'02 R1150RT: Inner Faring Removal/AF-XIED upgrade/24K Service

[tangoalpha]

My Fellow Oilheads,

Well....the work on Der Beemer continues. If you happen to have read my previous thread about replacing the battery on my bike, this is somewhat of an update. The battery install went fine, but as mentioned in the last post, once I got the bike back together, before starting I attempted to recalibrate the Motronic FI. I did this by turning the ignition on, twisting the throttle (WOT) and releasing, 2X. Then I started the engine. I noticed a rough idle that wasn't there before so I sought the advice of forum members and was encouraged to check the throttle cable to ensure that they didn't pop out of the ferrels attached to the throttle body on the left & right side of the bike. So on that suggestion, I took the panels off again and double checked the throttle cables. Everything appeared to be fine. The cables were seated in the ferrels and the cable didn't hang up on anything. The rough idle is still a mystery. I'm open to your thoughts on what else I can do to correct this. Throttle body sync comes to mind, but again, this was all brought on by changing my battery. So that makes this rough idle that much more baffling. I'm considering installing an AF-Xied. Any of you with experience with this product have any feedback on that? Also, what about installation? I understand that since my bike is a 2002, the AF-Xied unit for my bike is a matter of plug and play. From what I understand the O2 connector is under the gas tank on the right hand side of the frame. Would I need to remove the gas tank entirely or can I simply prop the tank up to access the plug?

Since I had already removed the left/right panels and belly pan, I decided to remove the nose cone/headlight assembly to fix the headlight adjuster that doesn't work. Turning the dial on the dash right or left does nothing to raise or lower the headlight beam. I also wanted to remove my inner fairing to install a new TPMS system I ordered. Figured since I had the bike apart anyway, I might as well just remove the inner fairing since it was only a few screws and would be much easier to work on than actually mounted to the bike itself. I am a bit stumped on how to remove the headlight adjuster from the inner fairing or the cable which attaches to the headlight assembly. Any tips? See pics.

Lastly, I've started my 24K service. I've replaced my air filter, engine and well...now a new battery. Next on the to do list is changing changing the brake and clutch fluid (something I'm dreading the thought of on this servo equipped bike), change the gear box fluid, change the final drive unit which appears to be a pice of cake. I know that there are special crush washers (and NM torque specs). Would someone happen to know the part numbers? Then finally I need to finish up by replacing the spark plugs and the fuel filter. I know the fuel filter is gonna be a PITA, so any tips on that would be wonderful.

 

[giarcg]

See that thing that looks like a nut in the first pic? It is a nut. Back it off (meaning rotate counterclockwise) and let the cable pass through the dashboard. Seriously... if this has you miffed you might reconsider attempting the brake flush. This might sting a bit but may be helpful in the long run.

 

[tangoalpha]

See that thing that looks like a nut in the first pic? It is a nut. Back it off (meaning rotate counterclockwise) and let the cable pass through the dashboard. Seriously... if this has you miffed you might reconsider attempting the brake flush. This might sting a bit but may be helpful in the long run.

I know it seems kinda funny, I thought the same thing myself. How can I do so much mechanical work and get stumped by something so simple? LOL! I attempted to loosen the nut but it didn't loosen as you would expect it to. So whoever "hand tightened it" must have been a brute or decided that BMW really needed to torque it down, because God knows how much the company loves Newton Meters. At that point, I started to second guess it and began to think that maybe it was press fit on or maybe it went on/off by pressing on what appears could be tension tabs on the base of it. So rather than manhandle it and possibly break it, I just decided to ask. With older bikes like these, plastic tends to get brittle and things snap off more easily, so out of an abundance of caution I decided not to risk it. Anyway, thanks for the tip. Much appreciated.

Do you have any thoughts about the other questions I posed? Or have any guesses why the headlamp is not adjusting?

 

[PAS]

I suggest you buy a Chilton manual for your bike just for starters.

 

[tangoalpha]

I suggest you buy a Chilton manual for your bike just for starters.

Got one ordered. I was debating about whether to buy that or a Haynes, but from some of the comments I've read elsewhere, it seems like the Chilton is preferred. Hopefully it will arrive by the weekend.

 

[K7GLE]

change the gear box fluid

If you haven't done this before, be warned it can be a mess, dumping oil all over your catalytic box (assuming the 1150 is configured the same as the 1100). There is apparently a BMW tool to insert into the "tunnel" where the drain screw lives, but I've never heard of anyone actually owning one. Some folks make a tool from PVC pipe, but I prefer to cut the cardboard tube from a paper towel roll longitudinally a bit less than 1/2 its length, then cut circumferentially a bit more than halfway around. The cut end will now roll up small enough to fit into the "tunnel" but still allow clearance for your wrench and the drain screw, and if you have made your circumferential cut long enough you can bend the tube at that point to direct the gush of old oil into your drain pan. I prefer this to the PVC method because there's nothing to clean afterward - just throw the tube away.

