95 gs won’t start after charging battery?

[stevenrankin]

Spark test warning

The plugs when removed for spark testing MUST be properly grounded. If they are not, it could cause damage to the ignition control unit under the gas tank.
The bean can is pretty simple and I doubt there is a problem with it.
If you have enough amperage and voltage to turn the bike over, you have enough to fire the coils and create spark. IF the low voltage was the problem then how would we bump/kick start bikes with dead batteries?

I KNOW you can start a bike with a dead battery because I have pushed the hell out of my 84 R80RT on more than one occasion when the battery gave up the ghost.

So, I would look for power to the coils and such.

As to testing the ignition control device under the gas tank, I have not a clue as to how to test it. If you can swap it out for another one that would be cool, just remember to ground the spark plugs when testing for spark.

Maybe someone else has a way to test the ignition controller? St

 

[ebeeby]

My rule for troubleshooting an electrical problem on any motorcycle is that the first step is to throw the battery in the Mississippi river.

Just my 2 cents, YMMV

 

[guenner]

The ignition system is not fused. Power for the ignition system (ignition module, 'bean can', coils) comes from the kill switch. If your break light works - it is connected to the kill switch via a fuse - it is an indication that the kill switch and therefore the ignition system (should) have power from the battery.

Now why did you need a booster to start the bike in the first place?

Was the bike stored for a long time? Or, did this all happen with the bike starting and running just fine before?

Btw. a battery without the motor running should never show a voltage above 13.0V when not immediately charged.

/Guenther

 

[6322]

My rule for troubleshooting an electrical problem on any motorcycle is that the first step is to throw the battery in the Mississippi river.

Just my 2 cents, YMMV

Sounds like Anthony Hopkins line in "Worlds Fastest Indian", here said he had to get rid of the lead brick, "we'll give it the old Spanish Archer, the heave ho"
Does sound strange though. Definitely got gas and petcocks are on? Check float bowls. Eliminate the simple/ inexpensive first. Battery isn't simple or inexpensie to replace but it would be worth taking out and having tested. Also if you charge with the 10% charger as mentioned, be sure to disconnect the battery ground.

 

[tbounds]

Plugs grounded

I jump started bike because it had been setting for a few months and battery was dead .
I have plugs grounded even tried new plugs . I will check the brake light and the voltage to the coils. If I have 12 volts coming to the coil what should it read coming out of each nipple to plug wires.
Does power go to coils first or bean can first?

 

[20774]

Snowbum has a section on testing the beancan and Hall effect sensors:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/ignition.htm

Look for the section titled (about 1/3 down the page) "Problems, testing, etc., ....the stock BMW/Bosch electronic ignition canisters"

 

[tbounds]

Still no fire

I checked drain on battery with key on 12.9 with keynoff 12.9
Also checked for fire with ignition on and switching killnswitch off and on no fire to plug grounded to cylinder .
Does this meawhat?
How do you check coils to see if they are bad?

 

[omega man]

I checked drain on battery with key on 12.9 with keynoff 12.9
Also checked for fire with ignition on and switching killnswitch off and on no fire to plug grounded to cylinder .
Does this meawhat?
How do you check coils to see if they are bad?

Check the voltage while the stater is engaged That is the important reading.
OM

 

[20774]

One check on coils is to use the leads of an ohmmeter, plugging one lead into the left high tension connector and the other lead into the right high tension connector. You should see something like 20K ohms, which breaks down to 5K for each high tension connector, and 5K head for the coils.

 

[guenner]

When you turn ignition on, does the headlight come on? If so then the battery voltage should slowly drop. Is that what you see?

The 'bean can' (BC) gets its power (ground,~12V) from the ignition control module (ICM) under the tank. At the point of ignition the BC drops the ~9V signal to the ICM close to 0V. With the signal low from the BC the ICM disconnects the ground from the coil which generates the high voltage to the spark plugs.

I assume you did the test with the spark plugs off and grounded and checking for a spark when you run the starter, right? Not even a tiny spark?

Also you checked the voltage at the battery while running the starter with plugs installed. How low did the voltage drop?

