rear tire removal centerstand? (2016 R1200RT)

rick601 · Jul 10, 2020

I searched "rear tire centerstand" and got like 287 pages of hits...rear tire centerstand [titles only] like 87 pages...none seemed to answer...OK done venting about search function!

On a 2016 R1200RT it looks like I could remove the rear wheel using only the centerstand...with all bags and exhaust off it looks like the bike would rest on the front wheel/tire and centerstand. Anyone have actual experience doing that or is it a known stupid move...perhaps the tightening torque could roll it off the stand? (yes- I want to put it back on with a new tire). If I'm barking up the wrong tree- suggested jack points? Tempting to use this as a motorcycle lift excuse but ...

stooie · Jul 10, 2020

Rick:

Yes; the center stand works just fine for changing the rear tire. It's good to get the bags off to get them out of the way anyway. Removing the wheel shifts the center of gravity farther forward and makes the bike more stable on the center stand.

Good luck!

20774 · Jul 10, 2020

One thread in the Similar Threads pane discusses this about an earlier model. Might have some thoughts.

pglaves · Jul 10, 2020

rick601 said:
I searched "rear tire centerstand" and got like 287 pages of hits...rear tire centerstand [titles only] like 87 pages...none seemed to answer...OK done venting about search function!

On a 2016 R1200RT it looks like I could remove the rear wheel using only the centerstand...with all bags and exhaust off it looks like the bike would rest on the front wheel/tire and centerstand. Anyone have actual experience doing that or is it a known stupid move...perhaps the tightening torque could roll it off the stand? (yes- I want to put it back on with a new tire). If I'm barking up the wrong tree- suggested jack points? Tempting to use this as a motorcycle lift excuse but ...

I have done it 100 times but it depends on the bike. Most BMWs are balanced so that when the rear wheel is removed it will rest on the center stand and front tire. Some are also balanced well enough that if the front wheel is off it will rest on the stand and the rear wheel. But, as I said it depends on the bike. I use an old scissors jack sometimes to support the back or front just to make sure. If wrenching it forward off the center stand is a fear you can always strap the center stand so it can't fold back.

But there is also a technique you should learn to use. When tightening wheel fasteners always pull backwards or down, never forward. So (if on the left side of the bike) with the wrench handle straight up pull back and down to tighten. And with the wrench handle pointed down pull backwards to loosen. (If on the right side of the bike do the opposite.) If you make this a habit you won't pull your bike off the centerstand. The same for tightening or loosening drain or fill plugs. Pull sideways or back, never forward.

ebell · Jul 10, 2020

rick601 said:
I searched "rear tire centerstand" and got like 287 pages of hits...rear tire centerstand [titles only] like 87 pages...none seemed to answer...OK done venting about search function!

On a 2016 R1200RT it looks like I could remove the rear wheel using only the centerstand...with all bags and exhaust off it looks like the bike would rest on the front wheel/tire and centerstand. Anyone have actual experience doing that or is it a known stupid move...perhaps the tightening torque could roll it off the stand? (yes- I want to put it back on with a new tire). If I'm barking up the wrong tree- suggested jack points? Tempting to use this as a motorcycle lift excuse but ...

Yes. Have a bit of 2x4 handy to help lift and roll the wheel back on.

Boxflyer · Jul 10, 2020

Hi Rick
I had to change my tires in the middle of a 12,000mi trip last summer...I just happened to be riding thru Payson, UT and saw the Rocky Mountain/ATV warehouse right off of I-15 south of Provo.

I phoned while riding and they confirmed that they had the tires I wanted and could install them on my rims only if I hand carried them in...they could not do any work on my bike.
It didn't take long and I was back on my way with fresh rubber and that nice feeling of new tires!
My bike balances very easily on the center stand to remove either front or rear wheels...just needed to remove the panniers to keep it on the front tire...and just a little ballast adjustment with my helmet and jacket and it's pretty secure.

PoorUB · Jul 10, 2020

As an extra precaution I will strap the center stand forward. With my 2018 RT I pull the muffler too.

exgman · Jul 11, 2020

I have a 2015 RT and the rider's manual for the bike shows the technique of removing the rear wheel and re-installing it on pages 128 -130. A key element of the process is the rotation of the muffler outward, to allow the wheel to roll out. It's easily done, and with the luggage off and a level floor, it's a simple process.

strataj · Jul 11, 2020

When I remove the rear wheel I also remove the muffler. I like to remove the muffler so I can apply thin coat of anti-seize, it makes it so easy the next time. Same steps for removal as moving it to the side.

exgman · Jul 11, 2020

strataj said:
When I remove the rear wheel I also remove the muffler. I like to remove the muffler so I can apply thin coat of anti-seize, it makes it so easy the next time. Same steps for removal as moving it to the side.

