mneblett
#32806
This is not a "how to" but is intended merely to document what I've done in case it is useful to someone in the future. Unfortunately, it will also be long!
I am 5'7", 29.5" inseam, and have too-short arms for an RT. The stock bars are perfect for some, but too far forward for me. The resulting leaning-forward position becomes uncomfortable pretty quickly. I installed bar risers which brought the grips up, lessening my lean, but not much back. The design of the stock "bars" and the locations of the clutch and brake master cylinders' outlets severely hamstring aftermarket bar riser vendors' options.
I like the RT enough that I decided it was worth the effort to try something new. I heard recently that BMW now offers an RT tubular handlebar option. A bit of digging around allowed me to find that the upper triple tree ("upper fork cross brace" in BMW-speak) used on the tubular bar RT is essentially (if not exactly) identical to that on a GS. I was able to use an earlier R1200GS triple tree that I picked up off fleabay for $125 shipped from Latvia (part no. 31 42 8 555 851), with the steering stem bearing and fork leg flexible bushings in excellent shape (similar but cleaner than the one below). $125 beats nearly $900 new from BMW.
The next issues were which replacement handlebar to use, and how to bridge the gap between the 32mm OD of the BMW tubular bars and a different replacement bar OD. Based on previous experience with one of my GTLs, I opted for Helibars K1600GTL Horizon adjustable bars. Not a cheap option, particularly knowing that I would not be using the very nice adaptor brackets Helibars manufactures to permit the K16 steering head to accept their tubular handlebar center section. I winced and paid the price because I knew that the Horizon bars are so adjustable that I should be able to very precisely tailor the grip angles to suit my OCD.
The next issue was how to go from the 32mm BMW handlebar OD to the Helibars K16GTL 1" center section OD. I looked everywhere but could not find a 32mm-to-1" adapter. However, I stumbled on a set of Rox risers that I thought I could modify to do the job. Their flat bases were a plus to me. The Rox part no.:
These risers have a base which is slotted to fit 31mm-42mm mounting bolt separations, and uses split shell adapters to enable mounting of either 7/8" or 1 1/8" handlebars. https://roxspeedfx.com/products/1-1...for-7-8-or-1-1-8-handlebar?variant=1031362021
Unfortunately, the mounting bolt separation for BMW 32mm tubular handlebars is 44mm. The solution was to use my milling machine to elongate the Rox slot 2mm while maintaining the lower step that the bolt head uses to clamp the riser to the triple tree. I had to get closer to the threaded portion for the top clamp than I would have liked, but there's enough meat left that the fastener load on the threads is adequately supported.
Fitting the 1" K16GLT Helibar center section was handled by using my lathe to bore a hole in a 2" Aluminum bar I had laying around in steps up to 1", and then reducing the OD until it fit the curvature of the Rox parts well. The rough surface finish is intentional to enhance the grip on the handlebar once clamped down.
After cutting the rings off to width from the turned tube, they were split and their ends sanded down on a belt sander to ensure they would not meet one another when installed, i.e., prevent the shell halves forming a complete circle which would keep the clamping force away from the 1" handlebar. One of the Rox shell halves for fitting a 7/8" bar is included in the pic below for size comparison.
Onward to assembly!
Removal of the stock upper triple tree does not cause the Telelever suspension to collapse, as the front shock supports the frame against the lower A-arm. I did place a jack under the engine just in case, but more to stabilize the entire bike while I was working. Note that the steering stem bolt is a T55 Torx, and it is thread-locked. It actually was not that hard to get to release. Just make sure the T55 bit is fully inserted before applying force.
Removal of the fuel tank and the air box is not *required* to do this job, but it would be miserable with them in place.
Note in the above pic that (1) I've released the hoses and cables from their tie-down points near the steering head (e.g., the fat "T" on the right side of the upper frame tube); and (2) I've rotated the stock triple tree and ignition module to the rear side of the steering head. The ignition module is factory secured from the bottom by security screws whose heads must be drilled off in the same manner as you would remove a rivet head. To mount the ignition module to the replacement triple tree, you can either go to BMW and buy replacement security screws and their special installation tool, or use appropriate-length 6mm Allen head bolts which fit neatly into the module and triple tree.
My thought is that a bad guy easily removing the bolts is not an issue, as (i) BMW touring bikes are not a desirable target to sport bike-craving joyriders, and (ii) even if a professional thief knows about the BMW security bolts (or even my "easily" removable Allen bolts), as a practical matter the bolts are nearly impossible to access when in the bike. If a thief has actually made off with my bike and taken it apart far enough to get to my bolts, more power to them -- I wouldn't want the bike back then.
A few times on and off for test-fitting and adjustment, and things began to come together:
Note that when I removed the stock upper triple tree I moved all of the hoses and cables to behind the steering head. Coupled with the freeing of the hoses/cables from their restrictive factory tie-downs, this allowed me to continue to use the stock hoses/cables without extensions or replacement. I was very careful throughout the multiple fittings/adjustments to ensure that no hose or cable was over-stretched or crushed at full lock to either side.
