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Time for clutch cable adjustment?

piperjim

Member
With this big storm moving across the country, I decided to get out ahead of it for a quick ride. So, I took an overnite trip this weekend from Colorado to southwestern Kansas. Great weather on Saturday on the ride out, but really lousy on the trip back on Sunday. I left Meade, KS Sunday morning at 8:30 am and the temp was 21!! It didn't get above freezing for the next 250 miles!!

On the trip I noticed a couple of problems with my '95 R1100RS, and seek some advice.

1. Trouble up-shifting. Mostly from 2nd to 3rd. I'd pull in the clutch lever and pull the shift lever up, but it didn't shift. This happened several times. I'd just keep trying until it moved up to the next gear. I also noticed this happening when going from 4th to 5th. Does this sound like the clutch cable needs adjusting?

2. Heated grips: The right grip did not work at all, and the left grip worked, but sure not enough!! I suppose at 21 degrees, it would be hard pressed to produce sufficient heat?? I'm guessing that this must be a broken wire somewhere in the circuit to the right grip. Any suggestions on where to look for an easy fix?

3. Kick-stand kill switch. This hasn't worked for the last few months, ever since the local shop performed a spline lube on the bike. I'm guessing they boogered it up while disassembling the bike. I'm guessing this is likely to be a broken wire and will start looking around the kickstand itself. Also, is it likely that some road grime has messed up the switch?

With this storm coming in, looks like I'll have a couple of days of down time!!

Thanks,

piperjim
 
I have a hi-miles 94 R1100RS amd my clutch works great. But, I do monitor the clutch setup/adjustment at least three times per the riding season. Some things to consider:
1. How many miles on your bike?
2. How many miles on the clutch for the miles on your bike?
3. When was the last time your clutch hub splines were lubed? Or, never lubed?

Clutch adjustment on the Oilheads is critical for good action and no drag. Set it up per the factory specs at the lever on the tranny and at the clutch lever. Your clutch hub splines HAVE to be cleaned and lubed with the right grease at least every 40,000 miles. If not, rust in the splines make for very hard shifiting and accelerated hub splines wear. If the wear is bad enough the splines on the input shaft to the tranny will wear, which equals big $$$$. If you do the clutch, replace the entire kit, don't mess with just the friction plate. Truct me, I know why.

Heated grips issue? Never had em, so I can't say, but it could be a wiring issue.

Same for the sidestand switch. Mine got damaged back in 98, so I took the switch out and joined the wires together. No issues since in almost 90,000 miles.
 
IIRC the clutch hand lever must have about 7 mm free play measured at the top end of the cable. When you check that, make sure that the round button at the end of the cable can rotate freely in the hole of the lever and that the cable end is not frayed where it enters the button.

The adjustment procedure requires that you adjust the clutch throwout lever behind the transmission to spec first, then adjust the nut at the hand lever.

At 23 degrees the heated grips are of little use. You need Gerbings heated gloves and you'll be fine.

If the kickstand switch does not work, fix it before you start riding with the stand down. You'll be a hazard to yourself andf others.
 
Adjust the gap between the lock nut and the adjuster at the handlebar to 12mm. Then adjust the adjuster at the lever on the back of the transmission so there is 7mm free play measured between the lever and its perch.

When you tighten the locknut on the adjuster bolt at the transmission pull and hold the clutch while you tighten the locknut. This keeps the adjuster from turning.
 
Part of the process during a clutch tune up should include cleaning and lubricating the shift linkage behind the left foot rest mounting plate. Often times this can solve shifting issues. If you have about 5 mm slack at the lever then this would be the next step. This, the clutch cable adjustment, and insuring that the foot shift lever is centered in the slot is really all you can do without removing the gearbox.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the tips and information. As always, the Forum is fantastic....due to the great people who are happy to share their expertise!!

Best wishes,

piperjim
 
When I adjust the clutch I loosen the cable at the clutch a little bit, then adjust the push rod end ( part that goes into tranny ) for the proper initial free play, lock the nut on the pushrod ( hold clutch in while doing this ). Then back to the clutch cable at the grip to set the final 12 mm free play. What is important at the end of it all is to make sure you have the proper free play.

Your clutch disk is easy to measure, just take the starter off and its right there & easy to get at. Min: is 4.5 mm Max: 5.5mm or so. You can also see if you've any leaks, if splines are rusty etc. Even replacing a clutch cable can improve the shifting ( less drag on new cable - but it will stretch. )

The second to third shift is not always the best no matter what you do. I've found that everything has to align, rpm, preload etc. Sometimes it just slides right in & the other times its a harder shift. My own gut feeling that this generation doesn't like sloppy shifting technique or fast shifts. The second to third shift on my R1100 is similar to my old GL1000 ( first generation gold wing ). If your not getting flakes of steel floating around in the tranny oil the tranny is probably OK. Some small stuff on the magnet is normal.

Grips - pull the tank back and with an ohm meter check each line until you find the break. Measure from the grip ( take the plugs off the grip ) to the connector to make sure you have continuity. The switches are harder to get at, but check the wiring under the tank first.

Side stand switch. I just have mine set so it doesn't work ( shorted out the connector ). Its a personnal thing.

Hope this helps.
 
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