes, then "reboot" the bike and usually the ABS will work fine.

The RS is very adjustable to fit your ergos. The bars come with two adjustments and the seat with three. I have mine set with the bars back and turned in, and with the seat always on the highest setting, even though I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam. I have a Rick Mayer seat on mine, I couldn't stand the stock seat. I also put a set of Ohlins on it at about 50k miles.

My bike is essentially stock otherwise, and I still find it a joy to ride. I've got it stored in Germany and it loves the Autobahn, though it guzzles the gas at 130mph. It also loves the Alps; I was just there this past summer and I put 2k miles on it in two weeks.

My bike has not been completely trouble free over the years and miles; I have probably put $5k into it in repairs. I blew up the engine at 180k miles while cruising the Autobahn at 110mph (read the story here); I had to buy a transmission 50k miles ago and a driveshaft 40k miles ago. I got a new RT motor for about $2400 and the tranny was about $1500.

You'll note, however, that it took 150k before things needed "freshening", and I have never babied this bike. It has done Keith Code and Reg Pridmore track days, 3 days at the famous Nuerburgring in Germany, and generally a lot of canyon carving.
 
OK. I didn't notice skipping or hunting when i rode the bike. frankly, i wasn't looking for it and could have missed it. the flashing abs lights had me distracted. i'll ride it again.

the seller, meanwhile, says the gearbox is fine. but he conceded that on occasion, when he shifts from neutral to first, the neutral light will remain on. he said he puts it back in neutral and shifts to first again and the light goes out.

should this raise concern?
 
the neutral light will remain on. he said he puts it back in neutral and shifts to first again and the light goes out.
should this raise concern?

No. The neutral light switch is a very common maintenance item on these bikes. Sooner or later, they all get replaced. Replacing the switch is actually cheap and easy *IF* the swing arm has been removed first. Many owners just wait until the backend of the bike has to be disassembled for some more important reason and do the switch then.
 
is the swingarm easy to remove?

The swingarm is not easy to remove. If you are a capable DIY'er you can do it but it will be a 8 hour job (less if you've done it before). Nothing tricky about it, just time consuming. As stated above, most people will wait to they need to remove the swingarm for some other reason (clutch, spline lube, leaking seal) to replace the neutral switch.
 
more good news!

look, i make considerably less than $100K a year and support a small family. do i have any business owning this bike?
 
more good news!

look, i make considerably less than $100K a year and support a small family. do i have any business owning this bike?

That's a very legitimate question!

You say the bike has 30k on it, that it doesn't surge and it doesn't have the "skip" in the transmission. These things run a very long time and are generally very reliable. 30k is just not a lot of miles for this model.

But any used bike can have troubles. You now have a pretty good idea of what those can be. Any purchase has some aspect of a gamble to it, but this doesn't seem like it's very worrying.

If you were going to buy your R100/7 again, how much would that cost? And what would the list of potential problems look like for it? (Diode board, rotor, top end renewal, transmission output shaft bearing failure, neutral switch replacement, master cylinder replacement, starter rebuild/replacement...) Sounds scary but you know that you're not going to have to do all that to one bike. But you might have to do one or two of those things... but maybe nothing at all.
 
'95 Rs

Blue:

Some of the early oiler transmissions can go long distances before they pack in, and I think they usually give you some warning.

Have a look in the Bikers Oracle RS site and do a transmission search in there; there's lots of info. You can do an advanced search here as well and you'll pull up lots of threads.

They're great bikes. You won't regret buying it.

Rinty
 
The swingarm is not easy to remove. If you are a capable DIY'er you can do it but it will be a 8 hour job (less if you've done it before).
That's a bit much. I'm well practiced but I have to think that for the first time, if the person has read about the procedure and has the tools and materials ready, it would be half that. If I were to simply replace the neutral switch I think it'd be about an hour and a half or two hours. 5 minutes for the wheel, ten minutes each for the FD and swingarm, some cleaning time, switch replacement, and the same for reassembly. So double that and you get four.
 
I have a 96.

Great bike and the 1100 has more guts than the 1150.


It is a great bike in the corners and will fly down the highway/interstate with any other bike usually following.

It is a good ride and dependable.

Great price too by the way.
 
That's a bit much. I'm well practiced but I have to think that for the first time, if the person has read about the procedure and has the tools and materials ready, it would be half that. If I were to simply replace the neutral switch I think it'd be about an hour and a half or two hours. 5 minutes for the wheel, ten minutes each for the FD and swingarm, some cleaning time, switch replacement, and the same for reassembly. So double that and you get four.

Anton, you are right. I was thinking of having to remove the transmission also, but this is not necessary for the neutral switch (although I'd be inclined to lube the splines and check on the oil seals and clutch while I was that far into it.
 
Pic looks fantastic

Nice, clean bike! It looks like it has been well maintained. You'll be glad you bought it. I've got an R1100R (1997) that is fantastic. Had it a year and it's been great. I paid $4K for it with 7500 miles on it last August. I've doubled the mileage already. Don't fret -- you made a good move.
 
NICE looking bike! You'll enjoy it for sure. I have been riding my 94 R1100RS since I got it in Oct 94, and I still enjoy it immensely every time I ride it. 13 years and 125,000 miles with the same bike means we were meant for each other. Its not stock anymore, but each little upgrade I make to it makes it seem like a new bike to me. Enjoy your ride!!
 
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