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2007 R1200RT "Died" while going down the road

bkfist

New member
I was on a ride Saturday, about 20 miles from home, I had just gone through a few curves and came to a long straight section of road (long for around here, maybe 3/4 mile. I opened it up for 10 or 15 seconds, in 6th gear, and probably got up to around 90 mph, I closed up the throttle to start slowing down again for the next corner and noticed I didn't have any power, the engine seemed to have died. I pulled over and the bike would not start. It would turn of fine, but wouldn't fire. Bike had about 6.5 gallons of gasoline. I tried starting it 4 or 5 times with 6-7 second bursts of the starter. I turned off the ignition for 10 or 15 minutes, tried starting it again and it fired up, but would not idle well. I could give it gas into the 2000-3000 rpm range and it would run without missing a single stroke, but when it idled down it would start to sputter. If you left it idle for 1/2 or 1 second the engine would die and not start again.
Wife went home and got bike trailer (She was on her own bike) and when she returned, it started up and idled OK long enough to ride the bike up the ramp and onto the trailer. After a minute or so the idle became rough and the engine died.
Someone in the group had suggested bad battery/charging system not supplying enough power to fuel injection, but bike turned over solidly for at least a dozen start attempts with out running for more than 1 minute or so on the times it did start, not nearly enough time to recharge the battery. No warning lights or indicators lights on the dash.
Got home, put battery on battery tender and after 20 minutes it was showing 80% charged, and within an hour it was showing fully charged. "Resting" voltage was 12.8 volts, after turning on ignition for a minute or two the voltage dropped to around 12 volts. Started the bike and with the bike running, the voltage is showing in the 14.6 volt range.
I've read about the fuel pump controller, looked through the radio control cutout and my FPC is silver, not the newer black color.
Does this sound like the controller, or the fuel pump? Wouldn't the controller just fail, and not restart after a short period of time, or is it common for the controller to be an intermittent issue?
I'd rather not spend $120 on the FPC and THEN turn around and have to buy the fuel pump.

Thanks for any help in advance!
 
Sounds like the controller is going out. Pull the controller and run a jumper direct from the battery to the fuel pump. Since you are just testing at home, I would just run something very temporary, and avoid cutting off the connectors. Just see if the bike starts normally.
 
At the moment it's starting "normally" and idling OK... I hate intermittent problems!
Do failed units show signs of overheating, or anything else? If I could get it to not run or idle again, then I'd pull the controller and jump power to it directly... hmmm
I also see that at least one place is selling just the bosch fuel pump for well under half of what it's listing for in the BMW catalogs, I suppose I could try the controller, if it turns out to be the pump, it will still be less than just the pump directly from BMW.
 
Just to confirm, it was the Fuel Pump Controller electronics. (With the storm, here and all, my dealer just got the part in yesterday and I put it in today. Everything is working great (while I had it open I started it on the new controller, then switched back to the old controller, and it stalled out 10 seconds after I started the motor, as soon as the fuel that was pressurized was used up, put the new controller back in and all was good again.)
Now to make an "emergency" cable out of the old connector ends to keep with me "just in case".
 
I just saw this thread.
What you had was what I would call a classic case of fuel pump controller.
The GS911 only gives you a possible fuel pump circuit code, or something. Not real specific. Mine went out in Mexico. So that's where I did my learning about them.
Make your old one into a bypass.
They sell commercially made ones, and people tout them. But I don't. They all plug into your accessory outlet. And thus have to run the cable outside the fairing.
With your bypass, it will run under the fairing. And shut off when you shut the key off.
And, if you make it and carry it, you will never need it. Unless it's on someone else's bike.
dc
 
Just to confirm, it was the Fuel Pump Controller electronics. (With the storm, here and all, my dealer just got the part in yesterday and I put it in today. Everything is working great (while I had it open I started it on the new controller, then switched back to the old controller, and it stalled out 10 seconds after I started the motor, as soon as the fuel that was pressurized was used up, put the new controller back in and all was good again.)
Now to make an "emergency" cable out of the old connector ends to keep with me "just in case".
:thumb
Always nice when a Member finishes up the story.
OM
 
Does anyone have a schematic or pictures explaining how to make the controller bypass?

There was one on bmwsporttouringforums. I don't know if I can find it. If I can, I will post it here later.
The advantage of making one from the old unit is the wire doesn't need to go outside the fairing, and then into the accessory socket.
dc

Here's the thread and a diagram as to how to make a bypass on the road.
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=765042&page=2
 
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