1986 R80RT - front wheel not turning properly

[C172MyP51]

My newish-to-me R80 has a front wheel that only spins about a third of a turn when on the center stand. I just assumed it was the front brake grabbing, but after taking it on a 20 minute ride today, I noticed that every part of the brake system was cool to the touch!
I hate to ask, but, what does this mean, and how much is it gonna cost me? hahaha

 

[cseltz]

Maybe time to clean and repack (or replace depending on what you find) the front wheel bearings? i replaced mine and I think the bearings cost around $20 or so (there are 2 per wheel).

 

[20774]

I would try lifting the brake caliper out of the way...I suspect you have some Brembos. That will ensure the brakes aren't the culprit. If the wheel still doesn't turn well, then you're looking at something wrong with the bearings. You don't want the bearings to seize up on your for obvious reasons.

With the caliper out of the way, also try loosening the axle nut...not way loose, but enough to take some of the tension off. Does that make things better? Still would point to a bearing setup problem.

 

[C172MyP51]

I was just reading SnowBum's article about wheel bearings, and it doesn't sound too difficult to replace them.
This was a sort of 'barn find' bike...it has spent a goodly portion of its life sitting, exposed to some elements.

 

[C172MyP51]

 

[C172MyP51]

So looking at the 'triangle' of 3 hex bolts, the top two hold the caliper together, sandwiching the brake pads, am I wrong? So the bottom one holds it onto the front fork? (The Clymer manual has been ordered...in the mail!)

 

[cseltz]

I would think the disc would heat up if the caliper was dragging and your original post mentions that it remains cool to the touch. Have you felt the bearing hub after a ride?

 

[20774]

Based upon what I see, I'd loosen #1 and remove #2 then rotate the caliper up and use a bungie cord to hold it out of the way temporarily. Not sure if the brake lines will let you do that...I see the steel line.

 

[beemerphile]

Based upon what I see, I'd loosen #1 and remove #2 then rotate the caliper up and use a bungie cord to hold it out of the way temporarily. Not sure if the brake lines will let you do that...I see the steel line.

That won't work. You will need to remove both bolts and withdraw the calipers. The hard brake lines will prevent rotating them. Also, as a monolever bike, this bike has sealed wheel bearings, so repacking is not an option, however replacement is straight-forward. Most likely the problem is brake related.

 

[20774]

Lee, I was hesitant about my idea as I suggested. I'm not around these types of front brakes much.

 

[C172MyP51]

ALL of those 8mm bolts were so screwed in so tight I had to get my 16 inch ratchet to loosen them! All of them were this tight, to the point of making noises like I was breaking something when they finally loosened. I backed all of them (on both sides) off a full turn, then tightened them back up to a reasonable level.
It could be my imagination, but the wheel seems to be spinning more freely now. The brakes still squeak, so I'm sure I have something going on up there, but I have an appointment with my mechanic the first week of August to get his opinion.

 

[20774]

All of them were this tight, to the point of making noises like I was breaking something when they finally loosened.

Sounds about right...that would be an indication that the bolts were installed dry...they usually make those kinds of noised when they let go.

 

[crucian]

ALL of those 8mm bolts were so screwed in so tight I had to get my 16 inch ratchet to loosen them! All of them were this tight, to the point of making noises like I was breaking something when they finally loosened.

I'm a long term fan of PB Blaster penetrant oil. It utilizes capillary action to get into threads where you wouldn't think it possible. What you do going back together is another thing, Anti-Sieze or Blue Locktite but getting studs out without fracturing benefits from a penetrant.

 

[20774]

Certainly, a true penetrant (not WD-40) can be helpful in getting bolts/nuts loosened. But on installation, some bolts are installed dry while some are installed wet. It's possible to over torque a connection if it was intended to be a dry joint but a lubricant is loose...usually the applied torque is lowered to account for the slipping situation created by the lubrication.