No Fuel Gauge Bars or Low Level Fuel Light: 96 R1100GS

Ok, I think I messed up and shorted a wire somewhere.

I installed a new battery (Odyssey), and it had a higher than normal post; I think I must have touched the tank carelessly to the post, with connector still attached, as I have lost all fuel gauge annunciations, both the bars and the low level fuel light.

From Roger's post on erroneous Fuel Guage readings : http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...ng-Low-A-Fix&p=1015002&viewfull=1#post1015002

there is a diagram of the wires leading up to the tank, and I am unsure where the short would actually be. I am assuming the Heavy Brown wire that is the common for the Fuel pump, is still working, as the fuel pump does indeed work. But when I check for continuity from Pin 1(Brown Wire) to tank, I get an open circuit; I also get an open circuit on Pin 4. Pin 3 shows continuity but I am not sure if this is normal or not.

So here are my questions:

If I did fry a wire, where would it most likely be? I have looked at the connector itself and the small amount of wire exposed to the eye from under the sheath, and do not see any damage.

If I have to go inside the tank, will I need to replace the O-Ring that is used to seal the plate to the tank, or can that be reused? Also, are there any sealants used in this repair, or just the O-ring itself?

I have checked all fuses and relays and all appears to be OK.

Paul, GSAddict, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

John

You lost two, as in 2, seperate circuits.

You have a loose connector somewhere or you accidentally cooked a ground. Pull the fuses, put 'em back in. My gut is going with the ground.
Don't let BS baffle you, start simple first.

dieselyoda said:

You have a loose connector somewhere or you accidentally cooked a ground. Pull the fuses, put 'em back in. My gut is going with the ground.
Don't let BS baffle you, start simple first.

Click to expand...

I think I have covered the simple stuff dieselyoda. I have pulled each fuse, even checked each with ohm meter for zero resistance; all relays appear to be working, as the primary functions associated with each are working.

I have taken the connectors and cleaned them; by using electrical contact cleaner, and also fine sandpaper on both the pins, and the pin housing in the opposite connectors.

Just no bars on RID, but oil Temp, Gear indicator, and clock all work; and no low level fuel light.

The Fuel pump indeed works, so both that specific ground, and the Pin 2 with 12V appears to work. I am just wondering, if indeed it is the harness, or internal wires? Where would be the most likely place? I have not personally ever opened the access panel to the tank, so a bit tentative here. Not sure if I need to, but if I must, then what is the procedure for replacing the panel? New Gasket, or Sealant? Or can I use the old O-ring again?

You have the four(?) maybe five(?) could even be more pin connector from the tank. Sorry, Saturday, hockey, beers with buddies...................
In that bundle, you will have a power, ignition voltage and a ground.
Key on, no start, check you battery voltage.
Find power in the connector, I am gonna guess red, should be the same.
Take your DVOM, find resistance to ground in the connector. Anything more than a few ohms will be an issue.
If the problem is in the tank, which I doubt, shoot continuity between ground and all the wires.
The only common thing that I can find to two separate circuits is the ground from this fabulous diagram that I take no credit for but is just great.
Time for another beer, Jets won, fair and square and the Leafs actually pulled this tonight off.

Great diagram, thanks!

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It's most likely the small brown wire inside the fuel tank on the fuel pump plate that joins the heavy brown wire on the connector outside.
I have seen more than 1 fried especially if the tank was empty when the short was initiated.

Note that the GS wiring has some differences compared to the RT for the sender and light.
(as well as most having a steel tank)

Thank you, GS.

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