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unleaded valve seat identification
- Thread starter jforgo
- Start date
J
James.A
Guest
It's really pretty easy. If the edge of the valve is plainly visible above the seat, no problem. If it is close to the seat or sunk into the seat,then there is trouble brewing. You can't tell if the work is done other than the seat sinks the valve or it doesn't. You did not disclose which year or which motor. The exhaust valves on my R75/5 were done at 80K. Do you get several thousand miles between valve adjustments? This is a telling factor. All airheads before 1985 are susceptible but not all get the disease. Like I said, the edge of the valve should be plainly visible. If you need the work and take it to your local "speed shop", You'll get out for around $500.
T
TGHSMITH
Guest
most of the ex . valve replacement seats and valves were done with a 30 degree seat and valve if your heads has them it has been done(factory was 45 degree)
S
sumran
Guest
Polarbear
Polarbear
I'm one lucky;
Onwer of a '78 R100/7 since new and its been fine with the original valves to this day
. Yep, over 300000 miles now and its got to be one tough engine and running so fine still. My only engine upgrades are; bored cylinders at 104K(did not need it) and a new Omega 400w alternator a couple years ago. All else is original. I would love to think my new GSA would have this kind of life, but its not likely,imo...I think BMW used to build great BIKES and today they build bikes. I still love 'em all. Randy
Onwer of a '78 R100/7 since new and its been fine with the original valves to this day
. Yep, over 300000 miles now and its got to be one tough engine and running so fine still. My only engine upgrades are; bored cylinders at 104K(did not need it) and a new Omega 400w alternator a couple years ago. All else is original. I would love to think my new GSA would have this kind of life, but its not likely,imo...I think BMW used to build great BIKES and today they build bikes. I still love 'em all. Randy
L
Langzaiguy
Guest
I have a 1976 R90/6. I have 27k miles on it and I would guess that the conversion has not been done (I am unfamiliar as to what kinda work the PO put into it). Would adding a lead substitute damage the valve seals if the conversion were already done?
S
shire2000
Guest
Stop worrying about it. As you can read, some will last thousands of miles and some won't. Just ride it and if the valves start to need adjustment too often, then get a valve job done. Until then, use it for what it was meant. RIDE ON!
L
Langzaiguy
Guest
Hey Dave, I get what you're saying, and I agree. I just have left over lead substitute, and didn't know if it would be beneficial to use or if I should discard it.
brickrider
BrickRider
If the lead substitute that you have is still in viable form, go ahead and use it. This model did not have nearly the valve problems as the R100 Series.
Considering the swill they sell as gasoline these days, your leftover supply could only help, not hurt.
Ride Safely,
BrickRider
Considering the swill they sell as gasoline these days, your leftover supply could only help, not hurt.
Ride Safely,
BrickRider
S
shire2000
Guest
In my opinion, which may not necessarily mean all that much, if you feel more comfortable using it, go for it. If it is still viable, it definitely can do no harm.
On the other side of the coin. My 79 R100RT went well over 300,000 miles on the original valves. I know because I bought it new and sold it many years later with that many miles on it. The present owner has added another 100,000 miles to it over the past few years and is planning on taking the engine apart for the first time as he is doing a complete restoration on it this summer. So, on that one, over 400,000 miles on a completely original engine that has never been taken apart. Probably pure luck, but what do I know.
My present 1981 R100RT has just ticked 160,000 miles and is still all original, except for the alternator. This bike I bought used and from what I can tell from the last 2 owners, it was not always well taken care of. I expect that I might make the 200,000 mark, but kind of doubt it. I am planning on tearing her down this coming winter to do a complete overhaul (because I can) or trading it in for something else. I love the old airheads, but after riding them for over 35 years, I think I want to try something else. The new BMWs just don't do it for me. Heaven forbid, maybe a Ural with a sidecar. They just kinda look neat and are cheaper than borscht. I hear they throw in a case of Vodka so you have something to drink while waiting for the tow truck.
On the other side of the coin. My 79 R100RT went well over 300,000 miles on the original valves. I know because I bought it new and sold it many years later with that many miles on it. The present owner has added another 100,000 miles to it over the past few years and is planning on taking the engine apart for the first time as he is doing a complete restoration on it this summer. So, on that one, over 400,000 miles on a completely original engine that has never been taken apart. Probably pure luck, but what do I know.
My present 1981 R100RT has just ticked 160,000 miles and is still all original, except for the alternator. This bike I bought used and from what I can tell from the last 2 owners, it was not always well taken care of. I expect that I might make the 200,000 mark, but kind of doubt it. I am planning on tearing her down this coming winter to do a complete overhaul (because I can) or trading it in for something else. I love the old airheads, but after riding them for over 35 years, I think I want to try something else. The new BMWs just don't do it for me. Heaven forbid, maybe a Ural with a sidecar. They just kinda look neat and are cheaper than borscht. I hear they throw in a case of Vodka so you have something to drink while waiting for the tow truck.
