I am new to the club (second post) and am trying to learn how to maintain my R90/6 which I bought new in 1975, but have ridden very little over the last three decades. Now that I have time, I want to upgrade it some and I'd like to tap into the wisdom of those who know much more than I. Enough said, would I improve the bike's performance with electronic ignition and if so, what brand/make should I get? How do you feel about dual plugging? Also I am looking into better shocks and have heard progressive springs are better than stock. How complicated is it to change springs? Which of these projects would be better done by a local BMW dealer? Am I overlooking something very basic and cost effective for an R90/6? And, which project is something an novice could do. Please advise. Thanks
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
Trying to upgrade my R90/6...please advise
- Thread starter rbryson
- Start date
MOTOR31
New member
If you are looking for something a novice can do I'd drop the double plugs at this time. You are talking having to have the heads machined for the second plug.
At this time I'd sit down and start to decide what you are trying to accomplish here. Are you looking for better reliability IE. electronic ignition?? Are you looking to make it into a cafe racer and need to increase speed? Are you just looking for firmer suspension and beter handling?
First, my recomendation would be the handling. Updating the suspension is easy and straightforward. You can stiffen the front shocks just by draining them and adding a higher viscosity oil. Ride it and see if that makes an improvement for you. If it isn't enough you can change the springs in the front and go again. After market shocks and fresh springs on the rear can stabilize the rear end. Ride it again and see what you think. Change the tires composition to match what kind of riding you want to do. You can improve braking by cleaning out the front brakes and replacing the lines with metalic braid lines. Maybe change the front pads to a more agressive compound. Check the rear for wear and maybe new pads there as well.
These are the easiest things to do for a new wrench.
After that you can go with the ignition change and start to look at making changes there.
At this time I'd sit down and start to decide what you are trying to accomplish here. Are you looking for better reliability IE. electronic ignition?? Are you looking to make it into a cafe racer and need to increase speed? Are you just looking for firmer suspension and beter handling?
First, my recomendation would be the handling. Updating the suspension is easy and straightforward. You can stiffen the front shocks just by draining them and adding a higher viscosity oil. Ride it and see if that makes an improvement for you. If it isn't enough you can change the springs in the front and go again. After market shocks and fresh springs on the rear can stabilize the rear end. Ride it again and see what you think. Change the tires composition to match what kind of riding you want to do. You can improve braking by cleaning out the front brakes and replacing the lines with metalic braid lines. Maybe change the front pads to a more agressive compound. Check the rear for wear and maybe new pads there as well.
These are the easiest things to do for a new wrench.
After that you can go with the ignition change and start to look at making changes there.
S
ssls6
Guest
rbryson said:
I would make my "job 1" focus to be getting the most from the existing bike. A fresh tune, spline lube, cables, carb rebuild, shock adjustment/fluid change, brakes, the list goes on and on. Spend some quality time learning, wrenching, and riding with the girl you've got.
The_Veg
D'OH!
I did read in your post that you bought the bike new- but just like vision and hearing, springs deteriorate so gradually over time that you probably didn't notice it happening.
Now since you've owned the bike for more than 30 years, I could guess that you're already proficient with keeping the engine in proper tune. If that's the case and you know that you are dissatisfied with the ignition, I can make a recommendation. The Omega Ignition (not to be confused with the Omega alternator sold by Motorrad Elektrik) is a good unit for several reasons and I hear it's priced pretty reasonably. I know several people who use it and I also know the importer and can vouch for him as an honest character.
The strength of the Omega ignition is that it does not physically replace the points- which means that if it fails out on the road, all you do is disconnect it and reconnect the points. You can also select several different advance-curves. It also eliminates several other potential problems with mechanical ignition due to things such as worn advance mechanisms or bent cam-noses. More info about Omega here.
Now since you've owned the bike for more than 30 years, I could guess that you're already proficient with keeping the engine in proper tune. If that's the case and you know that you are dissatisfied with the ignition, I can make a recommendation. The Omega Ignition (not to be confused with the Omega alternator sold by Motorrad Elektrik) is a good unit for several reasons and I hear it's priced pretty reasonably. I know several people who use it and I also know the importer and can vouch for him as an honest character.
