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Bike on Side Stand - Which Way Do You Turn the Wheel?

It changes the amount of weight on the side stand.

If you have the forks turned to the left, the maximum amount of weight is placed on the side stand. The result is that the bike is more stable when parked. If the handlebars are turned to the right, there is less less weight on the side stand and therefore less stable.

Try it yourself - turn the bars to the left, then 'get medieval' with the bike - attempting to push it side to side with out turning the handlebars - like the bike is in a strong wind or bumped by a passerby. Bike 'should' stay put. Turn the bars to the right and repeat with same effort, but be prepared - it might fall over because the weight on the side stand was reduced, rolling forward and off of the stand.

Not all bikes will react the same way, but many will. This is what is 'usually' taught in the MSF BRC class's.
Have no idea why anyone would teach turning the bars to the right. Bikes usually look 'cooler' when turned to the right, but....

Never tried it on my RT, but I know my DR will flop off the side stand when turned to the right. SV track bike - not so much.
 
When I put my bike on the sidestand I just leave the front wheel pointed straight ahead.:dunno

But, since I own an early Kbike with non-pinned rings, I usually leave the bike on the centerstand (unless there is a mosquito problem in the area that I might want to take care of on the next startup).

I don't see any reason to turn the forks either way.:dunno


:dance:dance:dance
 
Hey, think I've read that BMW bikes are about the LEAST stolen if you do anything but leave the ignition key in place. (Of course, modern bikes have smart keys. A friend with a really old BMW always leaves his key in place because only a fanatic about that model would ever find it.) Never could find the way to lock the forks on my 1992 K100RS - and didn't cause me any worries.
 
Doug,

Turn forks all the way to the right, put key in fork lock, push in on key as you turn the key counter clockwise. Now slowly start turning the forks back to the left (maybe 15 or 20 degrees) until the key goes in further. You will be able to feel the forks hit the lock pin. While maintaining the inward position of the key, turn it clockwise back to the normal vertical position. Then remove the key.

To unlock, turn the key counter clockwise without pushing in on the key. You might have to slightly wiggle the forks to remove any bind on the lock pin. The pin will spring out. Return key to vertical and remove.

You cannot lock the forks when turned to the left because the left fork tube will be in the way of the key slot.

This procedure is one large reason nobody bothers to lock their forks very often on early Kbikes. It usually takes a couple trys to find that elusive sweet spot where the pin drops in.
Sort of like patting your head and rubbing your tummy.



:dance:dance:dance
 
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Doug,

Turn forks all the way to the right, put key in fork lock, push in on key as you turn the key counter clockwise. Now slowly start turning the forks back to the left (maybe 15 or 20 degrees) until the key goes in further. You will be able to feel the forks hit the lock pin. While maintaining the inward position of the key, turn it clockwise back to the normal vertical position. Then remove the key.

To unlock, turn the key counter clockwise without pushing in on the key. You might have to slightly wiggle the forks to remove any bind on the lock pin. The pin will spring out. Return key to vertical and remove.

You cannot lock the forks when turned to the left because the left fork tube will be in the way of the key slot.

This procedure is one large reason nobody bothers to lock their forks very often on early Kbikes. It usually takes a couple trys to find that elusive sweet spot where the pin drops in.
Sort of like patting your head and rubbing your tummy.



:dance:dance:dance
Lee, I want to thank you for all the advice you have offered over the years about my K75 (which was totaled in a crash) and also about the K100RS which I sold last fall, though it still shows up in my signature on this post. I think you - and a few others who really know some models of BMW bikes - are worth the price of membership alone. Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge of K-bikes.
 
I turn the bars to the right to dismount. It gives me more stability (me, not the bike) and that's important because I have poor balance. Once off the bike I usually turn them to the left and lock the forks. I always lock the forks, and if I'm going to be very far away, put on an alarmed disc lock.
 
I turn the bars to the right to dismount. It gives me more stability (me, not the bike) and that's important because I have poor balance. Once off the bike I usually turn them to the left and lock the forks. I always lock the forks, and if I'm going to be very far away, put on an alarmed disc lock.

