The dreaded oil question. 2002 bmw r1150rt. Your opinion is appreciated.

[tangoalpha]

Guys,

I have a serious oil question to ask you. Sorry! Now, before the village revolts against me and comes marching up the hill with torches and pitchforks, ready to have me drawn and quartered, allow me to explain myself.

1) Yes, I did a search on this forum before posting

2) Yes, I also searched the "INTERNETS" (Al Gore reference) for related articles/posts. See link to article below.

3) Yes, after reading through all that....I still have questions. DOH!!

So I realize this is a topic that tends to drive people crazy and opinions on oil vary widely, so I'll keep this as brief as possible and get to my point.

I am a Mobil 1 Synthetic oil fan. I use this product in literally everything I own that has an engine...cars, trucks, motorcycles, generators and yes, even the lawnmower and trimmer. So yeah...you could say that I'm a believer. Along those lines, I also prefer K&N oil and air filters, but that's a different story altogether. When I bought my RT from a dealer a month ago, the oil had just been changed to get it ready for the new owner (me), so I haven't changed the oil yet. As much as I believe in Mobil 1 lubricants as a whole, I also understand that some products work better than others with certain types of machinery. So since I'm new to the boxer engine, I don't want to just assume that Mobil-1 is necessarily best for my RT. If there's a better product out there that works for this application, I certainly want to know about it before going off half cocked and filling my RT's crankcase with Mobil-1. So please give me your honest opinion on the best oil to use on my RT. I'll take your recommendations on a quality oil filter as well, if you have a favorite. As mentioned above, I usually go with K&N oil filters and I change my oil every 5k miles. The bike currently has 21k miles on the odometer.

So before the lynching begins, let me just add, that this is a serious question and that I value your feedback. I recognize that even though I have what I consider a lot of experience and regard myself to be fairly knowledgable, I am humble and honest enough to admit that I don't know everything. This I realize may come as a shock to you, but it's true. Unlike some newbies who join a forum and act as though they know everything, I am willing to admit, I have been known to be wrong occasionally. It happened ONCE actually! I used to think I was wrong twice....but turns out I was wrong about that too! LOL.

Anyway, with my last two Harley's (2003 and 2008 Ultra Classics) I ran Mobil 1 V-twin 20w/50 with great results. I was thinking that since my R1150RT is an oil cooled motor, similar to the Harley V-Twin, this oil might be the way to go...but I digress. I now yield the floor to the senior members of the forum to pontificate and extol the virtues of Brand X versus Brand Y.

Article/post with oil analysis: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=785931

 

[classicvw]

I cannot believe you found nothing in your searches. Try harder.

In the meantime, use whatever you believe in.

If all else fails, use what's recommended in the owner's manual and stop obsessing.

 

[PAS]

First lesson, Dont believe everything you read on the internet. Second lesson, follow the owners manual guidelines.

 

[20774]

Definitely find an oil that meets the specs from your owner's manual. Also check the March 2013 ON. Nearly 20 oils were sent off for analysis for the usual parameters - viscosity, chemical makeup, and total base number. Mobil 1 V-Twin oil showed pretty well.

 

[daboo]

I am continually surprised at motorcycle owners. Well, BMW owners at least. I can understand part of it. You buy the bike of your dreams and you want to take care of it the best you can. But whether the pistons go sideways or vertically, they still move back and forth. Heck, my Subaru Outback with a turbo (and some far more stringent lubricating requirements) has the pistons going sideways. My 66 VW Beetle did too. There's nothing special about it.

Follow the owner's manual recommendations. Use a full synthetic if you like. If you have a "wet" clutch that shares the oil with the engine, don't use oil labeled "Energy Conserving".

Chris

 

[henzilla]

My only word of caution is if you know it has had synthetic, most likely no issues...however if it has never had synthetic in it's system, some older bikes,regardless of mileage, often start a nuisance leak.

Have seen seal leaks and a few gasket leaks in both engine and gear lube applications when syn was introduced. Sometimes not, but enough to take a WAG as to why. Some others here have experienced this as well.
H's '95 R does not like synthetic...ask me how I know this Her 02 1150R doesn't care anymore, but the FD did the first swap to syn from dino.

And ditto on meeting specs in the owners manual.

 

[BC1100S]

Anyway, with my last two Harley's (2003 and 2008 Ultra Classics) I ran Mobil 1 V-twin 20w/50 with great results. I was thinking that since my R1150RT is an oil cooled motor, similar to the Harley V-Twin, this oil might be the way to go...

I am only responding to this dreaded oil thread because you seem to have a sense of humour.

I too have been a fan of Mobil 1 since about 1986. Been using it in every car and bike I've owned since then (including the lawn mower). I've been using Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil in my S since I got it. With over 100,000km on it now, it runs like new and uses no oil between changes.

As some will say, using any "in spec" oil, changed at the recommended intervals, will likely net you the same results. If you like the extra protection a synthetic gives you, I say go for it. Enjoy your new ride!