 

[tangoalpha]

If you haven't done this before, be warned it can be a mess, dumping oil all over your catalytic box (assuming the 1150 is configured the same as the 1100). There is apparently a BMW tool to insert into the "tunnel" where the drain screw lives, but I've never heard of anyone actually owning one. Some folks make a tool from PVC pipe, but I prefer to cut the cardboard tube from a paper towel roll longitudinally a bit less than 1/2 its length, then cut circumferentially a bit more than halfway around. The cut end will now roll up small enough to fit into the "tunnel" but still allow clearance for your wrench and the drain screw, and if you have made your circumferential cut long enough you can bend the tube at that point to direct the gush of old oil into your drain pan. I prefer this to the PVC method because there's nothing to clean afterward - just throw the tube away.

Love your idea. Thanks! I'll go with that. I was contemplating using a thin piece of plastic to serve as a funnel, but I think I like your idea much better. Nothing to clean afterward, just throw the paper towel tube in the trash. Thanks for the tip.

 

[pauls1150]

Chilton and Haynes each have their "ok" and "not-so-ok" points... I refer to both, for the different pics (sometimes) and the different directives. Chilton has had some wrong torque values listed (and newer editions didn't fix them); dunno about the Haynes - when in doubt, refer to the factory book or DVD.

re changing the Gearbox oil - a slightly shortened paper towel tube helps a lot (a toilet paper tube may be too short, depending on what else you may have in that vicinity); press it firmly against the drain hole before you pull the plug. I also slip a large piece of aluminum foil over the catalytic converter so the oil doesn't hit it; you can even form a little spout to direct the drainage out to your pan. I do this for the rear drive, too, to keep the oil off of the tire and wheel.

 

[PAS]

This is my quick "rough cut" drain pipe. I also use the aluminum foil on the cat.

 

[tangoalpha]

This is my quick "rough cut" drain pipe. I also use the aluminum foil on the cat.
View attachment 63552

Thanks PAS. Looks good. Except your missing the BMW part # on that thing! Should start with 46.238-12XXXX. LOL! BMW and their part #'s!! So crazy. I have a ton of Schedule 40 in my garage, that may be an option too. I think I'm going to give the paper towel roll a try first and see how that goes, then decide from there. The aluminum foil also seems like a smart idea.

 

[tangoalpha]

Chilton and Haynes each have their "ok" and "not-so-ok" points... I refer to both, for the different pics (sometimes) and the different directives. Chilton has had some wrong torque values listed (and newer editions didn't fix them); dunno about the Haynes - when in doubt, refer to the factory book or DVD.

re changing the Gearbox oil - a slightly shortened paper towel tube helps a lot (a toilet paper tube may be too short, depending on what else you may have in that vicinity); press it firmly against the drain hole before you pull the plug. I also slip a large piece of aluminum foil over the catalytic converter so the oil doesn't hit it; you can even form a little spout to direct the drainage out to your pan. I do this for the rear drive, too, to keep the oil off of the tire and wheel.

Great ideas! This is one of the reasons I enjoy this forum so much. There's just nothing better than the collective knowledge of a large group of experienced owners like this. The other advantage is my bike is 15 years old, so there's probably nothing I'm going to encounter that you old pro's haven't already dealt with yourself. I sure appreciate you guys passing on the knowledge, epically to someone who's been out of the BMW realm for many years and completely new to the oilhead bikes.

 

[tangoalpha]

Spark Plugs.....any suggestions? I see that Beemer Boneyard sells NGK & Bosch Platinum for under $20 for a pair. What have you used that works best?

 

[K7GLE]

Chilton has had some wrong torque values listed (and newer editions didn't fix them)

Chilton's electrical diagram for my R1100RT also identifies some fuses as 40A that should be 15A.

I wasn't aware of the wrong torque values in Chilton - Thanks! I just recently bought a Haynes (Powell's City of Books in Portland rocks!) so I guess I'll start comparing torques on any work I do and, for any that don't agree between the two, check the online OEM shop manual for the correct values.

 

[tangoalpha]

Chilton's electrical diagram for my R1100RT also identifies some fuses as 40A that should be 15A.

I wasn't aware of the wrong torque values in Chilton - Thanks! I just recently bought a Haynes (Powell's City of Books in Portland rocks!) so I guess I'll start comparing torques on any work I do and, for any that don't agree between the two, check the online OEM shop manual for the correct values.

WOW! That's absolutely crazy! How can Chilton get away with not correcting that information? That's totally absurd.

 

[cap]

Spark Plugs.....any suggestions?

I have a 2004 RT with dual plugs. This last time, I bought Denso IK22's for the primary plug... less than $7 each on Amazon with free 2-day shipping with prime. I used the OEM Bosch YR6LDE plugs for the secondaries... Also less than $7 each.

As an aside, I had a similar situation to your rough running after I completed some unrelated service. I spent several hours tinkering with valves, plugs, and TB's. And then it turned out that both of my stick-coils were bad. The bike actually ran a long trip from Colorado to New Mexico using only the secondary spark. I'm pretty impressed with the dual spark engine. Not so impressed with BMW parts quality, although the coils were 13 years old.

