True Cost 1971 R60

[HippyGSrider]

I was thinking about looking for an early 70's project bike to learn how to work on bikes without screwing up my GSA. This morning, I came across 1971 R60 with approx 67k miles at a dealership. The bike is ready to ride, but far from perfect. Price is $3k; however, I know that is just the beginning. What am I really in for?

 

[20774]

Likely a bit overpriced. I suspect you'll have to go through all systems, depending on any assurance the dealer can provide on maintenance. The R60/5 was somewhat underpowered and had a tendency to ping given the cam profile...it's also a high compression engine. The pinging can be corrected with an aftermarket ignition system which controls the advance curve more.

 

[HippyGSrider]

Likely a bit overpriced. I suspect you'll have to go through all systems, depending on any assurance the dealer can provide on maintenance. The R60/5 was somewhat underpowered and had a tendency to ping given the cam profile...it's also a high compression engine. The pinging can be corrected with an aftermarket ignition system which controls the advance curve more.

I assumed the price is a little high as the dealership has to pay its bills. Some piece of mind knowing they go through the bike before putting it out for sale. It will be used as an around town bike and a training tool to help me learn about the boxer engine and general motorcycle maintenance.

 

[stevenrankin]

Depends

What you will spend depends on the condition of the bike to start with and what you want it to be when finished.

Without my seeing the bike, I can't even guess a figure for you. I can tell you I am one of the nuts who keep my airheads running as long as I can and I ride them in all kinds of weather they don't get babied just maintained.

So, last winter I overhauled/restored my 84 R80RT. I spent just over $8K. The bike now looks almost new, and runs terrific. At 240K miles, I hope to keep it on the road until I can't ride anymore. Rebuilding my 78 R100RS in 2017 was very close to the same amount of money. St.
View attachment R80RT Build Cost PDF.pdf

 

[dduelin]

I'm sure that bike is appealing but I would look for a 1974 or later /6 or /7 that incorporated the brake, transmission, and ignition system updates that BMW was making in the 1970s. That's what I did when I did essentially the same thing in 2006 that you are thinking of now. I found an '81 R100 that was a runner and over the next couple of years went through the entire bike. I put 40,000 miles on it during 6 years as a second bike. I encourage you. I had great fun and learned a lot about BMWs.

 

[HippyGSrider]

What you will spend depends on the condition of the bike to start with and what you want it to be when finished.

Without my seeing the bike, I can't even guess a figure for you. I can tell you I am one of the nuts who keep my airheads running as long as I can and I ride them in all kinds of weather they don't get babied just maintained.

So, last winter I overhauled/restored my 84 R80RT. I spent just over $8K. The bike now looks almost new, and runs terrific. At 240K miles, I hope to keep it on the road until I can't ride anymore. Rebuilding my 78 R100RS in 2017 was very close to the same amount of money. St.
View attachment 86750

Thanks for the itemized spreadsheet, as it gives me a great cost reference to keep in the back of my mind.

 

[HippyGSrider]

I'm sure that bike is appealing but I would look for a 1974 or later /6 or /7 that incorporated the brake, transmission, and ignition system updates that BMW was making in the 1970s. That's what I did when I did essentially the same thing in 2006 that you are thinking of now. I found an '81 R100 that was a runner and over the next couple of years went through the entire bike. I put 40,000 miles on it during 6 years as a second bike. I encourage you. I had great fun and learned a lot about BMWs.

That is good info, thanks.
Being ADHD and it being winter, I had all I could do to stop myself from making the impulse buy on the spot. The good thing is that I have the rational, physics teacher portion of my brain sitting on the other shoulder telling me to research it first (that dude seldom wins out, btw).
Even though it is just going to be used for around town and cruising up the coast, etc. as someone mentioned above, the R60 may be underpowered for even that (I am 6' 215 lbs).

 

[dduelin]

That is good info, thanks.
Being ADHD and it being winter, I had all I could do to stop myself from making the impulse buy on the spot. The good thing is that I have the rational, physics teacher portion of my brain sitting on the other shoulder telling me to research it first (that dude seldom wins out, btw).
Even though it is just going to be used for around town and cruising up the coast, etc. as someone mentioned above, the R60 may be underpowered for even that (I am 6' 215 lbs).

The underpowered argument is often levied against my 46 rear wheel hp NC700X. I don't listen and continue to keep it in the stable. After my airhead time I bought a 2012 NC700X and have around 70,000 miles on them to date. Many long trips, tours, visited 8 states, and several IBA 1000 & 1500 mile certificates. I am fond of calling the NCX the modern airhead. It has a place next to my RT and Goldwing despite the low power output of the 670cc twin. My R100 was never intended to replace the ST1300 I was riding at the time rather it complimented it.

 

[stevenrankin]

underpowered

I get a kick out of the underpowered comments, how much power do you really need to cruise. A friend of mine has a /2 R69S and he is a bear to keep up with on a ride. Another friend has a R26 with a whopping 12Hp and it is quite sufficient for his riding.

I have two bikes, a 84 R80RT which produces around 55HP and a European spec R100RS that is producing around 70HP. I do the most riding on the RT and it will get me enough high speed driving awards if I don't pay attention to the speedometer. The biggest difference between the bikes (other than riding position and fairing). Is the RS is a lot better at passing power. Mind you the RT is quick enough but the extra HP and torque of the RS makes a world of difference when passing.

The only other advice I can give is that if you think you will fix this bike up and get back what you put into it at a sale, you will be disappointed. The 60 is not a popular model and in fact many BMW airheads don't bring a lot of money in the resale. Certain models can be borderline on restoration costs.