20 picture limit requires moving to a second post ...
I am 5'7", 29.5" inseam, and have too-short arms for an RT. The stock bars are perfect for some, but too far forward for me. The resulting leaning-forward position becomes uncomfortable pretty quickly. I installed bar risers which brought the grips up, lessening my lean, but not much back. The design of the stock "bars" and the locations of the clutch and brake master cylinders' outlets severely hamstring aftermarket bar riser vendors' options.
I like the RT enough that I decided it was worth the effort to try something new. I heard recently that BMW now offers an RT tubular handlebar option. A bit of digging around allowed me to find that the upper triple tree ("upper fork cross brace" in BMW-speak) used on the tubular bar RT is essentially (if not exactly) identical to that on a GS. I was able to use an earlier R1200GS triple tree that I picked up off fleabay for $125 shipped from Latvia (part no. 31 42 8 555 851), with the steering stem bearing and fork leg flexible bushings in excellent shape (similar but cleaner than the one below). $125 beats nearly $900 new from BMW.
The next issues were which replacement handlebar to use, and how to bridge the gap between the 32mm OD of the BMW tubular bars and a different replacement bar OD. Based on previous experience with one of my GTLs, I opted for Helibars K1600GTL Horizon adjustable bars. Not a cheap option, particularly knowing that I would not be using the very nice adaptor brackets Helibars manufactures to permit the K16 steering head to accept their tubular handlebar center section. I winced and paid the price because I knew that the Horizon bars are so adjustable that I should be able to very precisely tailor the grip angles to suit my OCD.
The next issue was how to go from the 32mm BMW handlebar OD to the Helibars K16GTL 1" center section OD. I looked everywhere but could not find a 32mm-to-1" adapter. However, I stumbled on a set of Rox risers that I thought I could modify to do the job. Their flat bases were a plus to me. The Rox part no.:
These risers have a base which is slotted to fit 31mm-42mm mounting bolt separations, and uses split shell adapters to enable mounting of either 7/8" or 1 1/8" handlebars. https://roxspeedfx.com/products/1-1...for-7-8-or-1-1-8-handlebar?variant=1031362021
Unfortunately, the mounting bolt separation for BMW 32mm tubular handlebars is 44mm. The solution was to use my milling machine to elongate the Rox slot 2mm while maintaining the lower step that the bolt head uses to clamp the riser to the triple tree. I had to get closer to the threaded portion for the top clamp than I would have liked, but there's enough meat left that the fastener load on the threads is adequately supported.
Fitting the 1" K16GLT Helibar center section was handled by using my lathe to bore a hole in a 2" Aluminum bar I had laying around in steps up to 1", and then reducing the OD until it fit the curvature of the Rox parts well. The rough surface finish is intentional to enhance the grip on the handlebar once clamped down.
After cutting the rings off to width from the turned tube, they were split and their ends sanded down on a belt sander to ensure they would not meet one another when installed, i.e., prevent the shell halves forming a complete circle which would keep the clamping force away from the 1" handlebar. One of the Rox shell halves for fitting a 7/8" bar is included in the pic below for size comparison.
Onward to assembly!
Removal of the stock upper triple tree does not cause the Telelever suspension to collapse, as the front shock supports the frame against the lower A-arm. I did place a jack under the engine just in case, but more to stabilize the entire bike while I was working. Note that the steering stem bolt is a T55 Torx, and it is thread-locked. It actually was not that hard to get to release. Just make sure the T55 bit is fully inserted before applying force.
Removal of the fuel tank and the air box is not *required* to do this job, but it would be miserable with them in place.
Note in the above pic that (1) I've released the hoses and cables from their tie-down points near the steering head (e.g., the fat "T" on the right side of the upper frame tube); and (2) I've rotated the stock triple tree and ignition module to the rear side of the steering head. The ignition module is factory secured from the bottom by security screws whose heads must be drilled off in the same manner as you would remove a rivet head. To mount the ignition module to the replacement triple tree, you can either go to BMW and buy replacement security screws and their special installation tool, or use appropriate-length 6mm Allen head bolts which fit neatly into the module and triple tree.
My thought is that a bad guy easily removing the bolts is not an issue, as (i) BMW touring bikes are not a desirable target to sport bike-craving joyriders, and (ii) even if a professional thief knows about the BMW security bolts (or even my "easily" removable Allen bolts), as a practical matter the bolts are nearly impossible to access when in the bike. If a thief has actually made off with my bike and taken it apart far enough to get to my bolts, more power to them -- I wouldn't want the bike back then.
A few times on and off for test-fitting and adjustment, and things began to come together:
Note that when I removed the stock upper triple tree I moved all of the hoses and cables to behind the steering head. Coupled with the freeing of the hoses/cables from their restrictive factory tie-downs, this allowed me to continue to use the stock hoses/cables without extensions or replacement. I was very careful throughout the multiple fittings/adjustments to ensure that no hose or cable was over-stretched or crushed at full lock to either side.
20 picture limit requires moving to a second post ...
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