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1973 R75/5 Back-to-road Project
- Thread starter anotherbmw
- Start date
1074
Active member
oil filter
When I had my shop I always replaced the oil filters with new ones just as an assurance for my customers. I'm personally using filters from a stock that I bought about ten years ago. Some of them are the really, really old style that use the separate O ring on each end. This particular engine, in my /5, has well over 40,000 miles on it! Last winter I renewed the pushrod tube seals and inspected the bottom end and cylinders. Even pulled the oil pan to check on the pick-up screen bolts. Everything looked to be in excellent condition. The old filters, when changed have been inspected and show no signs of falling apart or disintegrating into the oil system.
I have seen some of the newer filters with the O-ring installed, where the outer ring is cracked; but I don't have a proof positive explanation as to why the cracking occurs.
When I had my shop I always replaced the oil filters with new ones just as an assurance for my customers. I'm personally using filters from a stock that I bought about ten years ago. Some of them are the really, really old style that use the separate O ring on each end. This particular engine, in my /5, has well over 40,000 miles on it! Last winter I renewed the pushrod tube seals and inspected the bottom end and cylinders. Even pulled the oil pan to check on the pick-up screen bolts. Everything looked to be in excellent condition. The old filters, when changed have been inspected and show no signs of falling apart or disintegrating into the oil system.
I have seen some of the newer filters with the O-ring installed, where the outer ring is cracked; but I don't have a proof positive explanation as to why the cracking occurs.
anotherbmw
New member
I think I will be lazy this time and use the old filter I have since it really looks like new. That means I can get the bike together tonight and take it out tomorrow morning for a ride in perfect weather
I know that CuznBob stocks the filters, but I won't make it over there today. Thanks for your feedback, guys!
anotherbmw
New member
Oil filter inner cap torque
Both the Clymer and Haynes say to torque the oil filter inner cap to 30 ft-lbs! Can that be? My gut feel tells me that's way too much or am I wrong?
Both the Clymer and Haynes say to torque the oil filter inner cap to 30 ft-lbs! Can that be? My gut feel tells me that's way too much or am I wrong?
Snowbum agrees with you on his page:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
He says 15-20 ft-lbs.
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
He says 15-20 ft-lbs.
anotherbmw
New member
I looked through his oil filter page but didn't see it there. Thanks for pointing it out! My gut feel was right I guess, since I left it at 25 ft-lbs, will do less next time.
anotherbmw
New member
You are right. After i put 100 mls or so on the bike with the new springs I decided I will take the spacers out when I replace the seal. It really is to stiff the way it is now.
cwroady
New member
Chris,
Cool beans. I believe your will find a write-up showing all the parts, in order, for the throw-out lever assembly.
Best of success in keeping you '72 on the road.
Best.
Brook.
Thanks for the encoragement Brook. Both the seal and the boot were junk. Replacement went as easily as you said and I haven’t seen a drop of oil since.
anotherbmw
New member
Tire wear....
I haven't posted much lately but for a good reason: I already put 1,200 mls on the bike and it is running strong! Next I will tackle the fork seals and the steering bearings, just waiting for the tool from Cycleworks. My winter project will be the main seal, although it almost stopped leaking, probably wouldn't be necessary, we'll see.
I find it a bit disappointing that my rear tire wears so fast. I am running the Conti's RB2 and K112 and after only 1,200 mls I would say my rear tire is 50% gone! I doubt I'll get more than 3,000 mls out of it. Did anyone have a similar experience with this tire? I go fast sometimes, we have a toll road with a speed limit of 85, so I did a few "high speed runs" (10 straight miles or so at 85+ mph a couple of times to test reliability). Not sure if I will buy that tire again if it turns out to be wearing that fast....
I haven't posted much lately but for a good reason: I already put 1,200 mls on the bike and it is running strong! Next I will tackle the fork seals and the steering bearings, just waiting for the tool from Cycleworks. My winter project will be the main seal, although it almost stopped leaking, probably wouldn't be necessary, we'll see.
