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pardon my ignorance

It was. I just presumed he meant the GT, since it's in his signature. He simply typed like I usually do....:gerg

Well, if so, I stand corrected. Even so, the green stuff has to be changed and back then every two years or 24K miles, whichever came first. Leave it in too long and it goes to crap. Now I think the green stuff is good for a lot longer.
 
Yup. GT not GS. I actually bought a GS-750 4 stroke when they first came out. Nice bike but a throttle like a wall switch. Traded it next year for a GS-1000 also a nice bike. Both air-cooled by the way. I agree the technology has changed over the years but I still like the simplicity of air cooled bikes as you never run out of coolant and most maintenance items are simpler except clutches on BMW bikes. I lost a clutch on a GS1150 riding from Oregon to New Mexico in St. George Utah and changed the clutch and steel plates in a dirt parking lot in about an hour. I wouldn't dream of trying that on my RT and that's why I carry an extended warranty.
 
Don't take this wrong but I can't even begin to comprehend how you can relate a 71ish Suzuki water-buffalo to a modern technology BMW 42 years later.

Literally - everything has changed on the technology used from then to now.

I understand it completely and for one thing I have an aluminum engine Mercedes for which the coolant change interval is 15 years. Of course that's not PepBoys coolant. But bringing 1970s USA technology to forums on German vehicles happens a lot but heaven knows why.
 
Yup. GT not GS. I actually bought a GS-750 4 stroke when they first came out. Nice bike but a throttle like a wall switch. Traded it next year for a GS-1000 also a nice bike. Both air-cooled by the way. I agree the technology has changed over the years but I still like the simplicity of air cooled bikes as you never run out of coolant and most maintenance items are simpler except clutches on BMW bikes. I lost a clutch on a GS1150 riding from Oregon to New Mexico in St. George Utah and changed the clutch and steel plates in a dirt parking lot in about an hour. I wouldn't dream of trying that on my RT and that's why I carry an extended warranty.

My first bike was a KZ1000. I loved the bike, wish I still had it. Like you said, simple as a rock and easy to work on. My one complaint though was the charging system. If it wasn't ridden often enough or it got below 40-45, it didn't like to start. Thank god it had a kick start.
 
The idea that any type of modern machine has serious galvanic corrosion or electrolysis problems is not very plauisble though as was pointed out it did happen on older machines.

Anything that creates an electrical path through a mixed metals environment can cause problems eventually but a good materials review during design and use of a decent coolant with anti-corrosives suitable for the metals does the rest. Don't forget what is probably the biggest contributor to preventing both deposits and corrosion in cooling systems, the use of modern vented but full (overflow type) cooling systems so there is no significant amount of oxygen at the radiator top constantly being refreshed and then circulated as the engine heats and cools..that change alone has made specialty radiator shops which used to be common almost non existent..

Happily running some stuff 30 years old with lots of aluminum
 
I've never been convinced liquid cooled equals better. I've owned both and personally prefer air cooled to liquid although liquid would certainly not stop me from being a buyer. Now header pipes on a boxer pointing to the ground immediately as they leave the exhaust port? I call that weird but I imagine we'll all get used to it. Probably not a show stopper.

Yes, and one major drawback is service cost...the $126.95 cost per quart of Special QX7 BMW Water/Coolant (available only at your BMW authorized dealer), the only officially recommended coolant, is a little salty....LOL
 
Yes, and one major drawback is service cost...the $126.95 cost per quart of Special QX7 BMW Water/Coolant (available only at your BMW authorized dealer), the only officially recommended coolant, is a little salty....LOL

The kit to do the timing belt on my Jetta was just a little more than that and it included a water pump, thermostat and housing, serpentine belt, idler pulley, seals AND the Pentosin coolant.
 
Yes, and one major drawback is service cost...the $126.95 cost per quart of Special QX7 BMW Water/Coolant (available only at your BMW authorized dealer), the only officially recommended coolant, is a little salty....LOL

So what's the specified change interval?
 
So what's the specified change interval?

If it's like the VW, never per se, but it does have to be done when the timing belt is done as the water pump is replaced at that time. I don't know if BMWs are the same, but that might be it.
 
Isn't anyone here familiar with the term "electrolysis"? I once had a water cooled motorcycle. NEVER AGAIN!

Given that ever currently made automobile sold in this country is water cooled, I'd say the problem is manageable. I had a 1985 K100 for 22 years with zero cooling system problems.
 
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