Steering lock stuck, bike stranded.

[wpbixler]

I have a 2004 R1150RT-P that is parked 2 miles away from my house with a stuck steering lock. It is locked in the parking light on position (I didn't know that was a thing as this bike is new to me). I have tried both keys, in every position imaginable. I first tried soaking the locking mechanism with lock lubricant, no success. I've since moved on to spraying WD-40 into the cylinder, still no dice. The keys seem to seat all the way into the lock, but I have also tried turning the cylinder with the keys in varying depths. I have also tried pushing the locking pawl out from inside the steering head (It is accessible since I had the tupperware off this bike for maintenance). The pawl seems to want to move when I turn the key, but it won't press out of the hole. I have also tried raking the inside of the lock with a pick, and rapping the outside of the lock cylinder with a rubber mallet.

This bike is new to me, I bought it from a coworker with a bad fuel pump. It sat outside at his house for 1.5 years, under a cover. I just got the bike running again, and this was my second test ride. I haven't had any problems with the lock prior, but this was the first time using the steering lock.

I have disconnected the battery, and the busy street where it is parked has no time limits on the weekend, so hopefully I can get this figured out soon. Unfortunately, it is pretty hard to move a bike with a locked steering (kind of the point). Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get this thing unlocked, or get the locking mechanism out of the bike so I can move it (either by riding or trailer if need be)?

 

[Omega Man]

Welcome to the forum!
This comes up from time to time. You have done the usual, may free itself by tomorrow. Tapping, wiggling with pressure on the key usually does in........That and a fresh perspective in the morning.
Good luck.
Gary

 

[SHAG]

Does the ignition key match the system cases? Do they keys work in the seat release? Have you tried moving the handlebars back and forth gently while trying to turn the key/lock?

 

[wpbixler]

Thanks for the welcome! Yes, the keys match the top case as well as the panniers. They appear to be OEM keys (stamped with a BMW logo) but I have no idea if they are the originals that came with the bike. I have tried moving the handlebars in every way imaginable, as well as manipulating the locking pawl directly.

 

[pglaves]

This happened to Voni's R1100RS in a campground in Montana: a 200 mile tow to the nearest dealership. So before I called roadside assistance we fiddled and fiddled. Wiggle the key, wiggle the handlebars, wiggle both. I gave up in disgust. Voni walked over and tried and on about her third attempt it came unlocked. Keep trying, and then NEVER use the thing again.

 

[gsaddict]

Try putting the bike on the centerstand and unloading the suspension in the front. Go thru all the motions again.

 

[pauls1150]

Where (generally) is it? Maybe we have somebody in the neighborhood to give you a second set of eyes and hands...?
Maybe the "P" version has some "extra security" feature?

 

[wpbixler]

I got it unlocked, thanks everyone for the advice. Went back to the bike this AM with tools ready to drill out the bolts holding the lock housing in place as a last resort. First i took out the switch from the bottom (one set screw on the R side of the housing). Still wouldn't budge. I then used a vise grip on the key to wiggle it with a little more leverage, and that did the trick!

The lock mechanism seems a little sticky and like it could get stuck again, even just going from off to run (I have no intention of using steering locks ever again). I don't think I can trust this mechanism to not leave me stranded again. Does anyone have insight on what parts I should replace to make this thing more reliable? Can any regular locksmith rekey an oilhead ignition key cylinder, or is it a dealership only, big money job?

 

[gsaddict]

A lock smith can easily rekey provided he has tumblers.
The assembly is removed in the on position with the key in. See below.

I have a lower lock assembly in good functional condition if you are interested, pm me.

 

[wpbixler]

A lock smith can easily rekey provided he has tumblers.
The assembly is removed in the on position with the key in. See below.

I have a lower lock assembly in good functional condition if you are interested, pm me.

PM sent.

 

[Rinty]

WP: Glad you got it fixed and welcome to the Forum. You were lucky this happened close to home. I always like to do a shake down ride before I take a new-to-me machine on a trip.

While I've never had a malfunction, I've always been a bit wary of steering head locks, and now there's an electronic one in my new machine....I haven't used it yet.

I give my locks a shot of silicon spray once a year, but I'm sure everyone has their favourite stuff.

 

[pglaves]

My general advice is that if you buy a bike new and use the fork lock frequently and regularly then doing so might be "safe." If however you have a bike (new or used) which has rarely had the forks locked then don't use it at all ever. The mechanism is somewhat exposed to weather and dust and grit and the key is a poor lever tool to use to unstick it.

If you live or otherwise park at locations where you feel you need the bike locked for security then use it all the time or don't use it. A good fork lock might be a better sollution. So might a big chain, hefty lock, and tree, post, or pole.

 

[wpbixler]

Yeah I will certainly be avoiding using steering locks from this point forward. I use a disc lock on my airhead when I feel the need, as the steering lock has never worked on that bike anyway. I'll pick one up for the oilhead I guess.

 

[pauls1150]

My bikes' steering locks have always gotten a thorough douche with liquid graphite lube; but that puts the stuff on the key too, which is messy, so I follow that up with a Teflon spray to clean it up. LOTS of paper towels around and under the lock... Never a problem.

I'm guessing that WBP's lock has (hopefully "had") either a burr or piece of grit on a tumbler.

 

[gsaddict]

My bikes' steering locks have always gotten a thorough douche with liquid graphite lube; but that puts the stuff on the key too, which is messy, so I follow that up with a Teflon spray to clean it up. LOTS of paper towels around and under the lock... Never a problem.

I'm guessing that WBP's lock has (hopefully "had") either a burr or piece of grit on a tumbler.

Just keep the graphite away from the electrical portion.

 

[BC1100S]

Just keep the graphite away from the electrical portion.

I'd never thought of it before but thats excellent advice.

 

[Omega Man]

WD-40 is an excellent flushing liquid. Once clean, I like Tri-Flow, TF20027.
OM

 

[pauls1150]

Sound advice, now that you mention it, as graphite is partially conductive... but it's never been a problem for many years and many bikes. Either it stays trapped in the mechanism, or the follow-up Teflon spray washes it out.

 

[pglaves]

I don't think the problem was in the ignition lock part of the mechanism at all. I think the part that engages the fork stem so it can't turn is what got stuck and the poor little key in the lock lacks the leverage to withdraw the stuck part(s).

 

[pauls1150]

Post 8, Paragraph 2 seems to dispute that...