All that security in "The City of Angels"?
 
Doug,

Turn forks all the way to the right, put key in fork lock, push in on key as you turn the key counter clockwise. Now slowly start turning the forks back to the left (maybe 15 or 20 degrees) until the key goes in further. You will be able to feel the forks hit the lock pin. While maintaining the inward position of the key, turn it clockwise back to the normal vertical position. Then remove the key.

To unlock, turn the key counter clockwise without pushing in on the key. You might have to slightly wiggle the forks to remove any bind on the lock pin. The pin will spring out. Return key to vertical and remove.

You cannot lock the forks when turned to the left because the left fork tube will be in the way of the key slot.

This procedure is one large reason nobody bothers to lock their forks very often on early Kbikes. It usually takes a couple trys to find that elusive sweet spot where the pin drops in.
Sort of like patting your head and rubbing your tummy.



:dance:dance:dance

After seeing the difficulty that an experienced BMW tech had demonstrating to me how to lock my K's forks, I ceased trying fearing that I might succeed and then being unable to unlock it. :dunno
 
Because of the inclination of the forks, turning them side to side moves the front tire contact patch side to side as well.

Thus, fork movement changes the shape of the support triangle. With the forks turned right, the front tire contact patch moves left and slightly narrows the triangle formed by the tire contact patches and the foot of the stand. With the forks turned left, the front tire contact patch moves right and slightly widens the triangle.

Even though the bike leans a bit more if the forks are turned left, I think the wider triangle provides more stable support. YM (even at zero speed!) MV.
 
As common sense should tell us, motorcycle thieves, like any kind of criminal, have varying degrees preparedness. Some are opportunists, and some have very high levels of sophistication. I've stopped thieves who have happened upon parked motorcycles where the owner left his key in the ignition. Before the helmet law, all that these types needed was the ability to show up and know how to ride. Nowadays, where helmet laws exist, those types just need a helmet (unless the cyclist has left his on the bike).

I was involved in the arrest of a m/c theft ring that had a box truck, complete with rails, wheel chocks, and tie downs, a follow van with "muscle," tools, including cutting torches, a generator, a compressor, and pneumatic tools, and a "lure car," who's purpose was to commit traffic violations to draw officers' attention away from the box truck, or in the extreme, to interfere with arrests and/or rescue their crime partners.

A disc lock won't stop the second group of thieves that I mentioned, nothing will. But it sure eliminates the first kind, and they're much more common. Add a chain that's attached to something secure and you've stopped just about all thieves. When locks fail, insurance kicks in. Get the best you can afford.

Thinking that where one lives is a "safe area" and therefore you don't have to lock up your bike or similarly, lock the doors of your home, is, as I alluded to, denial. No doubt we'll hear from some of the gamblers who will say, "I've lived here for 50 years and I've never ..."
 
I think the real gamblers are those that live in one of our major metro areas. I'm not in denial about the risks associated with living here, but we certainly don't have gangs using three vehicles to steal motorcycles.
 
Add a chain that's attached to something secure and you've stopped just about all thieves.

Cordless angle grinder.

bshrgws18v-45-rt.jpg
 
Just curious. In my 25+ years of riding I've parked every bike I've owned the same way - I place it on the side stand and I turn the wheel left so the fork can be locked. Yet I've seen many people turn the front wheel to the right when parked on the side stand (where I assume the fork lock does not work - admittedly I never tried to see if it does, though). For those who park with the wheel turned to the right, is there a reason you do this and forego the security of locking the fork? More stability, easier to dismount/mount, habit? Thanks!!

MSF taught me to mount the bike from the right (high) side , when on side stand. bars to left leave more room for legs and easier to hang hat on right bar end. :) b
 
MSF taught me to mount the bike from the right (high) side , when on side stand. bars to left leave more room for legs and easier to hang hat on right bar end. :) b

I've taken more than one MSF course and was never told to mount the bike from the right. When and where did you take the course that taught this? Any Rider Coaches care to comment?

I have observed a Motor Officer mount from the right. Greenwald?
 
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