The strength of the Omega ignition is that it does not physically replace the points- which means that if it fails out on the road, all you do is disconnect it and reconnect the points. You can also select several different advance-curves. It also eliminates several other potential problems with mechanical ignition due to things such as worn advance mechanisms or bent cam-noses. More info about Omega here.
bob_m
Active member
Repeat
Welcome to the forum.
Get to know the bike and love it for what it is. There are not enough upgrades in the world to make this work like a new motorcycle. The R90/6 has enough power and reliability to go the distance or to get one in trouble with the law (or the laws of physics). Improvements in one area (power/brakes) may expose weakness in another area (swing arm stiffness/fork or chassis stiffness), A campain of upgrading can begin a cascade of spending, so proceed carefully. It is not unusual for a casual mechanic to fix stuff till it is broken then take it to a professional mechanic. This can increase the cost by lots.
That being said, Veg mentioned the Omega charging system (Motoradd Elektric). This can be installed by a capable shade-tree mechanic. With the additional power you could run some electric gloves and some classic style driving lights. The same company has a LED tail light that is quite bright and a safety improvement.
A billet top triple clamp may be available for the /6 model (I don't know)
EBC and Spiegler have brake disc upgrades. The Spiegler cast iron disks have good bite and feel but they can rust and get dirty. Conversion to dual disks is not an uncommon upgrade.
Comfort. If you set the bike up for long rides, or for Cafe sprints pretty much determines the level of comfort you will need. The seat and shocks should reflect the type of riding you will use the bike for.
For the few items I mentioned you could easily spend more that $2000 in parts. Proceed carefully.
For bench racing or BS sessions the most effective upgrade is appearance. Set the bike up for riding, but make it clean, and sharp and stylish. That "upgrade" might just be the most satisfying.
Oh yea. Pictures please
Welcome to the forum.
Get to know the bike and love it for what it is. There are not enough upgrades in the world to make this work like a new motorcycle. The R90/6 has enough power and reliability to go the distance or to get one in trouble with the law (or the laws of physics). Improvements in one area (power/brakes) may expose weakness in another area (swing arm stiffness/fork or chassis stiffness), A campain of upgrading can begin a cascade of spending, so proceed carefully. It is not unusual for a casual mechanic to fix stuff till it is broken then take it to a professional mechanic. This can increase the cost by lots.
That being said, Veg mentioned the Omega charging system (Motoradd Elektric). This can be installed by a capable shade-tree mechanic. With the additional power you could run some electric gloves and some classic style driving lights. The same company has a LED tail light that is quite bright and a safety improvement.
A billet top triple clamp may be available for the /6 model (I don't know)
EBC and Spiegler have brake disc upgrades. The Spiegler cast iron disks have good bite and feel but they can rust and get dirty. Conversion to dual disks is not an uncommon upgrade.
Comfort. If you set the bike up for long rides, or for Cafe sprints pretty much determines the level of comfort you will need. The seat and shocks should reflect the type of riding you will use the bike for.
For the few items I mentioned you could easily spend more that $2000 in parts. Proceed carefully.
For bench racing or BS sessions the most effective upgrade is appearance. Set the bike up for riding, but make it clean, and sharp and stylish. That "upgrade" might just be the most satisfying.
Oh yea. Pictures please
Last edited:
R90/6
It looks like to me that U have a pretty good stock bike. I would live it in that condition and just do normal rebuilds on the components that would normally need those rebuilds. Examples would be steering head, swingarm, wheel bearings. Forks rebuilt, with heavy duty stock or aftermarket progressive springs. Over time a lot of the plastic and rubber parts deteriorate and need to be replaced. Examples of this are the fork boots, swingarm bearing covers, the rubber covers over the cables, stuff like that. The stock points ignition is more than adequate. Modern electonic ig. is not a bad upgrade if U don't like to do points adjustments. It's also a not seen upgrade and keeps the stock look. The 90/6 is a nice period piece and a pleasure to ride. I have a 74 R90/6 that has given me thousands of miles of great rides.