Edit: Henzilla makes a valid point regarding a nuisance leak. Although I have never experienced it, I know others have.

 

[20774]

The nuisance leak may have something to do with the chemical makeup of the synthetic. I recall seal leakage being an issue much earlier on. But then the packages were changed, maybe for some oils, to include seal swellers which may be a natural feature of dino oil. But as Henzilla says, if you're using dino oil, then switch to synth, and you notice a leak...best to go back to dino oil.

 

[pglaves]

Which Mobil 1? Saying you like Mobil 1 without specifying which of the numerous formulations is like saying I ike to soda pop. Without specificity there is no answer.

As for K&N - you say you are partial to them. Why? What is it about K&N that you think is superior to OEM, Bosch, Mann, etc?

 

[tangoalpha]

I am continually surprised at motorcycle owners. Well, BMW owners at least. I can understand part of it. You buy the bike of your dreams and you want to take care of it the best you can. But whether the pistons go sideways or vertically, they still move back and forth. Heck, my Subaru Outback with a turbo (and some far more stringent lubricating requirements) has the pistons going sideways. My 66 VW Beetle did too. There's nothing special about it.

Follow the owner's manual recommendations. Use a full synthetic if you like. If you have a "wet" clutch that shares the oil with the engine, don't use oil labeled "Energy Conserving".

Chris

Thanks for the feedback. You're right that I want to take care of the bike best I can. That said, it's far from the bike of my dreams..I just like to maintain all my vehicles and use the best products so they operate properly and last longer. That includes my '66 VW Beetle (sunroof) which I still have to this day. That said, having owned numerous bikes over my 30+ years of riding I've learned that not all engines are alike and neither are oils. That is why there are so many different formulations. In the case of Mobil 1 synthetic, for motorcycles they make a 4T and V-Twin. The V-twin formulation is better suited to air cooled motors and it contains higher a percentage of zinc and phosphorus. This formulation is different than the 4T or the numerous automobile formulations.

I asked the question because there are people who are far more experienced than myself with the bike, since it is new to me. It's safe to say the BMW's have their quirks and the odds are, the people on this forum have an opinion, so I'd like to hear what they have to say. I've read lots of posts of people who prefer Shell Rotella, etc...

 

[tangoalpha]

Since I'm not the original owner and I bought the bike from a dealer, I have no idea what brand/type of oil the previous owner used. I do know that an oil leak can develop in some cases if the bike has been on a steady diet of dino oil. So I guess I won't know until I give it a try. I was concerned about that when I switched my HD Ultra Classic from the factory fill dino oil to Mobil 1. I never had any issues. In fact, I used Mobil 1 in all three holes. Engine, tranny and primary. Worked great. But since I don't know the history on this bike and I'm new to the boxer engine, I thought I'd throw it out there in case there was a consensus that certain oils should be avoided. eg..excess bearing wear, etc.

Since BC1100S has 100,000KM on his bike and is running the V-twin formulation without issue, I feel better knowing that and will probably go ahead and try in my RT.

My only word of caution is if you know it has had synthetic, most likely no issues...however if it has never had synthetic in it's system, some older bikes,regardless of mileage, often start a nuisance leak.

Have seen seal leaks and a few gasket leaks in both engine and gear lube applications when syn was introduced. Sometimes not, but enough to take a WAG as to why. Some others here have experienced this as well.
H's '95 R does not like synthetic...ask me how I know this Her 02 1150R doesn't care anymore, but the FD did the first swap to syn from dino.

And ditto on meeting specs in the owners manual.

I am only responding to this dreaded oil thread because you seem to have a sense of humour.

I too have been a fan of Mobil 1 since about 1986. Been using it in every car and bike I've owned since then (including the lawn mower). I've been using Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil in my S since I got it. With over 100,000km on it now, it runs like new and uses no oil between changes.

As some will say, using any "in spec" oil, changed at the recommended intervals, will likely net you the same results. If you like the extra protection a synthetic gives you, I say go for it. Enjoy your new ride!

Edit: Henzilla makes a valid point regarding a nuisance leak. Although I have never experienced it, I know others have.

 

[BC1100S]

In fact, I used Mobil 1 in all three holes. Engine, tranny and primary. Worked great. But since I don't know the history on this bike and I'm new to the boxer engine, I thought I'd throw it out there in case there was a consensus that certain oils should be avoided.

I believe that using a synthetic lube in the final drive of our BMWs is generally a bad thing. I say this not from personal experience however I believe there are other, more knowledgeable, folks here who have seen less-than-optimum results. I could be wrong however it is my understanding that using a proper GL-5 rated lubricant in the recommended viscosity range is the right thing to do. I happen to use BelRay 80W-90 Hypoid Gear Oil and have had no issues. No reason not to use other manufacturers' products.

 

[happy wanderer]

Here's the thing for me. BMW oilheads did not come with synthetic oils in them from the factory. The manual does not call for synthetic oils in that bike. Doesn't mean it won't work so go ahead if you want to. It's on Kurt's oil test list with decent numbers but so is Castrol 20/50 SG rated 4 stroke motor oil for around five or six bucks a liter (quart).