 

[pauls1150]

NGK plugs can be had quite cheaply from any auto supply; my most local store (an O'Reilly's) doesn't stock them but WILL have them in 2 or 3 days every time. Maybe $4/each?

For the dual-plug models: NGK BKR7EKC-N (part # 2095) in the center (of the combustion chamber), and NGK DCPR6E (part # 3481) in the outer/lower location. If you want platinums (longer lasting), BKR7-EIX (part # 2667), and DCPR6-EIX (part # 8196).

Gap should be 0.031" when new; this allows for some wear over time... Be VERY careful if trying to adjust the gap on platinum plugs: the center porcelain breaks very easily.

Yeah, those stick coils suck rocks...

 

[tangoalpha]

I have a 2004 RT with dual plugs. This last time, I bought Denso IK22's for the primary plug... less than $7 each on Amazon with free 2-day shipping with prime. I used the OEM Bosch YR6LDE plugs for the secondaries... Also less than $7 each.

As an aside, I had a similar situation to your rough running after I completed some unrelated service. I spent several hours tinkering with valves, plugs, and TB's. And then it turned out that both of my stick-coils were bad. The bike actually ran a long trip from Colorado to New Mexico using only the secondary spark. I'm pretty impressed with the dual spark engine. Not so impressed with BMW parts quality, although the coils were 13 years old.

DING! DING! DING! I think we may have a winner. Cap, that makes perfect sense to me and I think you may be right about it; certainly would explain the rough idle. I haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, but it's also possible they may have become fouled...so that's also a possibility to look in to. Admittedly, your idea makes the most sense though; the bike is 15 years old and the stick coils are the originals. Replacing them would be the easiest solution yet. I think I will test your theory tomorrow by disconnecting a stick coil with the motor running. If there's no change in the idle whatsoever, then we can conclude the stick coil is the culprit. If it worsens, then we know the coil is working. I'll try both sides individually.

Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[tangoalpha]

NGK plugs can be had quite cheaply from any auto supply; my most local store (an O'Reilly's) doesn't stock them but WILL have them in 2 or 3 days every time. Maybe $4/each?

For the dual-plug models: NGK BKR7EKC-N (part # 2095) in the center (of the combustion chamber), and NGK DCPR6E (part # 3481) in the outer/lower location. If you want platinums (longer lasting), BKR7-EIX (part # 2667), and DCPR6-EIX (part # 8196).

Gap should be 0.031" when new; this allows for some wear over time... Be VERY careful if trying to adjust the gap on platinum plugs: the center porcelain breaks very easily.

Yeah, those stick coils suck rocks...

Hi Paul. Thanks for the those part #'s buddy & Gap setting. I can always count on you for detailed information. Much appreciated. I must admit, I'm kind of leaning towards the Platinum plugs. I've had excellent results in other applications where I've used them.

As far as this bike goes, it is a single spark model..sadly. If I had my druthers, I'd much prefer a twin spark. I suppose if I wanted to go that route I could always have my heads machined or swapped out for a twin spark, but I'm afraid it would be cost prohibitive. For the money I'd have to spend on such an upgrade, I'd be better off selling this bike and looking for a nice well maintained twin spark model. I'll check Beemer Boneyard to see if they carry the stick coils since I'm preparing to place an order with them anyway...just in case I may need to buy a set.

 

[pauls1150]

Single spark: Autolite Platinum AP-3922, nuthin' better! (The 1100s use AP-3923.)

Sorry about the "dual-spark" #s - there was a "transistion" series between the 1100s and 1150s...

With a bad stick, you actually may NOT see fouling: the other plug still fires well enough to show a decent burn. Your technique as described in post 17 is THE way to do it. Be easy on the little plastic locking tabs - they break often enough that BMW has a "repair kit" for that section of harness. Before pulling one off, make real sure it is actually Fully Seated - a loose contact here (they're SO tiny) will cause issues.

One more thing I've seen on a couple of dual-spark bikes (including my present RT) is that the clips that hold the secondary plugs' high-tension wires can be too tight, damaging the insulation. This causes an intermittent leakage to ground. They're easy to open up a little bit, but if the cable is damaged, R&R w/ new... If your parts source gives you the wrong one(s), the error is in BMW's fiche... use the GS wires.

 

[cap]

With a bad stick, you actually may NOT see fouling: the other plug still fires well enough to show a decent burn.

Indeed, after running for 1000+ miles on the secondary plugs, I was dreading the task of pulling the primaries because I anticipated that they would be ruined. But, both plugs were pristine. I had already purchased the replacements, so I installed the new plugs, and kept the old ones as spares.

@tangoalpha: since you have only 1 plug per cylinder, if your engine is running at all, your coils are probably fine. R-bikes will run on one cylinder, but just barely, and under audible protest. If you disconnect one stick, and it keeps running, but just barely, then you will get the idea.

Back in the day, there was a procedure called "water torture" in which the engine was run on one cylinder while water was introduced to the opposite cylinder via the vacuum port for the alleged goal of reducing carbon buildup on the piston.