Winter wrenching plans - n0obie with an '83 R100

[mehollop]

Since surgery and the weather are about to lay me/the bike up for the winter here in Northern MN, I'm trying to figure out how to prep for the work I likely have ahead of me.

From reading other winterizing threads, I know that I need to get out tomorrow and do a warm-up run so I can do one last oil/filter change. (If it helps any, I've successfully gotten my '82 Honda CX500 through three winters up here - it's just my first winter with the Beemer.)

However, when it comes to the fuel tank, I'm not sure what to do. I have some wiring gremlins to track down (my horn(s) don't work...), some carb/enricher work to do (the right side is dribbling gas when it's not running, and the bike is pretty hard to start), and I'm planning to replace the fuel lines as well. One way or the other, I think the tank needs to come off, so it needs to be empty. How do I keep anything bad from happening to it while it's empty?

Also, will I be needing any specialized tools to work on the carbs? Favorite places to order parts? Favorite forum threads for advice that's already typed up?

Thanks much.

 

[20774]

Welcome to the forum! Stay warm up there in the Great White North...I see that it has gone below freezing up there already.

As for carb overhauls, it's relatively simple...not real special tools or procedures unless you're planning on removing the throttle butterflies...IMO it's something that is not routinely done. But check the Carb Tuning and Overhaul section of the link in my signature line for discussions of carb work. As for parts, I think the Bing company in Kansas and your dealer are your sources for parts. I understand that the dealer is actually cheaper than Bing. Go figure!

Re: the tank...if you must keep it empty, then seems to me the best bet would be to completely drain it, fill it with water to continue to neutralize the remaining fuel, then drain it again and run some air through there to dry out the water. Another option after that might be to fog the interior of the tank with something like WD-40 but I'm not sure how to do that. Maybe just get a longer nozzle and just drain an entire can while moving the nozzle around...then pick the tank up and roll it around so the liquid has a change to run around the surface. Then you will have to go through a cleaning process in the spring.

Why do you think the tank needs to be empty? What have you been doing to the Honda tank? I would think that if you prepared the tank by having it completely full and stored the tank in an upright position, it would be the same as if it stayed on the bike for the winter. No real chance of the fuel freezing, right?

 

[brewmeister]

As for the fuel ,I fill it with no alchohol gas and treat it with fuel stabilizer then I drain the carbs and I spray the whole bike down after a good wash /dry job with silicone spray. The battery is connected to a battery tender Jr.The bags and seat are placed in the basement on a shelf.Next,get out and fire up the snow blower.... Storing in heated space is the ultimate if possible.

 

[James.A]

I like Kurt's suggestions. Another option would be to anoint the inside with kerosene (as opposed to WD-40), then dump out the fluid amount, then let it air dry for a couple of days. after the petrol smell is completely gone, you might consider storing it in a controlled environment with the cap in place. (indoors) As you know, the effect of heating your home drives moisture out of the air inside.

 

[godfather]

Welcome! You will find this forum a great resource, lots of really knowledgeable airheads here.

Rebuilding the carbs is no big thing..A couple of wrenches and screwdrivers are all the tools needed. You can get the Bing book and or get several articles and videos online. Read/watch and understand them. Work systematically (one carb at a time) Take plenty of pictures to help with reassembly. It really is easy. I did my first rebuild last winter.

I bought the gallon can carb/parts cleaner from a local auto parts store and the rebuild kits from Max's. I did have to replace one needle retaining clip. Two evenings work and voila...done.

As for the tank. If you have someplace warm, like a heated garage, fill the tank and use your favorite fuel stabilizer. put it out of the way and wait until spring. One of the foldable plastic saw horses works well to hold the tank. I put a folded old towel on the saw horse so the paint does not get buggered up.

If you do not have the luxury of a heated storage space, then any one of the previous mentioned ideas is excellent.

