Timeserts vs. Helicoil

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Has anyone ever been able to purchase or find pricing on Timeserts? I've tried their website, check most of their distributor site, nary a trace of pricing. In theory, they seem superior to helicoils--but not if they are urban myths.

anyone know of any Airhead wrenches that have used them or could install one on one of my heads for the center valve cover stud?

 

[barryg]

I've installed probably a 100 of both. I use to do head work for a living. We have a metric nut and bolt supplier in the Memphis Tn. area called Fell and Co. They carry metric tools, too. Call them for price and availability. 901 332 6669 ask for Rusty.

 

[barryg]

Also try Wurth Products or Winzer Products. Do a web search on both.

 

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I've installed probably a 100 of both. I use to do head work for a living. We have a metric nut and bolt supplier in the Memphis Tn. area called Fell and Co. They carry metric tools, too. Call them for price and availability. 901 332 6669 ask for Rusty.

In your experience, is one better than the other? I'm thinking of doing the center stud on both valve covers (the left side stud and all managed to wiggle out someplace along the way).

 

[BeemerMike]

In your experience, is one better than the other? I'm thinking of doing the center stuf on both valvecovers (the left side stud and all managed to wiggle out someplace along the way).

In Porsche air-cooled engine repair, Time-Serts is the recommended method of repair for "pulled" case studs (the long bolts that clamp the cylinders and heads to the engine block). I believe that Time-Serts are considered to be just inherently stronger than Heli-coils (you only have to look at a cross-section of each to see why). Heli-coils are probably OK for light-duty thread repair.

 

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Heli-coils are probably OK for light-duty thread repair.

Looks to me like the center studs on my valve covers were already Heli-coiled previously, so I was thinking maybe Time-Serts are a better choice.

Any idea what a local machine/autp repair place would charge?

 

[widebmw]

Looks to me like the center studs on my valve covers were already Heli-coiled previously, so I was thinking maybe Time-Serts are a better choice.

Any idea what a local machine/autp repair place would charge?

A stud cut to 75 mm will go through the head. Grind two sides of a nut down and it will fit in the space behind the head where the stud comes through.

 

[BeemerMike]

Looks to me like the center studs on my valve covers were already Heli-coiled previously, so I was thinking maybe Time-Serts are a better choice.

Any idea what a local machine/autp repair place would charge?

Not surprising that the Helicoil failed (especially on a connection that routinely gets loosened and then retightened). Not really sure of the current price for a Time-Sert. I have not had one done in a long time (although in the next year or two, I will probably have many done on a '72 911 engine). Depending on the service of the connection, one key is to ensure that the Time-Sert is installed exactly perpendicular to the surface (or whatever the correct angle needs to be) to eliminate unwanted side loading on the joint. This will best be done (and probably cheaper) by someone who installs Time-Serts on a regular basis (and therefore already has the parts and experience), because this work will be done best on a drill press rather than attempted by hand.

 

[AnnapolisAirhead]

A stud cut to 75 mm will go through the head. Grind two sides of a nut down and it will fit in the space behind the head where the stud comes through.

Interesting. You mean instead of a Time-Sert, right? Not sure I want to drill completely through the head.

 

[barryg]

I would prefer time sert in this application, but either will work.

 

[widebmw]

Interesting. You mean instead of a Time-Sert, right? Not sure I want to drill completely through the head.

NO drilling.
The hole where the stock stud is goes through to behind the head.
Take the spark plug out and you can see a space behind where the stud goes through where you can fit a nut in that has had two sides ground down.

 

[AnnapolisAirhead]

NO drilling.
The hole where the stock stud is goes through to behind the head.
Take the spark plug out and you can see a space behind where the stud goes through where you can fit a nut in that has had two sides ground down.

Fantastic. I didn't think it went though...no I understand the grinding down part. I suppose I could blue or red loktite that end,huh?

Thanks for the picture.

 

[PAGoldsby]

I blew a spark plug out of my '98 F150 a couple of years ago. I tried to find someplace in SE Missouri (where I was working at the time) who could put a TimeSert in the head. I had to settle for a Helicoil. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles. I put a remanufactured head on then. I'm pretty sure the TimeSert would have hung in there. It's a remarkably superior repair.

 

[widebmw]

Fantastic. I didn't think it went though...no I understand the grinding down part. I suppose I could blue or red loktite that end,huh?

Thanks for the picture.

I used red but it is hard to get it on the threads.

I also used a nut that was 1/2 the width of a normal nut.