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Stuck oil filter

After changing the oil in my 04 gs at least 21 times in 70,000 miles I had one stick last night. 20 minute job 5 hours and still working on it. I stripped the filter so I bought a clamping ratchet wrench and it tore the filter so I stuck a screw driver through it and tore it more. Hours later after pulling almost all of the filter out with needle nose I got to the top and those 6 little slots and tried to twist the top out with needle nose. After two broken needle nose pliers I am at a loss. What to do now, haul to dealer and pay to have the engine cracked? That would cost about $700.00 or more. What I'm thinking it making a plate with six screws the size of the hole and using the new filter for a template and welding a nut on the plate Screwing the plate into those slots and then using a socket to try and remove the last 10th of an inch of filter stuck on the nut. Question why would this filter stick like this, did I tighten it to much or possible mis thread. I don't believe I did either but something went wrong. Help in Pa.

Brett Endress
Altoona PA.
 
You do own the prober METAL filter wrench right? Never, EVER seen an issue if it was in right.

i was gonna say, breaker bar on one of these should be all you need if it's on there REAL tight.

i remember it always felt like i was accidentally tightening my filter when i took it off, but i think it was just the big seal sticking a bit.
 
Yes I did oil the top with fresh oil and use the BMW wrench specific for the bike from Bob's and it stripped without any effort taking it off. I'm going to have to make that plate to get the rest of it out, I talked to an auto mechanic that can do the welding when I get the template. I just hope I didn't cross thread it. I've never had this problem and I change oil on all five of my bikes and five cars
(I have three girls) that drive so I'm familiar with everything I should do. Could it have melted the gasket and welded to the block? The bike never got hot and I just did this oil change six weeks ago or 3000 miles

Brett Endress
Altoona PA
 
let us know how it goes

seems to be it'd be pretty hard to cross thread one of these, considering the coarseness of the threads.

:lurk
 
Wow, I have had a few stick on my 94 oilhead a few times, but never that bad. When I install the new filter, I always oil the new seal on the filter itself, before threading it onto the stud on the engine block.

Then I run it up until I get firm resistance just turning it with my fingers. Then no more than 1/2 turn from that point is all that is needed. The oil seal swells with heat and increases the hold on the filter. I have never had one loosen or leak, and I can always get the old one off with the filter cup wrench I have.
 
Reminds of that line in Forerst Gump oh man you just step in a pile of .....it happens.

I have seen this many times, not to worry. It sounds worse then it is but here is how to remove what I can only imagine a twisted mess.

A long semi sharp to sharp metal chisel at least 8-12" by 1/2 wide. A hammer and a very steady and careful hand. Angle the chisel at a 45 degree angle or there about and dig into the outer most area of the oil filter and tap it around counter clockwise. You may need to hit it hard at break it loose but it will come loose.
You may have to block up the bike to get it higher off the ground, but that depends on the chisel length and how hard you need to wack it.

I have done this 50+ times on just about every type of road vehicle I can imagine, it always works....

Remember the very steady hand, only hit the chisel with the hammer and only hit the oil filter with the chisel...or you will be going to the dealer.
 
Yuck. I've had luck with the chisel method, or needle nose vice grips if they will fit in
the slots. Clamp it down tight, then grab the vice grips with a big pair of pliers and
whack it with a hammer. The shock is more likely to loosen it than steady pressure.
Good luck.
 
I have done this 50+ times on just about every type of road vehicle I can imagine, it always works....

The mangled remains are at the bottom (top?) of a 6 inch deep recess that is not much wider/deeper than the filter itself. I don't see how the chisel could be angled in a way that would generate enough torque.
 
Three days and still not done. I'm going to try the plate my friend is making for me tonight and if that does not work the Chisel is next. Thanks for the info and the advise. I will remember after this that 1/2 turn to tighten no more LOL I hope in the end.
Thanks
Brett Endress
Altoona PA
 
I saved the 70 or so pieces and if I get the rest out tonight I plan on posting a picture of it all so everyone can have a good laugh at my expense. If I don't get it out I'll post a pic of the stuck part for advise. Thanks

Brett Endress
Altoona pa
 
I just did this oil change six weeks ago or 3000 miles

Brett Endress
Altoona PA

Brett- the above situation is the source of your problem. It's the filter's way of saying "i like it here! why are you trying to evict me so soon? I was just starting to get comfy. Next time, let me hang out here for the full 6,000 miles of recommended service life."

remember, there is always another way to look at any dire situation- and a touch of humor never (well, hardly never) hurts.
 
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After all the drama I went and bought a new pair of good needle nose and went home. While waiting for the friend to bring the tool he made over I decided to try once more and stuck the needle nose up in the whole and into the slots and used my breaker bar between the handles. The last piece spun right out with ease. I believe this is because the bike was cold and sitting in the shade of my garage compared to hot when it stuck. Anyway after all the drama the threads and all were perfect and the new filter spun on with ease and only got a half turn after finger tight and the bike is back on the road. Thanks everyone for the advise and in the end patience and time were the keys

Brett Endress
Altoona PA
 
I had one stick...once...even though it was torqued to spec. (my bike sits all winter and then the first oil change will be later the next season)

All you had to do is drill 6 holes in your cast BMW oil filter socket, one at each of the injection mold locations and screwed 6 self tapping sheet metal screws into the filter through those 6 holes.

Works like a charm.

I now use Dow Corning Vacuum Grease on the oil filter seal.
 
I got mine off and reinstalled with a chunk of sandpaper, 60 grit, stuck inside the plastic wrench. Kept from slipping and allowed lots more torq to be applied.
 
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