Neutral Switch (Transmission) - R100 GS

[52184]

Rather than taper the hole in the spacer, I find it easier to use a tapered pin to align the spacer on reinsertion. The pin is made from a long bolt with the threaded portion cut off and then gradually tapered to about 5mm in diameter at the point.

Be very cautious about shortening that spacer as the crankcase housing is one cast piece and the spacer fits snugly for a reason. A small taper filed on the leading edge is usually enough to get the spacer started so it can be tapped home.

Best,
DeVern

 

[20774]

I had read that reinserting the spacer is made easier by putting it in the freezer for a few hours. That doesn't help the next time it has to come out, so maybe cutting a skoosh off the ends would be helpful.

 

[globalrider]

Be very cautious about shortening that spacer as the crankcase housing is one cast piece and the spacer fits snugly for a reason.

As I mentioned above, I shaved off a hair and at that it still needed a tapping in and fit snugly. I know about castings and cracks but luckily not from experience.

 

[globalrider]

I had read that reinserting the spacer is made easier by putting it in the freezer for a few hours.

Yup, you can "drop" bearings into hubs that way. In fact bearing into the freezer and warm up the hub as well in an oven.

 

[globalrider]

One thing lead to another and when you need to take the rear wheel off so that the middle muffler can be removed, you tend to clean up the drum in the wheel and brake shoe area while you have them off.





All together again and 100% leak free.

As for replacing the neutral switch, I can see inserting the push-on terminals with it in place and nothing removed could be next to impossible, especially if they are a tight fit as mine were. But I wonder if shops don't install the neutral switch without removing anything and just having a self made and bent 19mm wrench to loosen it and tighten it. As long as you get it started, you are home free.