It looks like to me that U have a pretty good stock bike. I would live it in that condition and just do normal rebuilds on the components that would normally need those rebuilds. Examples would be steering head, swingarm, wheel bearings. Forks rebuilt, with heavy duty stock or aftermarket progressive springs. Over time a lot of the plastic and rubber parts deteriorate and need to be replaced. Examples of this are the fork boots, swingarm bearing covers, the rubber covers over the cables, stuff like that. The stock points ignition is more than adequate. Modern electonic ig. is not a bad upgrade if U don't like to do points adjustments. It's also a not seen upgrade and keeps the stock look. The 90/6 is a nice period piece and a pleasure to ride. I have a 74 R90/6 that has given me thousands of miles of great rides.
ISAMEMON
Grammarian no, Rider yes
Ill agree with Bob
I got off a big rice bike and onto this old airhead
and that is so cool that this is your old scooter, way cool, you own a 30+year old scooter , since new,,,,,nice
my airhead , well Im second owner, its 30+ years too..........
my first month was .........I want to do this and do that
then , with posts here, and a slap or two in the face, from Bob and many others, I accepted the fact I ride a 30 year old scooter and it wont be the same as a newer "ABS, injected computerised bike" thank god
and if I wanted that, well, I can spend a few grand more and get a oilhead, or go cheap and back to rice or BIG bucks and dealer only work
so after you acept the fact your riding a classic that you can bust knuckels on in your garage, and give yourself classic stopping distance, youll be ok
and probabally one of the best benefits, is
when I rode rice, young kids said. "wow cool"
now guys my age go, "wow cool"
Id go for approval of the briefcase crowd over the boarders (skateboard)
but thats me, im gettin older, and the onlookers dont mean squat now...
so....., like I am now, shoot for reliability , easy roadside repairs, and go from there
carb overhauls, clean all electrical contacts, change every fluid, new wheel bearings and seals,new innner tubes, well greased and lots of synthteics
and like someone else said, new non dealer brake pads and stainless brake lines will make a big difference
a side stand that stands up your bike, or my modifications
for me, however, dual disc are more important then a electronic ignition
I really want dual pinchers
my only complaint, even with ebc pads and stainless, is I wish I could stop this old girl faster
an a few weeks ago, my bro in law took a bad hit, not his fault, but dual disc might have helped, , now he has a trashed airhead and a bunch of broken bones.....
and rear brake, shucks, thats just there for modulating speed and saying, yes I have a rear brakes ( I have ebc there too and that was an improvement)
love me ol' air head
I got off a big rice bike and onto this old airhead
and that is so cool that this is your old scooter, way cool, you own a 30+year old scooter , since new,,,,,nice
my airhead , well Im second owner, its 30+ years too..........
my first month was .........I want to do this and do that
then , with posts here, and a slap or two in the face, from Bob and many others, I accepted the fact I ride a 30 year old scooter and it wont be the same as a newer "ABS, injected computerised bike" thank god
and if I wanted that, well, I can spend a few grand more and get a oilhead, or go cheap and back to rice or BIG bucks and dealer only workso after you acept the fact your riding a classic that you can bust knuckels on in your garage, and give yourself classic stopping distance, youll be ok
and probabally one of the best benefits, is
when I rode rice, young kids said. "wow cool"
now guys my age go, "wow cool"
Id go for approval of the briefcase crowd over the boarders (skateboard)
but thats me, im gettin older, and the onlookers dont mean squat now...
so....., like I am now, shoot for reliability , easy roadside repairs, and go from there
carb overhauls, clean all electrical contacts, change every fluid, new wheel bearings and seals,new innner tubes, well greased and lots of synthteics
and like someone else said, new non dealer brake pads and stainless brake lines will make a big difference
a side stand that stands up your bike, or my modifications
for me, however, dual disc are more important then a electronic ignition
I really want dual pinchers
my only complaint, even with ebc pads and stainless, is I wish I could stop this old girl faster
an a few weeks ago, my bro in law took a bad hit, not his fault, but dual disc might have helped, , now he has a trashed airhead and a bunch of broken bones.....
and rear brake, shucks, thats just there for modulating speed and saying, yes I have a rear brakes ( I have ebc there too and that was an improvement)
love me ol' air head
AntonLargiader
Active member
Improving the suspension is probably the best thing you can do. Don't just change the fork oil; disassemble and really cleam/inspect the forks. Replace the rubber bumpers. Check to be sure the fork tubes are aligned perfectly, and be very careful on reinstallation to be sure you have a fork that moves smoothly before you even put the springs back in.