I certainly agree with you Strataj about the removal. However, that large bolt on the muffler fitting is in a prime location to accumulate corrosion. I had the anti-seize all ready to go three weeks ago, but I couldn't loosen that bolt enough to get the muffler off. I could get it loose enough to rotate, though.

See number 5 in this diagram:

Screen Shot 2020-07-11 at 10.30.52 AM.png

I'm going to have to order a new bolt/clamp ($38 from Max BMW), and do the job right.

cap · Jul 11, 2020

ExGMan said:
...See number 5 in this diagram:
...

I carry a 13mm deep socket for that bolt. And you can use that on your brake calipers too, when you remove the front wheel.

stooie · Jul 11, 2020

ExGMan said:
I certainly agree with you Strataj about the removal. However, that large bolt on the muffler fitting is in a prime location to accumulate corrosion. I had the anti-seize all ready to go three weeks ago, but I couldn't loosen that bolt enough to get the muffler off. I could get it loose enough to rotate, though.

I'm going to have to order a new bolt/clamp ($38 from Max BMW), and do the job right.

Wow! Thanks for the heads up about that clamp! Next time I remove the muffler for a new rear tire I'm going to make sure to clean up that clamp and get some anti-seize on it.

exgman · Jul 11, 2020

stooie said:
Wow! Thanks for the heads up about that clamp! Next time I remove the muffler for a new rear tire I'm going to make sure to clean up that clamp and get some anti-seize on it.

Also, if you look back at that diagram in my post, you'll see two tiny bits labeled "4." There are three of those which anchor the Torx screws which hold the pricey chrome cover piece (#6 ) in place. These are subject to the same corrosive effects, so I replaced those also. I think they're $2.50 each, and also candidates for the anti-seize treatment. I could not find a suitable replacement for them in either a hardware store or auto parts store, so I ordered them from MAX BMW.

Dann · Jul 11, 2020

stooie said:
Wow! Thanks for the heads up about that clamp! Next time I remove the muffler for a new rear tire I'm going to make sure to clean up that clamp and get some anti-seize on it.

This bolt should be installed dry. Simply clean it. Adding anti seize will only attract debris that will stick to it and make it worst. Mine lasted 100,000 mi on my 07RT.

According to the repair manual, the only lubricant used is the Optimoly TA on the inner side of the clamp to help positioning it.

YMMV

exgman · Jul 21, 2020

Muffler Clamp on 2015 RT (maybe others too)

In case anyone is interested, here are a couple of photos of a muffler clamp for the 2015 RT and perhaps for other models too.

rangerreece · Jul 22, 2020

ExGMan said:
Also, if you look back at that diagram in my post, you'll see two tiny bits labeled "4." There are three of those which anchor the Torx screws which hold the pricey chrome cover piece (#6 ) in place. These are subject to the same corrosive effects, so I replaced those also. I think they're $2.50 each, and also candidates for the anti-seize treatment. I could not find a suitable replacement for them in either a hardware store or auto parts store, so I ordered them from MAX BMW.

You know John... If you spend an hour cleaning your bike after every ride, there is no corrosive effects. :nono

fog820 · Jul 27, 2020

rangerreece said:
You know John... If you spend an hour cleaning your bike after every ride, there is no corrosive effects.

Now that was funny.

exgman · Jul 27, 2020

fog820 said:
Now that was funny.

Well, fog820, if you're ever in southern AL, you might drop by and say hello to Reece. Once you see his garage and 2 & 4-wheeled BMWs, you'll understand he's serious!

lkchris · Aug 5, 2020

Dann said:
This bolt should be installed dry. Simply clean it. Adding anti seize will only attract debris that will stick to it and make it worst. Mine lasted 100,000 mi on my 07RT.

According to the repair manual, the only lubricant used is the Optimoly TA on the inner side of the clamp to help positioning it.

YMMV

Optimoly TA is of course antiseize (high temperature) and any on the threads within the nut will not attract dirt. Wipe off the excess.

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