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2015 RT Oil Change: Basic Info Needed

Just changed the oil last night... Man that filter was on there tight.
Normally when I change a filter for the first time, and there is a lack of space to get a filter wrench in there (or I don't have the right size), I hammer a screwdriver through the filter near the end and use that as leverage to get it started.
Luckily, the filter wrench for my wife's Acura fit; just barely.
I went hand tight on the new one, but since it is a K&N with the nut welded to the end, I may try torquing it.
 
This is a link that explain installation instruction from the authority in automotive filters in North America, the Filter Manufacturer Council;

http://www.aftermarketsuppliers.org/Councils/Filter-Manufacturers-Council/TSBs-2/English/93-3R1.pdf

Been a professional tech for almost 30 years. I have also never torqued a filter and never had a leak. I simply snug them up tight by hand.

The trick I will pass on is use a little silicone grease on the filter seal Instead of oil. The filter will come loose much easier next oil change. I take them back off by hand usually.
 
Typical crud from an association. The link says tighten per the instructions on the filter box. Good luck on an OEM filter or a Bosch filter. There are no such instructions.

I do not want to start a war but most OE (And certainly not BMW) do not manufacture any filters and btw, Bosch like AC Delco do not make their filters.

Mann + Hummel (a German filter manufacturer) has instructions on the side of their "spin-on" filters. In the case of their MW75 that I am presently looking at, it graphically indicate to tighten 3/4 of a turn after the gasket has made contact with the mounting base.

Mahle (another German filter manufacturer) also has instructions on the side of their spin-on filters. Their part number OC306 indicate to tighten the filter to 20Nm.

The reason manufacturer indicate the required tightening is to make certain the the gasket will seal properly to the base and will not leak under operation with variation of pressure and surges. If the filter is under-tightened the gasket might blow out with a pressure surge. On the other hand is the filter is over-tightened, it can damage the threaded post onto which it is installed and in certain cases the gasket might partially grab the mounting base and stretch the gasket to create a open void and a leak.

Other installation considerations; Only new engine oil should be use to lube the filter's gasket prior to installation. The use of used engine oil can cause the filter's gasket to stick to the mounting base making it difficult to remove. The use of any other lubricant then engine oil to lube the gasket can actually attack the gasket material and compromise it's integrity. The gasket was designed to withstand engine oil primarily.
 
Methinks this is Overthinking 101.
If the Council tells me I need to raise the hood first and where to set my filler cap...I am in trouble:scratch

Have installed a few filters, as many here have done, without a torque wrench and NEVER had a leak, snug to most is 1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact. Have had to remove some baked on over tightened filters NOT installed by me, one being the one that has that half-a**ed nut welded on it that the owner told me he had turned several times.
...except for the time I put a Pontiac filter on my Chevy and the gasket location was way different:banghead But I was 17 as well and mom and dad were not pleased with their 4 qt shiny floor.
 
I don't even tighten the filter to snug! Most would consider the filter loose when I am done with it. After the gasket hits I will give it another 1/2-3/4 turn. If it starts to get snug, I quit. I can easily remove the filter by hand the next time around. I worked in a service garage for a few years during high school and did probably 2-3 oil changes a day besides tires and tune ups. The ornery old tech that was in charge would chew your butt if the filter wouldn't come off by hand the next time.
 
The proper tool for an oil filter install is a "hand." Its people wrenching them on hard that causes all the frustrations and crushed cans when we're trying to take them off! You hope a good mechanic uses a torque wrench on your wheels... but on fairing screws and oil filters? Get real!


+1

I've changed all my oil & filter on my own cars/trucks since I was 16 years old (thanks Dad!). I'm now 60 & still do my own. I have never, EVER used a torque wrench on either a filter or drain plug. Just snug the blessed thing & fill it with oil.

More problems are created with over-torqueing than are by being not tight enough, IMO. If a few drops of oil appear, one can always go back & snug it a hair more.

My .o2
 
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