I also assume that you know the bike was running before it was put into storage. Do you?

/Guenther

 

[tbounds]

Headlight doesn’t fade

Bike ran day before I put charger to battery 2 days ago.
I haven’t checked the voltage while trying to start engine but it turns very fast for long periods and absolutely no spark from properly grounded plug.

 

[stevenrankin]

A good read

Snowbum has a section on testing the beancan and Hall effect sensors:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/ignition.htm


Reading this will be a very good step in the right direction. Yes, it is a bit long but well worth reading.

Oh yes, once a friend had a bike fail to run and found the little wire between the coils, i beleve it is a ground wire was broken. A very simple fix and easy to check.

 

[tbounds]

read it all too

Snowbum has a section on testing the beancan and Hall effect sensors:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/ignition.htm


Reading this will be a very good step in the right direction. Yes, it is a bit long but well worth reading.

Oh yes, once a friend had a bike fail to run and found the little wire between the coils, i beleve it is a ground wire was broken. A very simple fix and easy to check.

I have read it several times its hard for me to understand it all . I am trying to figure out how to test the single coil twin tower , OHM meter , do i place probes in one in each of towers for readings? ignition on or off. what should reading be if coil is good and what it bad?
I am bad when it come to electrical .
I can't even see where the lead from battery/can comes into coil . It looks like I need to remove it to check it? I see two allen bolts under backbone I am thinking I need to remove those to get to lead to coil.
should I remove neg battery cable before i start removing coil?
I wish there was a video it helps much more than text.
thanks for all your help.

 

[20774]

I mentioned how to check the coil...ohmmeter leads in each of the spark plug cap. What's that value?

 

[manicmechanic]

Where are yo located? Are you a member of the Airheads? Try contacting a local Airhead or even your state Airmarshal for more hands-on help. Trying to troubleshoot by remote-control is difficult at best, especially since we can't see what you actually have.

 

[tbounds]

question about high tension leads

I mentioned how to check the coil...ohmmeter leads in each of the spark plug cap. What's that value?

When you say check high tension connector with ohm meter are you referring to the nipples the plug wires attach to on coil?
what do you ground to? with the coil mounted on bike i can't get to the input for the coil I guess I will have to remove coil to gain access to input for coil ?

 

[tbounds]

Mississippi

Where are yo located? Are you a member of the Airheads? Try contacting a local Airhead or even your state Airmarshal for more hands-on help. Trying to troubleshoot by remote-control is difficult at best, especially since we can't see what you actually have.

Yes i am a member of airheads not a very big group .

 

[20774]

When you say check high tension connector with ohm meter are you referring to the nipples the plug wires attach to on coil?
what do you ground to? with the coil mounted on bike i can't get to the input for the coil I guess I will have to remove coil to gain access to input for coil ?

No need to remove the coil. Engine not running, pull the spark plug caps. Turn your ohmmeter to be able read at lead 30K ohms. Stick one lead of the meter into the spot where the spark plug nipple went on the left side; do the same thing with the lead to the right side. That reads the resistance of the entire system. I believe it should read around 20K ohms. Be sure you have good contact with the meter leads.

 

[20774]

Yes i am a member of airheads not a very big group .

The Air Marshall for Mississippi is Max Dean in Union. I have an email address for him if you wanted to contact him.

There is also the Anonymous Book and you might be able to find someone nearby.

 

[tbounds]

will try it question again.

No need to remove the coil. Engine not running, pull the spark plug caps. Turn your ohmmeter to be able read at lead 30K ohms. Stick one lead of the meter into the spot where the spark plug nipple went on the left side; do the same thing with the lead to the right side. That reads the resistance of the entire system. I believe it should read around 20K ohms. Be sure you have good contact with the meter leads.

I sent email to list to all of the airheads i knew from book in my area of state.
I am sorry to ask this again , but to make sure i am doing this correctly .
I remove the both plug wires from coil , stick ends of each probe red and black into opposite towers of coil where the plug wires connect to the coil .
with the Ohmmeter set for 30K ohms the meter should read 20K if it's good.
this is all with ignition off correct?