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It is the same set of tapered roller bearings from the /5's through the K1100 series. Size is 52mm x 28mm x 16mm
Removing the lower inner race and both outer races is the usual unpleasant job that it always is with steering heads.
I used these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BOZE898/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Everything that you need is here.
The first time I replaced a set of steering head bearings, I was told that the cost of the bearing was the smallest part of the job and that the most of the job is dismantling and then reinstalling the front end of the bike. I was advised to replace the bearings even though it was possible that cleaning, lubing and reinstalling them might be adequate. After I had spent several hours doing the work, I could see the wisdom of that advice.
Can't agree with that. The bearings are just about all of the cost of the job if you do it yourself. What you describe is "shop logic" where the customer is paying $80+ per hour to get to the bearings and they do not want to risk a dissatisfied customer when for a few bucks of the customer's money they can cinch the outcome. The shop also has the tools and expertise to make the race removal and installation quick and painless.
For the average home mechanic, it is significantly less work if the races can be left in place (other than the top inner) and the parts simply cleaned and re-greased. If people did this service (and preload adjustment) more often, there would be fewer bearing replacements going on. The key is to determine correctly whether the bearing is good, or bad. It is easy to see brinnelling marks on the races or detect roughness with the cleaned parts that would indicate the need to replace them. I'm not saying to scrimp and re-use bad bearings, only that there is no need to replace good bearings. Save them for next time. If you have the correct mandrels, presses, and pullers (not a hammer and a drift) and you use heat and cold correctly to pre-condition the parts for re-assembly, then the operation goes without too much frustration and profanity. Without these, you can expect a long hard day and actually risk damaging the headstock or the steering shaft.
I'm not a fan of the All Balls brand, and not surprised that they can't properly assemble a fitment chart. They use lower quality parts sourced from this or that Chinese source as economics and availability indicate. Tolerances are not as big a deal with a headstock bearing because they move slowly, and not even a full turn. So in this application they would probably work fine. The advantage with them is they kit everything together and put the name of your bike on the ordering sheet. I'd rather have brand name bearings and buy the dust seal from BMW.
+2. Have a good look at the lower before replacing and don't if it's in good shape. Also, make sure it's fully seated if you replace it.
I hold no value in just replacing either the upper or lower bearing by itself.