I find it a bit disappointing that my rear tire wears so fast. I am running the Conti's RB2 and K112 and after only 1,200 mls I would say my rear tire is 50% gone! I doubt I'll get more than 3,000 mls out of it. Did anyone have a similar experience with this tire? I go fast sometimes, we have a toll road with a speed limit of 85, so I did a few "high speed runs" (10 straight miles or so at 85+ mph a couple of times to test reliability). Not sure if I will buy that tire again if it turns out to be wearing that fast....
The Contis are the old style tread for the bike...while it is classic and everything, there are probably better tires out there. I've been running Michelin Pilot Activs on my /7. I'm happy with them but don't have enough miles to judge the wear characteristics. As I understand it, they're pretty tough to install...I had my dealer do it.
anotherbmw
New member
I am done installing tires myself. I gave it another try with my front tire but no thanks. Hopefully I never have to change a tire on the side of the road! It's one of those things I can't seem to be figuring out how to do efficiently, even after watching many you-tube videos
1074
Active member
Conti tires
At the risk of starting another dreaded tire thread..... Those Continental tires are of a 40 plus year design. If I were building a restoration to be as accurate as possible then they would be a good choice. MY /5 doesn't fall into that category in the least. It's a rider! So my preference is to have modern tires. I've been very happy with the Bridgestone Spitfires and yes, I know that they're not made in the "original" sizes of 3.25x19 and 4.00x18. They work for me, stick very well wet or dry, and last a long time. Leave the K112 and RB2 tires for the show bikes.
Thankfully, I'm not very opinionated
At the risk of starting another dreaded tire thread..... Those Continental tires are of a 40 plus year design. If I were building a restoration to be as accurate as possible then they would be a good choice. MY /5 doesn't fall into that category in the least. It's a rider! So my preference is to have modern tires. I've been very happy with the Bridgestone Spitfires and yes, I know that they're not made in the "original" sizes of 3.25x19 and 4.00x18. They work for me, stick very well wet or dry, and last a long time. Leave the K112 and RB2 tires for the show bikes.
Thankfully, I'm not very opinionated
anotherbmw
New member
What is the equivalent metric size for a 4.00-18? If my memory is correct it is 110/90? Or would a 120 fit?
A 4.00 inch tire converts to 101.6 mm in width. A 110 is a good substitute...I'd not suggest going to 120 as it might rub on the inside of the swingarm and is extremely difficult to remove...heck 4.00 inches is hard enough. A wider tire doesn't really help with anything anyway.
Metric tires come with a price. The profile changes the bike's geometry which can affects handling. Plus the metric tires have a smaller radius and the bike will sit lower to the ground making use of center and side stands problematic. BTDT.
Metric tires come with a price. The profile changes the bike's geometry which can affects handling. Plus the metric tires have a smaller radius and the bike will sit lower to the ground making use of center and side stands problematic. BTDT.
anotherbmw
New member
Back in the garage, almost...
Too bad lives comes in the way so much if the only thing you can think of is wrenching and riding
My Cycle Works tool is on the way so after Christmas I will do steering bearings, fork seals and also install bar end turn signals.
Too bad lives comes in the way so much if the only thing you can think of is wrenching and riding
My Cycle Works tool is on the way so after Christmas I will do steering bearings, fork seals and also install bar end turn signals.
anotherbmw
New member
Very strange..... I came home after two weeks and found significant oil leaks under the valve covers. I had replaced the valve cover gaskets before I left and torqued to spec. What could have gone wrong???
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
There might be some gaps between the valve cover and the head. Usually, though, it takes a few heat cycles to help deform the new gasket to fit the surfaces. Others have used silicone gaskets (by Real Gaskets) to help with the irregular shapes. I believe RG's part numbers match BMW's numbers:
https://realgaskets.com/product-category/motorcycle/bmw/page/2/
https://realgaskets.com/product-category/motorcycle/bmw/page/2/
anotherbmw
New member
Good advice, thanks. The gaskets I installed came with my bike when I bought it, they were brand new, but I don't really know what they are.
I used them anyways since the risk is minimal, worst case I put in a new set. And I'll make sure to put some heat cycles on that bike here pretty soon!
I used them anyways since the risk is minimal, worst case I put in a new set. And I'll make sure to put some heat cycles on that bike here pretty soon!
