Clutch on 2015 with 46,000 miles. Questions.

[captainmarko]

A few times recently, when in a higher gear (4-6) if I get hard on the throttle, I can feel the clutch slipping. Revs go up a bit, then it'll catch and it's back to normal.

I'm thinking of replacing it with a Rekluse clutch pack when I do the 48k service. Doesn't seem too crazy difficult. But I've got a couple questions.

1. Clutch is functioning normally 99% of the time. Think it'll be okay to wait for another 2k miles before replacing it? All my riding is an 18 mile round trip commute in Las Vegas. So...about 4-5 months if all I do is go to work. Perfect timing seasonally speaking.

2. Clutch basket is only supposed to be replaced if inspection reveals damage. Should I order a clutch basket just in case?

3. In some videos I see the gasket that comes with the Rekluse kit being used. In others a Permatex type tube of gasket material. Seems like the manufactured gasket would be simpler and less room for error. Any reason to not use the one that comes with the kit?

4. My lift has a Trackside front wheel chock to replace the subpar one that it came with. Most of the service videos I see, the bike is on a lift, on the center stand. Obviously, once it's in the chock, it's going to be difficult if not impossible (?) to get on the center stand. And it seems like the front wheel/fender should come off to get better access to the breastplate.

Soooooo....remove the Trackside chock, get the bike on the center stand on the lift, weight down the rear wheel, and strap the bike down?

Sorry if this seems like an idiot question, but I have been teaching myself how to work on the bike since I got it. With the help of Boxflyers videos, I've managed all of my valve checks, cam timing checks, made my own cam chain tensioner tool....everything involved in the big interval services. Really want to do this job, but don't want to screw anything up in the process.

All advice is appreciated!

 

[Omega Man]

This recent thread may be of interest-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...utch-slipping-in-high-gears-when-accelerating

OM

 

[captainmarko]

This recent thread may be of interest-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...utch-slipping-in-high-gears-when-accelerating

OM

Yep. I've been following that one.

 

[88bmwjeff]

2. Clutch basket is only supposed to be replaced if inspection reveals damage. Should I order a clutch basket just in case?

That depends on you. If you're patient and don't mind waiting the extra time to order a basket, then I would wait. However, if time is of the essence and you really can't afford having the bike down for the extra time to get a basket, then order one. If you are going to order one, you might want to ask about the dealer's return policy.

 

[BC1100S]

If its fine 99% of the time, you should be ok to delay the work. Just don't be abusing it. If it starts to get worse then I'd do the job sooner than later.

I believe the Rekluse kit comes with inserts which fit over the clutch basket fingers. Should negate the need for a basket IF there is only slight wear or denting of the fingers. Also, I think I'd use the supplied gasket.

Were I be doing this job, I'd remove the chock and put your bike on the centrestand on your lift. Put a small jack under the motor to assist with keeping the front end in the air. With the weight distribution of the bike its a very small load on the jack.

I'd be interested to hear the results!

 

[oldcamper]

Wet clutches have been around a long time and their materials and construction are fairly generic. I’d put a set of aftermarket friction plates in (about $50 on eBay) and enjoy the savings. A bike with 50k on it has already lost much of its value anyway and wet clutches are usually not hard to replace. Just ask any dirt bike rider.

 

[pglaves]

....wet clutches are usually not hard to replace. Just ask any dirt bike rider.

During the 2003 11 day Iron Butt Rally a rider slipped his clutch a lot getting out of the mud at the edge of the playa on the Black Rock Desert at Gerlach, Nevada. (The home of Burning Man, by the way.) He wore the clutch sufficiently that it would not firmly engage. After a consultation by telephone with his rather creative mechanic back in Minnesota he disassembled the clutch and carefully cut a shim out of the lid of a coffee can. He reassembled the clutch, with the shim, and completed the next nine days of the rally.

 

[windsailor97]

Wet clutches have been around a long time and their materials and construction are fairly generic. I’d put a set of aftermarket friction plates in (about $50 on eBay) and enjoy the savings. A bike with 50k on it has already lost much of its value anyway and wet clutches are usually not hard to replace. Just ask any dirt bike rider.

This is my perspective. I would like to hear from someone here that has successfully used the EBay friction plates. Anyone?