Use this bike as a learning tool, do the least amount of work you need to enjoy riding it safely and have fun. I keep throwing money into my two bikes for sentimental reasons as well as other nutty reasons, I could have bought four new bikes easily for the money I keep putting into these two. St.

 

[cwroady]

My first airhead was a 60/5 Toaster .. then I picked up a 75/5. Over the last several years, the 75/5 it has had a good chunk of change thrown at it, but it is money well spent. Love my 75/5, it just fits like a well worn glove. The 60/5 looked more appealing to most, but it is gone and the 75 remains! I sure wouldn't trade it for a /6 or /7 either .. get what speaks to you and enjoy.

 

[PGlaves]

Having started my motorcycle multi-state touring experience riding two-up on a 250cc Yamaha RD250 I just laugh and shake my head at people who think an R60/5 is too feeble to be a worthwhile motorcycle. It probably seems a little weak to adrenaline junkies but to folks who want to commute or tour an R60/5 will suffice.

 

[motodan]

My almost 86 year old brother just bought a Honda ADV 150 scooter and he's plenty satisfied. His last machine was a C650GT, before that a R1200RT. Everything fits, in its own time.

 

[stevenrankin]

Hp

A while ago my friend restored an R26 for a fellow. The bike had been his father's and his father and mother had toured Europe on it when the father left the service. Funniest part of the story of the bike was when father and mother flipped the bike over backwards going up a steep hill. So much stuff loaded too far to the rear.

I don't know but I bet it would be fun to tour like that on a 11Hp bike as long as one stays on the slow roads. Maybe one day I will. St.

 

[20774]

I don't know but I bet it would be fun to tour like that on a 11Hp bike as long as one stays on the slow roads. Maybe one day I will. St.

My 12Hp (at least it was leaving the factory) R25/2 is no cup of tea just on local roads. I can't imagine trying to do any serious touring on it.

 

[HippyGSrider]

I get a kick out of the underpowered comments, how much power do you really need to cruise. A friend of mine has a /2 R69S and he is a bear to keep up with on a ride. Another friend has a R26 with a whopping 12Hp and it is quite sufficient for his riding.

I have two bikes, a 84 R80RT which produces around 55HP and a European spec R100RS that is producing around 70HP. I do the most riding on the RT and it will get me enough high speed driving awards if I don't pay attention to the speedometer. The biggest difference between the bikes (other than riding position and fairing). Is the RS is a lot better at passing power. Mind you the RT is quick enough but the extra HP and torque of the RS makes a world of difference when passing.

The only other advice I can give is that if you think you will fix this bike up and get back what you put into it at a sale, you will be disappointed. The 60 is not a popular model and in fact many BMW airheads don't bring a lot of money in the resale. Certain models can be borderline on restoration costs.

Use this bike as a learning tool, do the least amount of work you need to enjoy riding it safely and have fun. I keep throwing money into my two bikes for sentimental reasons as well as other nutty reasons, I could have bought four new bikes easily for the money I keep putting into these two. St.

I definitely will not be looking to resell to recoup money and the attractive part of the R60 is the lack of interest, which creates a low entry point. I would be looking to not restore, but to make it a cool looking, fun bike to cruise to the store on.

 

[83014]

I’d suggest you go back and give the bike a thorough check. Look for wear items like tires, rubber items, cables, brakes, rust or any missing items. Then go to a site like Bob’s BMW and check the microfiche for your bike. That will give you a better idea of what’s readily available, no longer available(at least from a dealer) and what it costs. If you’re still excited about the bike and don’t find anything to give you concerns, then enjoy your new ride. I wouldn’t worry about the selling price. You could possibly find a cheaper bike but it could cost more to repair or maintain.

Doug

 

[lkchris]

Underpowered or not, the R50 and R60 are still less desirable than the R75 so you're less likely to get much $$ back for one.

Additionally, I'd want the constant velocity carbs for sure, which would eliminate the 50. Not sure what 60 has.

Back in the day we liked these bikes, but the improvements that came in 1981 were breathtaking and significant and these bikes aren't that much more expensive. They are set up to burn regular gas as well, while any and all (mostly) earlier bikes should run premium. When the '81s arrived, I started referring to the older bikes as farm equipment.

Then again, I have a friend who refuses to own a smartphone and refuses to shop eBay or Amazon, so ... ymmv

 

[stevenrankin]

Regular Gas?

I missed something back when I bought my 84 RT, I missed the notice to run it on regular gas! In all the years I have been riding airheads, I have always been told to use premium gas and I have. St.

 

[DonTom]

then I picked up a 75/5.

I picked up mine new in May 1971 for $1845.00. That is $12,807.85 in year 2022 money. Today it rides better than when new, but it isn't stock. The 1971 Bing R75/5 carbs only belong in one place, in a trash can. I have Mikuni carbs on it these days, jetted for 5K feet, which is where I am now and where I do most of my riding on that bike. It's dual plugged also. Has a Dyna Electronic Ignition (and I have a new spare, in case it craps out before I do).

Most who know airheads are surprised mine is so fast.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[DonTom]

Additionally, I'd want the constant velocity carbs for sure, which would eliminate the 50. Not sure what 60 has.

The R50/5 has the same carbs as the R60/5, just jetted differently, IIRC.

But you do NOT want the 1971 R75/5 CV Bing carbs. Those are the junkiest carbs ever made. When the bike warms up a little the R75/5 carbs will not "idle" below around 2,500 RPMS. There was no decent fix for them. Put them in a trash can where they belong.

-Don- Reno, NV