Of if you want to spend more money on oil buy the Spectro 20/50 semi synthetic oil which is also a great choice and satisfies that synthetic itch many seem to have.

A tech filled my final drive with synthetic red stuff once and it leaked immediately. Swapped back to Castrol SAE 80/90 gear oil and it stopped.

I use those two products in both my airheads and my oilhead because they are exactly what the BMW spec for these bikes says to use. I figure the designers knew what was best so I just go with it.

 

[tangoalpha]

Thanks guys. Good input. That's the kind of info I was looking for. As far as Kurt's oil test list, would you happen to have a hyperlink? My search didn't come up with one.

I believe that using a synthetic lube in the final drive of our BMWs is generally a bad thing. I say this not from personal experience however I believe there are other, more knowledgeable, folks here who have seen less-than-optimum results. I could be wrong however it is my understanding that using a proper GL-5 rated lubricant in the recommended viscosity range is the right thing to do. I happen to use BelRay 80W-90 Hypoid Gear Oil and have had no issues. No reason not to use other manufacturers' products.

Here's the thing for me. BMW oilheads did not come with synthetic oils in them from the factory. The manual does not call for synthetic oils in that bike. Doesn't mean it won't work so go ahead if you want to. It's on Kurt's oil test list with decent numbers but so is Castrol 20/50 SG rated 4 stroke motor oil for around five or six bucks a liter (quart).

Of if you want to spend more money on oil buy the Spectro 20/50 semi synthetic oil which is also a great choice and satisfies that synthetic itch many seem to have.

A tech filled my final drive with synthetic red stuff once and it leaked immediately. Swapped back to Castrol SAE 80/90 gear oil and it stopped.

I use those two products in both my airheads and my oilhead because they are exactly what the BMW spec for these bikes says to use. I figure the designers knew what was best so I just go with it.

 

[20774]

TA -

You should probably get used to finding older Owners News articles since you're new here. They have the current ON as well as older ones archived on the main website. I get to them by going to the main site, then select Nav > More. There you will see the link to the current ON and back issues. Plenty of reading there!!

 

[tangoalpha]

Great idea. Thanks for the suggestion. There's definitely a lot of great resources on this site, I'm still finding my way around and getting familiar with everything. I'll definitely check out the Owners News articles as you suggested. By the way, is that where I wold find Kurts Oil Tests that was referred to earlier? I tried a search on this forum and came up with nothing.

TA -

You should probably get used to finding older Owners News articles since you're new here. They have the current ON as well as older ones archived on the main website. I get to them by going to the main site, then select Nav > More. There you will see the link to the current ON and back issues. Plenty of reading there!!

 

[happy wanderer]

Great idea. Thanks for the suggestion. There's definitely a lot of great resources on this site, I'm still finding my way around and getting familiar with everything. I'll definitely check out the Owners News articles as you suggested. By the way, is that where I wold find Kurts Oil Tests that was referred to earlier? I tried a search on this forum and came up with nothing.

Take note of the link at the bottom of 20774's posts called "Resources and Links". TONS of good info in there including the oil analysis done several years ago. Although the best attempt I've ever seen at putting some objectivity into oil threads, human nature dictates that perception is reality and the facts are not necessarily the driving force.

Oil Analysis (12/2012) - [url]http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....l=1#post842930 (Posts #83-86; also see March 2013 ON)[/URL]

 

[mikegalbicka]

Kurt/20774 also put together this great resource on how to do better searches of the forum content. Check out these tips. I use #3 a lot with good results.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?77843-Tips-on-Searching-the-MOA-Forum

 

[tangoalpha]

WOW! Thanks to both of you guys for the tips. It's truly appreciated...very much.
happy wanderer;1071726, To your point about "Perception is reality and the facts are not necessarily the driving force." I find that amusing. After hearing that so many times before, I went ahead and coined my own phrase. "Your perception of reality has nothing to do with reality itself. Reality stands on it's own, whether you choose to believe it or not. Your belief is what determines how in touch with reality you are." Human nature is a funny thing indeed.

Thanks again for the tips and support guys.

Take note of the link at the bottom of 20774's posts called "Resources and Links". TONS of good info in there including the oil analysis done several years ago. Although the best attempt I've ever seen at putting some objectivity into oil threads, human nature dictates that perception is reality and the facts are not necessarily the driving force.

Oil Analysis (12/2012) - [url]http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....l=1#post842930 (Posts #83-86; also see March 2013 ON)[/URL]

Kurt/20774 also put together this great resource on how to do better searches of the forum content. Check out these tips. I use #3 a lot with good results.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?77843-Tips-on-Searching-the-MOA-Forum

 

[BC1100S]

I'll definitely check out the Owners News articles as you suggested.

There's a guy whose name I forget D) but who posts here regularly and used to write monthly tech articles which frequently covered our Oilheads. I learned more than I thought I ever could by reading those monthly columns. Probably part of the reason I've had a trouble-free experience with my bike.