.......If you're going to be rebuilding the carbs, I would suggest draining the tank regardless, removing the petcocks and cleaning the tank and screens...plus replacing old fuel lines before reassembly.

Have fun.

 

[mehollop]

Why do you think the tank needs to be empty? What have you been doing to the Honda tank? I would think that if you prepared the tank by having it completely full and stored the tank in an upright position, it would be the same as if it stayed on the bike for the winter. No real chance of the fuel freezing, right?

Mostly I was planning to empty it to make it easier to move around. Most of my wiring is buried under the tank, so it needs to come off if I'm going to have any luck tracking down the gremlins.

With the Honda, I have been keeping the tank on the bike & full for the winters - and I plan to do so in the future on this bike, just not this year since I have some work to do under it. To be honest, I haven't really looked at how it's attached or how it can be plugged to store off the bike... the thought hadn't even crossed my mind!

As for freezing - there's probably not a chance for the fuel freezing in quantity, but we did have a stretch of weather last winter that froze the gas lines in two of our cars.

 

[godfather]

to remove the tank..first remove the seat or at least raise it up>
be sure petcocks are in the off position>disconnect the fuel line from the petcocks>

There are two fasteners either wing nuts or round pedal shape fasteners that hold the rear of the tank down to the frame.
These can be a bit hard to reach if you have large hands. Remove these.
While holding the front of the tank, lift the back off of the threaded studs>once the tank has cleared the studs you can lift the tank while moving it to the rear of the bike...this will clear the front mounting bracket that the tank just slips over and rests on.
The process will take all of two minutes at best.

Now you can get to the wiring, relays, coils etc...

You can see the two studs at the rear of the backbone.



Get yourself a Clymer manual for the bike...they have great photos and pretty clear directions...albiet not always accurate torque specs..BEWARE

 

[mehollop]

Awesome - thank you for the photo & description. I've got both the Clymer and Haynes manuals - will agree that the Clymer looks far more helpful.

Changed the oil today - will try to do most of the disassembly tomorrow while it's still 'warm'.

 

[ocoinji]

As far as the tank is concerned, what is wrong with draining the tank and bringing it indoors for the winter? There is no concern of condensation or anything. As long as you have a dry environment, no worries.

 

[mehollop]

Jim - that's what I was hoping to do. Should work out, I think.

 

[SCBuckeye]

As far as the tank is concerned, what is wrong with draining the tank and bringing it indoors for the winter? There is no concern of condensation or anything. As long as you have a dry environment, no worries.

Snowbum recommends that, as I recall. Even putting it over the air vent for the warm dry air. Of course, leaving the taps and lid open to allow air to circulate. My wife would have a problem with this procedure, however.

 

[mehollop]

Disassembly was a success. Will let things air out in the garage for a few days before moving them to the basement (where the furnace lives, and is quite dry in the winter).
Hesitant to monopolize a heat vent, as a) the whole-house humidifier also uses those vents, and b) we need all the heating power we can get in this 100+ year old house when it gets cold!

Eventually I'll take over the dining room table for the rebuild process. Good thing I'm the wife!

 

[67986]

winter storage - carb dribbling

On my /5 the left carb was also dribbling sometimes when the bike was not running.
I was thinking in the direction of a carb issue, float level etc.
It was the fuel petcock at the tank that was not always sealing properly.

A new petcock rebuild kit solved the problem.

It's something else to check before pulling the carbs apart.

Bob

 

[m_stock10506]

On my /5 the left carb was also dribbling sometimes when the bike was not running.
I was thinking in the direction of a carb issue, float level etc.
It was the fuel petcock at the tank that was not always sealing properly.

A new petcock rebuild kit solved the problem.

Bob

Even though the petcock rebuild fixed the dribble, you still have a problem there. Even if you don't shut the petcock flow (which you always should do) the float mechanism should shut the flow of fuel. If you were getting a drip of gas it was because the gas that got past the petcock was also getting past the float needle shut off. There is still a problem with float, float level or needle existing in there.