 

[alegerlotz]

On a ride yesterday my clutch started having the showing the same symptoms of the OPs. I have 55K miles on my 2016 RT. I'm curious as to what you did on your bike. Did you go OEM, eBay, or Rekluse?

I will do the job myself and I'm trying to decide whether to go OEM or Rekluse.

I am also curious if you needed any special tools to do this or not. I believe the shop manual DVD mentions a tool to keep the engine from turning.

 

[jbinaz]

Realize this is a bit late but might help someone. On my 2013 Wethead GS the clutch failed in similar fashion before 20K (I was the second owner). They are known to be problematic on the early wetheads. I replaced it myself with the Rekluse kit and it absolutely transformed the bike. Seriously those clutches work beautifully. Much cleaner engagement, disengagement and ease of shifting. Highly recommended.

It's not a difficult job, just take your time and make sure you follow the proper order on the clutch plates. There is a great YouTube video by a guy who did it on a GS that a watched a few times.

I have a 2018 R1200R which runs perfectly but recently picked up a 2015 RT with 32K and I can tell just from the feel and limited free play that I will be needing to do the clutch at some point, probably by 40K or so.. and will definitely use the Rekluse kit on it.

 

[BC1100S]

Thanks for this report on the Rekluse clutch. Much appreciated.

 

[captainmarko]

Realize this is a bit late but might help someone. On my 2013 Wethead GS the clutch failed in similar fashion before 20K (I was the second owner). They are known to be problematic on the early wetheads. I replaced it myself with the Rekluse kit and it absolutely transformed the bike. Seriously those clutches work beautifully. Much cleaner engagement, disengagement and ease of shifting. Highly recommended.

It's not a difficult job, just take your time and make sure you follow the proper order on the clutch plates. There is a great YouTube video by a guy who did it on a GS that a watched a few times.

I have a 2018 R1200R which runs perfectly but recently picked up a 2015 RT with 32K and I can tell just from the feel and limited free play that I will be needing to do the clutch at some point, probably by 40K or so.. and will definitely use the Rekluse kit on it.

Thanks for that. I've got a whole new OEM clutch pack coming. Rekluse is pretty adamant about not putting the plates in if the basket is damaged at all, so to be safe, I've ordered a whole new clutch, and I'm having the dealer install it, and I'll have them replace the OEM plates with the Rekluse plates. Those inserts they provide will go in a brand new basket and prevent any damage so when it wears out again, I can do the job myself.

 

[oldcamper]

I have heat warped the plates in a couple of dirt bike clutches through serious abuse, but have never actually worn one out. But then, I’ve been driving manual transmission cars and trucks all my life.

How do those friction plates get worn, anyway? Is lots of clutch slipping involved?
I remember reading that “friction modifier” oil was detrimental to wet clutches. Is that a common problem?

 

[pauls1150]

Worn plates can be caused by mis-adjustment, but the most frequent cause is the nut holding the handlebars.
Using the "wrong" oil in a clutch - or this case, the engine, since everything shares the same oil - will also cause slippage; BMW is quite finicky about what we can put in there... for good reason.
I seem to recall that over-filling the crankcase will do that too, but I can't confirm this.

 

[BC1100S]

I'll go out on a limb and suggest that, 1. City/suburban riding may have something to do with faster-than-Normal wear. Much more frequent starts and stops may contribute to accelerated wear, and 2. In combination with the above, does the rider remain in gear while holding the clutch lever while waiting at a stop light? As wet clutches never completely and totally disengage the friction plates, could this be the source of more wear than expected/normal?

Just a theory, of course.

 

[tsconver]

You should always leave it in gear at stop light in case you need to move quickly.

That being said I have never worn out a wet clutch on multiple bikes and I have always stayed in gear at stops and ride in city traffic. Only way to really damage a wet clutch is to slip it at high rpm. Low rpm slipping will not harm them.

 

[pauls1150]

Have to agree with Shawn on both points, except that it could be damaged by running it dry...

 

[BC1100S]

You should always leave it in gear at stop light in case you need to move quickly.

Says you.

Kind of hard to "move quickly" when you're in traffic with cars in front, behind and on both sides of you.

 

[pauls1150]

With the 4 in his call sign, Shawn probably can't white-line (legally)... but I can!

 

[tsconver]

With the 4 in his call sign, Shawn probably can't white-line (legally)... but I can!

We are trying to get filtering. Lol