There are several good replacement shocks that have recently come on the market from Wilbers and others.
If the motor starts easily, don't even think of spending money there until the suspension is right. You can make the suspension much better than it was when new, but not so the motor. And you'll enjoy the suspension more.
There are several good replacement shocks that have recently come on the market from Wilbers and others.
If the motor starts easily, don't even think of spending money there until the suspension is right. You can make the suspension much better than it was when new, but not so the motor. And you'll enjoy the suspension more.
rogermansfield
beemerfield
I broke down and bought IKON shocks for my 1980RT. They made a big difference. I didn't realize how bad the old ones had gotten. New fork springs are not that expensive either.
ISAMEMON
Grammarian no, Rider yes
i guess the " backwards" turn signals dont bug me, actually they are not that bad
yet I grew up riding non "USA" bikes and non "USA" cars
my first scooter was a italian bike in 1963
I think it the usa it was sold as a bridgestone
cars, we were cheap there too
one of our favorite cheepies was the renault "r" cars , they were neat, much better then a vw
think of it, when you could buy an aircoolled vw bug in the late 60's., or you could buy a car with 4 wheel discs, independent suspension, a HEATER that worked ( water cooled) and all for the same bucks
the biggest propblem was dealerships, and I bring this up because its not unlike reading the latest ON magazine, thats the problem with BMW scooters, poor dealers, adn not enough dealers.
but if you have grown up riding rice rockets and other things designed for the USA then yep , the old airhead swithces might be a concern ( as well as low redlines if you like the whine sound, cheap repair prices, and a dealer as near as or next door to your local 7-11)
hey it was not until this second that I saw, that I was always into "R" machines, renault r 8-10. and now my scooters, "R" sreies
oh man Im gettin old
yet I grew up riding non "USA" bikes and non "USA" cars
my first scooter was a italian bike in 1963
I think it the usa it was sold as a bridgestone
cars, we were cheap there too
one of our favorite cheepies was the renault "r" cars , they were neat, much better then a vw
think of it, when you could buy an aircoolled vw bug in the late 60's., or you could buy a car with 4 wheel discs, independent suspension, a HEATER that worked ( water cooled) and all for the same bucks
the biggest propblem was dealerships, and I bring this up because its not unlike reading the latest ON magazine, thats the problem with BMW scooters, poor dealers, adn not enough dealers.
but if you have grown up riding rice rockets and other things designed for the USA then yep , the old airhead swithces might be a concern ( as well as low redlines if you like the whine sound, cheap repair prices, and a dealer as near as or next door to your local 7-11)
hey it was not until this second that I saw, that I was always into "R" machines, renault r 8-10. and now my scooters, "R" sreies
oh man Im gettin old
airhead upgrade
I too ride a r90/6 and consulted with my local and trusted dealer; Hansen's in Medford Oregon regarding an upgrade to my ignition system.
Craig warned me against installing electronic ignition. The incoming power simply isn't clean enough.
Food for thought.
Keep your stick on the ice. Jack
I too ride a r90/6 and consulted with my local and trusted dealer; Hansen's in Medford Oregon regarding an upgrade to my ignition system.
Craig warned me against installing electronic ignition. The incoming power simply isn't clean enough.
Food for thought.
Keep your stick on the ice. Jack
B
bobh41
Guest
Got another suggestion for download?
This is the result of my query:
This is the result of my query:
File Deleted!
This file has been downloaded times already.
File name:
File size: MB
Description:
This file has been downloaded times already.
File name:
File size: MB
Description:
5
535IS
Guest
manicmechanic
ABC,AMA(LIFE),MOA,RA,IBMW
My '76 R90/6 has bee upgraded as follows - Progressive springs infront, Hagon shocks in back, Dyna3, and Omega. In/on the Hannigan fairing there are 35w PIAA's, a Gerbings heat-troller, XM, and Garmin mount. It is most satisfying to be able to ride in cold weather, after dark, with all the lights on and the Gerbings doing its job, and still charge the battery.
