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Going to look at a '01 r11rt Saturday. Comments please

B

brhartw

New member
I am going to look at '01 r1100rt soon. It has 39,000 miles, 3 cases, charcoal gray,$5600. Owner bought it after riding a friends but has decided Harley is what his gang rides so the BMW must go. Has had recent service/corrections to the tune of 1800 and will probably need a new rear tire soon.

What should I look for? I know to check service records, owner records. Is there anything special I should look for in a '01 rt? What about this surging issue? It sounds like some have it and some don't.

I have heard the transmission can be expensive to repair. Is this true on the later model 1100s?

Any advice or comments on what to look out for are greatly appreciated.

Thank:clap:kiss you!
 
For $5,600.00 that is a good deal for a clean well accessorized bike. Surging is a none issue and overdone by the press and many riders. Guarantee the seller will be singin' the blues somewhere down the road!
 
'01 rt

Any 1100 from 1998 on is good.
The transmission is the M97, which sometimes need a rebuild when the wave washer fails and the sealed bearings get damaged. My '98 R1100RS has just been rebuilt with about 140,000 miles on the clock - so you have a lot of miles to go before any trouble should develop. The rebuild was less than $800 in my case.
Other things that need periodic attention would be pivot pins/bearings - put the bike up on the centerstand and try to twist the rear wheel left to right and top to bottom. The pivot pins/bearings can be done by yourself if they go bad - $200 for pins and bearings.
Rear shock wears out after xxx miles. I replaced mine at 90,000 miles, but many people replace them around 40,000 - cost is about $1200.
With that low number of miles, I think you should be good to go.
 
I have a 2000 R1100RT and love it. No surging problems just over 50 K. Sounds like a good deal to me! Let us know how it goes and I agree with gnmiller it will be your favorite bike. At least till ya get the next one.:D
 
YES the transmission is expensive to repair! My PO paid $3000 to have a rebuilt one installed. Fortunately the problem manifests itself in a test drive by skipping out of second or third gear. You could also offer to change the transmission oil. If it comes out mocha coffee brown thats a bad sign too. But pay attention during the test drive for jumping out of gear.
Im a little suspicious about the "Harley" story. Also about the $1800 in repairs and now its up for sale. Maybe he's got a problem he cant fix and wants out. Ask the guy if you can give him $100 and keep the bike for a week. Maybe its legit maybe its not.
 
I recommend test driving an 1150RT first. You'll appreciate the better power and the six speed.
 
flars said:
Other things that need periodic attention would be pivot pins/bearings - put the bike up on the centerstand and try to twist the rear wheel left to right and top to bottom. The pivot pins/bearings can be done by yourself if they go bad - $200 for pins and bearings.
Click to expand...

in addition to this, "isolate" the final drive from the paralever by resting your shin against it and try rocking the wheel left to right. if you get more than a very tiny amount of movement, it indicates things in the final drive are not within spec. again, isolating the final drive removes the possibility that it might the pivot pins and their associated bearings. (there is also a great after market solution to repairing these pivot bearings with bronze bushings.) do both tests so you know exactly where your free play lies.
 
jingdog said:
YES the transmission is expensive to repair! My PO paid $3000 to have a rebuilt one installed. Fortunately the problem manifests itself in a test drive by skipping out of second or third gear. You could also offer to change the transmission oil. If it comes out mocha coffee brown thats a bad sign too. But pay attention during the test drive for jumping out of gear.
Im a little suspicious about the "Harley" story. Also about the $1800 in repairs and now its up for sale. Maybe he's got a problem he cant fix and wants out. Ask the guy if you can give him $100 and keep the bike for a week. Maybe its legit maybe its not.
Click to expand...

Good post.... but, $1800.00 at a shop these days can happen quickly and without a huge amount of work being performed. It is why most of us do a lot, or at least some of our own maintenance and repairs. Caveat Emptor; "Let the buyer beware!"
 
Hmm since I almost never take the bike to BMW for repairs I guess I wouldnt know! The Wife would have something to say about that much to fix the motorcycle!
 
his "gang" decides what he rides???
they tell him how to dress and what to eat too? :brow :huh

I like my RT too.
Tho I do get surging. Even after the shop did the one and only shop balancing.
Needs it again it seems after about 4k miles which I will attempt ( 1st time).

Truth be told tho If I could I'd go to an 1150 or a 1200RT since I definitely can't afford a K1300GT
 
Boxwrench said:
his "gang" decides what he rides???
they tell him how to dress absolutely! doo rag, assless pants, fingerless gloves, engineer boots, chain drive wallet & leather vest, but of course. eye patch is optionaland what to eat too? mostly so too, but not as clear cut:brow :huh
Click to expand...
"we not a gang, we a club!"
 
Do yourself a favor.
There must be several BMW dealerships in Southern California that you could take the bike for an inspection. I am sure people from some of the local clubs could refer you to a reputable place. Let a seasoned tech ride the machine. Have them check the fluids, brake pads, final drive for wobble, and so on.
Unless you are a wrench yourself, you can amortize the costs over the time you have the bike.

I bought a used 2001 R1100RL, and I had had two different techs ride the bike after I rode the bike. They loved it.

On the other hand, I had an offer on a R850R, and the dealership found a final drive issue that I and the current owner did not. The owner fixed the bike and kept it.

I do, however, agree with other posts in looking at R1150RT's and R12RT's.
The sixth gear is nice. But then again, how fast do you ride anyway?
 
ultracyclist said:
Do yourself a favor.
There must be several BMW dealerships in Southern California that you could take the bike for an inspection. I am sure people from some of the local clubs could refer you to a reputable place. Let a seasoned tech ride the machine. Have them check the fluids, brake pads, final drive for wobble, and so on.
Unless you are a wrench yourself, you can amortize the costs over the time you have the bike.

I bought a used 2001 R1100RL, and I had had two different techs ride the bike after I rode the bike. They loved it.

On the other hand, I had an offer on a R850R, and the dealership found a final drive issue that I and the current owner did not. The owner fixed the bike and kept it.

I do, however, agree with other posts in looking at R1150RT's and R12RT's.
The sixth gear is nice. But then again, how fast do you ride anyway?
Click to expand...

weeellll..... I chicken out at 110.........bikes good fer 123 :burnout
 
01 r11rt

jeremell said:
I recommend test driving an 1150RT first. You'll appreciate the better power and the six speed.
Click to expand...

I agree...that 6th gear is worth every penny. I wouldn't buy a bike without one. I've test driven a R1150R and the gearing is smooth and has a great feel to it. My K1200S and my wife's F800ST both have 6 speeds and it's incredible. Zoom Zoom

cbcK1200S
Colin
:bikes
 
These six speed transmissions...is the numerical ratio of the top gear the same as the top gear in a five speed tranny?
 
jingdog said:
These six speed transmissions...is the numerical ratio of the top gear the same as the top gear in a five speed tranny?
Click to expand...

yes according to internet specs 1:2.91 ending ratio for both 5 and 6 Speed. So....you get to shift more with a 6 sp.

worms... can... open.............................
 
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