Trying to upgrade my R90/6...please advise

[crazydrummerdude]

The way I always remembered which way to flip the turn signal switch was considering the grips:

Left turn = right grip comes up - flip the switch up
Right turn = right grip goes down - flip the switch down

We must have different switches..

 

[paulfinney2]

I tell myself it is down right up lefting to ride my '76

 

[SANTAROSA]

Black Tie Boxer

Just got an '84 r100 in good running order so this thread is of interest to me and much appreciated. I clicked on "Black Tie Boxer" but pop-up indicates "this file deleted". Does anyone know where else to look for this well respected article? Also, the Metzlers have good tread with very light side wall cracking. My concern is in regard to grip at this point given the years since I last rode a motorcycle. Thank you.

 

[NEALART]

My mantra when I had a 1975 was:

It's a downright crappy switch and it's leftup to me to figure it out.

 

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Just got an '84 r100 in good running order so this thread is of interest to me and much appreciated. I clicked on "Black Tie Boxer" but pop-up indicates "this file deleted". Does anyone know where else to look for this well respected article? ...

I think that article might be copyrighted or something and removed. I seem to recall reading something about that on another post--maybe it wasn't the same article though.

Does anyone know where the article can be found/bought?

 

[20774]

Does anyone know where the article can be found/bought?

It was from the August 1984 issue of Motorcyclist written by Joe Minton. You could check with the magazine and see if they would sell you a back issue.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/index.html

 

[rpeckham136133]

Re: Joe Minton

Request for sources: I have heard the Joe Minton reference several times, did a google with BMW and airheads, and his name comes up, but no links to original works...

Does anybody have any articles that could be scanned and posted... sounds like it would be a valuable sharing of seminal (!) knowledge.

Thanks!

 

[beemerPhil]

My mantra when I had a 1975 was:

It's a downright crappy switch and it's leftup to me to figure it out.

I love this one!

The only thing I'd recommend offhand for your bike, other than finding a competent airhead tech to do a complete A to Z, is a regulator that works. You can get one from Motorad Elektrik, or any good auto electric shop.(ask for a 3-wire Delco-type solid-state regulator) All the stock /6-7 regulators seem to cut out too early; proper maintenance of a 12-volt battery doesn't happen at 13.5 volts, and practically all of the bikes from the 70s & 80s have a hard time starting in cool weather as a result- plus the (expensive!) battery that should last 5-8 years only makes it half that far. Besides, your bike has the best headlight in the industry(at the time)- don't you want to see where you're going?

If you haven't already, replace all the small o-rings in the cv carbs. They make more difference than you think.

Steering head bearings don't last forever, but it takes someone who knows what he's doing to tell the difference. The shop manual and "official" tools are useless here.....find a guy that knows how to do this right. Use a good quality waterproof non-hardening grease.

I got sick of points, been installing and using Dyna III's since the first dual plug jobs I did back in the early 80's. The failure rate is negligible; I ride cross-country on one every year, this one's at least 15, maybe older. Keep the mice out of your wires in the winter and you'll be fine.(Bring your old points with you if you're nervous)

On the subject of dual plugs......great idea, much better solution to crummy gas than the thick base gaskets, makes a very strong engine. Lots of fun! Also pretty expensive...(it really only makes $$ sense together with a top-end re-seal anyway, so it's cost is added to a valve job and rings, etc- expect a bill for $500-1000+ depending on your karma, your mechanic, and how long you put it off. Also, this is NOT AT ALL a job for a novice wrench, or a novice machinist either; there are lots of opportunities to screw up, and the parts involved are expensive. Find someone who's done it successfully a few times before - there's no trophy for guinea pigs, and the cost of new heads will put a cramp in your ride for sure!


Shocks are always worn out, but you'll get an extra couple lifetimes with Koni 7610's; the adjustable damping rate allows you to compensate for tired internals over time. Not anybody's favorite racing shocks, but they work well in general, they're reasonable $$ and they're rebuildable.

I don't get all the hype about fork springs- I have so many sets of in-spec oem BMW fork springs I started making lawn ornaments out of them. They never seem to wear out or collapse (if you can prove otherwise, send me some, but learn how to measure them FIRST) but they always get replaced!
(job security?? )

I like the RS springs- white paint code- or Progressives. They seem to work best for me (235lbs, ride fairly hard and sometimes carry lots of camping stuff) if they're shimmed up about 3/4" with a spacer of pvc tubing, and with a 50/50 mix of 5 and 10-weight PJ-1 fork oil. (BMW fork oil is for sewing machines)
Make sure the fill quantity is accurate, too- BMW allowed for the first inch or 2 of travel to be hydraulic-free, for washboards- and too much will just make the forks stiff and pop seals.

Martini's empty, charcoal's ready....that's all for now. See you in Gillette!

 

[barryg]

I've got a copy of the Black-Tie Boxer by Joe Minton. Hot R100S in a tuxedo, ought to be in a James Bond movie.