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Stripped threads on Rear MudGuard mounting holes

scootrp125x

They call me Gort
My new to me 2013 R1200GSW seems to have two of three screw hole threads stripped that hold the rear mudguard to the final drive. I have been doing maintenance that the previous owner should have done, new tires, brake pads, brake fluid replacement etc. I had to remove the rear mud guard several times. The front screw was missing so I ordered another one from the BMW dealer. I screwed it in and could tell that the threads were stripped. It seems that the middle screw threads are in about the same condition.

Anyone else have this problem and have a good solution? Can the holes be tapped, if so what tap size would I buy? Next size up maybe and a bigger diameter screw? What size would that be? I would like to use the original screws. Would a heli-coil work? I have never installed one but it should be possible although the hole does not seem very deep.

Do I really need the mudguard anyway? Is it only necessary for muddy off road riding? I'm a purely street rider and won't be going off road.

Thanks, Mark
 

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Yes those may be tapped. But I would save myself a bit of work. I would find some "self-tapping" screws the right length that almost but not quite fit and use them.
 
What Paul said, and if that doesn't work, then helicoil. The swingarm is Aluminum, so there's that issue to deal with.

The mudguard keeps the back of the bike and luggage cleaner, wet or mud. That's about it. Also prevents kicking up as much spray for those behind you. Necessary? No.
 
What Paul said, and if that doesn't work, then helicoil. The swingarm is Aluminum, so there's that issue to deal with.

The mudguard keeps the back of the bike and luggage cleaner, wet or mud. That's about it. Also prevents kicking up as much spray for those behind you. Necessary? No.

Thanks. I wondered what soft metal the swingarm was made of.
 
When I bought my GSA I removed the mud guard because I think it looks weird. Rode in the rain and realized how well it helped keep the water and mud from spraying up on me! It went right back on the bike. I still think it looks weird.
 
The middle hole on mine got stripped during a tire change, it might even have been me that did it. I don't trust myself to do a helicoil so I asked the dealer, the tech said there wasn't enough meat there to install one, so I left it alone. The remaining two worked fine for 10s of thousands of miles, but somewhere along the Trans-Lab there was enough vibration that the mudguard finally broke off - the fasteners were still there, they just weren't holding anything on. I could really tell the performance difference when the bike got 1 lb lighter!!
 
The middle hole on mine got stripped during a tire change, it might even have been me that did it. I don't trust myself to do a helicoil so I asked the dealer, the tech said there wasn't enough meat there to install one, so I left it alone. The remaining two worked fine for 10s of thousands of miles, but somewhere along the Trans-Lab there was enough vibration that the mudguard finally broke off - the fasteners were still there, they just weren't holding anything on. I could really tell the performance difference when the bike got 1 lb lighter!!

Thanks. I'm down to 1 screw that isn't stripped. I will try to find a self tapping screw that will work.
 
Can JB Weld be tapped? I might be able to put JB Weld inside the screw holes.
What kind of tap would I buy for these screws, 6MM x 1.0?
 
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I too have buggered up the occasional thread when replacing my windscreen or fender, where the threads are in an alloy casting rather than a steel fitting (as with most of the body panel screws). A 5.0mm X 0.80 tap will make it right again.
 
I too have buggered up the occasional thread when replacing my windscreen or fender, where the threads are in an alloy casting rather than a steel fitting (as with most of the body panel screws). A 5.0mm X 0.80 tap will make it right again.

I have one of those taps for my RT, it comes in handy often! Those screws are M5. These are M6. Would a 6.00mm X 1.00 tap be correct for these screws?
 
When you say "stripped", do you mean the bolt just spins in the hole and won't tighten or is it difficult to thread in all the way? If it is the latter a tap will likely help you out. It it is the former, you should install a thread insert rather than a self-tapping bolt.

I'd be wary of a self-tapping bolt. If it is too small it will not bite and hold. If it is too large you risk cracking the housing.

The proper fix is a heli-coil or other thread insert. It can be done in about 15 minutes and will last if done properly. If you are not equipped to install one, go to an independent auto shop or machine shop and ask if they would do it. It is very commonplace.
 
When you say "stripped", do you mean the bolt just spins in the hole and won't tighten or is it difficult to thread in all the way? If it is the latter a tap will likely help you out. It it is the former, you should install a thread insert rather than a self-tapping bolt.

I'd be wary of a self-tapping bolt. If it is too small it will not bite and hold. If it is too large you risk cracking the housing.

The proper fix is a heli-coil or other thread insert. It can be done in about 15 minutes and will last if done properly. If you are not equipped to install one, go to an independent auto shop or machine shop and ask if they would do it. It is very commonplace.

Yes, the bolt spins in the hole. And the hole does not appear to be too deep, maybe 1/4 of an inch or so, not much to work with. It's in the swingarm which is made of aluminum. I would like to use the original bolts. I just found this JB Weld product that says it can be tapped. This might be what I'm looking for.
 

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