Throttle Cable Adjuster Fix?

[JRD]

The right side throttle cable adjuster on my 2003 R1150R is almost completely stripped. The nut appears to be OK, but the threaded end is stripped. It has just enough threads left to hold the adjusting nut in place with blue loctite, but this is a temporary fix until the next adjustment when I expect it to give out completely. I want to repair it without disassembling the entire throttle cable assembly, cable divider, etc. Here's what I have in mind:

I can remove the inlet and vacuum hoses on the right side throttle body and loosen it enough to detach the adjuster end of the cable from the throttle wheel on the inboard side. I could then smear some epoxy, liquid weld, or similar product onto the ruined threads and re-cut them with the nut before the epoxy fully hardens. What do you think? What type of epoxy/adhesive would you use?

Alternatively, I could use the correct die to cut the threads if I knew the size of the adjusting nut and if the die had a cut-out allowing for the "inner" cable to pass through it. What is the size of the adjusting nut?

Another option would be to replace the right side throttle cable only (the bike has 20k miles on it). What is your experience with this?

Other ideas?

 

[PGlaves]

I think some kind of temporary threads can be made to work. I would probably try Loctite Form a Thread if I was inclined to do it. But ...

It would be a much better fix just to get that cable new - with a new adjuster. My bigger concern would be whether or not the thread damage included the part of the throttle body itself that engages the threaded adjuster. It would seem to me that the portion of the adjuster's threads that are damaged are those that screw into the bracket. Which would make me question the integrity of those threads.

And next I'd ask myself how the threads got damaged in the first instance - so I could avoid it happening again.

 

[JRD]

Thanks for the response, Paul.

The male threads on the throttle cable adjuster are damaged from overtightening the adjuster nut -- either by me at the 18K service or by a bmw tech at the 12k service or a combination of both. Anyway, it's a lesson learned and I get the point The male adjuster piece is softer than the nut! First contact plus 1/8 - 1/4 turn is probably all you need to hold it.

I've never used Loctite Form a Thread. Do you think the adjuster nut would re-cut a thread through it?

Is it necessary to replace the throttle cables in pairs if I go that route? Right side only would be easier, of course. Do you have to undo everything (left side, choke, hand throttle) to get the right side cable out of the cable distributor box? No way to know if the threaded hole in the throttle body bracket is damaged until I remove the cable, but I suspect not.

 

[bikerfish1100]

Joe- on my R11S, I have three throttle cables- one to each throttle body from the Bowden Box, one from the Bowden to the right side throttle grip. easy enough to replace as a single, but i'd want to carefully look at the left side as well for any fraying, kinking, etc- as it is a bit of a nuisance to get in there.
best recommmendation is get yourself a manual, it will delineate exactly what you need to do for your specific model.

 

[PGlaves]

Thanks for the response, Paul.

The male threads on the throttle cable adjuster are damaged from overtightening the adjuster nut -- either by me at the 18K service or by a bmw tech at the 12k service or a combination of both. Anyway, it's a lesson learned and I get the point The male adjuster piece is softer than the nut! First contact plus 1/8 - 1/4 turn is probably all you need to hold it.

I've never used Loctite Form a Thread. Do you think the adjuster nut would re-cut a thread through it?

Is it necessary to replace the throttle cables in pairs if I go that route? Right side only would be easier, of course. Do you have to undo everything (left side, choke, hand throttle) to get the right side cable out of the cable distributor box? No way to know if the threaded hole in the throttle body bracket is damaged until I remove the cable, but I suspect not.

Right side only is not too bad since the bellcrank assembly slides out the right. You need to loosen a few things to get slack.

 

[JRD]

Thanks all for the tips. I have the Clymer manual and access to the detailed parts fiche on the A&S BMW website. With your advice and those resources, I should be able to handle it. Let me know if you think of anything else that would help...

jrdeluca@woh.rr.com