r60celo5
New member
Good evening.
Today I spent quite a few hours of quality time with my r60/5.... On the damn driveway going over the wiring and other things!!! I should have been riding!!
Issue:.....I can hit the start button and engage the starter even when the engine is running. Discovered this accidentally. (Bad grinding noise).
How it all started:
Lately I have noticed that the battery (1 year old) can only handle a handful times of cracking the starter. Also had noticed that, sometimes, the red charging light does not come on when interesting the key.
So I started looking for a short. I got about 12.7v between battery posts. Then I disconnected the ground, with the key off, I got about 4v from negative battery post (disconnected) and frame.
Why would there be any power making it's way to the wiring and eventually the frame? That to me says there is continuity from the positive to frame and if I connect the negative battery post there would be a drain (key is off). I have the wiring diagram and traced and looked over all switches light bulbs Etc.
Started tracing wires and finally found that if I disconnect the red wire from the diode board I get 0v between the disconnected negative battery post and frame. Great!!
Thought I might have shortened the diode board. So I went to replace it with a spare one I have. Well now instead of 4v I got 12.7v between the disconnected negative battery post and frame. (Key off).
I had previously replaced the 180 watt charging system of the /5 (rotor, alternator, diode board) with a 280 watt from an early /6 (105mm stator).
The spare diode board was the /5 one without the "Y" terminal and at about 3000 rpm I get about 13.5v at battery I guess it's still charging.
Today I spent quite a few hours of quality time with my r60/5.... On the damn driveway going over the wiring and other things!!! I should have been riding!!
Issue:.....I can hit the start button and engage the starter even when the engine is running. Discovered this accidentally. (Bad grinding noise).
How it all started:
Lately I have noticed that the battery (1 year old) can only handle a handful times of cracking the starter. Also had noticed that, sometimes, the red charging light does not come on when interesting the key.
So I started looking for a short. I got about 12.7v between battery posts. Then I disconnected the ground, with the key off, I got about 4v from negative battery post (disconnected) and frame.
Why would there be any power making it's way to the wiring and eventually the frame? That to me says there is continuity from the positive to frame and if I connect the negative battery post there would be a drain (key is off). I have the wiring diagram and traced and looked over all switches light bulbs Etc.
Started tracing wires and finally found that if I disconnect the red wire from the diode board I get 0v between the disconnected negative battery post and frame. Great!!
Thought I might have shortened the diode board. So I went to replace it with a spare one I have. Well now instead of 4v I got 12.7v between the disconnected negative battery post and frame. (Key off).
I had previously replaced the 180 watt charging system of the /5 (rotor, alternator, diode board) with a 280 watt from an early /6 (105mm stator).
The spare diode board was the /5 one without the "Y" terminal and at about 3000 rpm I get about 13.5v at battery I guess it's still charging.