Steering Head Adjustment

[brittrunyon]

I just finished cleaning & greasing the steering head bearing for the first time (50k miles) & after reading Snobums & others articles, I'm still a bit confused on the adjusting procedure.
The image shows the adjustment nut marked prior to removal.
<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/?action=view&current=PB133751.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/PB133751.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


1. Do I tighten the allen bolts on the top brace to secure the fork tubes & loosen (as I have read) the lower brace bolts to allow the forks to move up or will having the top bolts loose allow the bearing to seat?
2. Is the first adjustment done with the adjustment cap? Seems I have to use channel locks on the adjustment cap and snug it up "really" tight (going past the original mark) to get the bars not to fall to one side or the other.
3. Then it's the cap nut to 47 ft lbs.
4. Then it the lock nut to 47 ft lbs.

Is this right?

There is no "notching" noted

 

[JT_R1200RT]

I will give you what I just did on my 1984 R100, the climber manual basically stated you set the adjuster nut bearing pre-load by feel. Here was the procedure I followed.

1) I left the forks out when I set the adjuster nut and bearing pre-load.

2) I supported the steering tree from the bottom and tapped the top bearing down onto the steering head into the bearing race.

3) I then tightened the adjuster nut down very snugly to seat the bearings, then loosened the adjuster nut.

3) I then proceeded by feel to set the bearing adjuster nut to take out free play in the steering head tree but still allow a smooth rotation of the bearings when turning the steering head assembly from side to side. I repeated this several times until it felt right. When it's too tight you will feel the bearings bind and the rotation will not be smooth.

4) I then set the headlight bracket assembly into place and inserted the forks while still leaving the pinch bolts loose so the fork tubes could move.

5) I then placed the top steering head plate into place and lightly screwed on the top lock nut still allowing the top plate to move.

6) I then screwed in the fork tube caps through the steering head top plate and torqued them to spec.

7) Then I torqued the lock nut down on the steering head assembly, so the forks and all parts should be properly aligned.

8) I then tightened to fork pinch bolts to spec.

9) I then put the front wheel back on, buttoned everything up and verified there was no free play in the steering head.

10 ) The Final test was the test ride and everything was good. No head shake from loose bearings on slow speed decelerations from 35-40mph down, and on cornering the bike leans and turns correctly into the corners showing no signs of the bearings being too tight and holding the steering head from turning.

I hope this helps.

-JT

 

[brittrunyon]

Thanks JT......... it helps.
I got the torque values from Antone here http://www.largiader.com/bearings/ but Climers/Snobum says 80 ft lbs on the cap nut & lock nut.

 

[JT_R1200RT]

You are correct the climber manual stated 80fbs, that is what I used on the cap nut, it looked right for the steel steering head shaft and the size of the nut.

-JT

 

[lmo1131]

Climber Manual

Clymer Manual

 

[brittrunyon]

Got Me..........................

Climber Manual

Clymer Manual

Hay I only missed it by one letter.............................
"i" rhymes with "y".....doesn't that count?

 

[JT_R1200RT]

The pictures are a nice touch

 

[brittrunyon]

All Buttoned Up!

Thanks for the input...............Loaded the bike up for the Turkey Day trip to Panama

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/?action=view&current=PB153778.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/PB153778.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

did a test ride, sunny & 50 degrees, & tapped the bars at 30 mph & the wobble didn't happen...........I think I got it right!

New tires this week & I'm good to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS Still not sure way Antone has a torque value of 47 ft lbs?

 

[happy wanderer]

Great you got it fixed! Always a good feeling when you first ride a job well done.

But still not sure why you call him "Antone" because his name is Anton.

 

[brittrunyon]

Great you got it fixed! Always a good feeling when you first ride a job well done.

But still not sure why you call him "Antone" because his name is Anton.

Oops, did it again.....missed it by one letter..........Sorry Anton.

 

[brittrunyon]

Not good

The "tap the bars at 30mph" test produced a wobble on my last ride, seems the adjustment did not last long.
Here's a before & after the clean up of the lower bearing.
<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/?action=view&current=PB133763.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/PB133763.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/?action=view&current=PB133764.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/PB133764.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Couple of things:
1. When adjusting the "adjustment ring" I had to put a channel lock on it to get the bearings tight enough so that the bars did not fall freely with a tap, is this always the case? Is it always necessary to use a wrench on it?
2. Can bearings be wore out without producing the "notch" feeling?

These bearings are the originals (19 years & 50k miles)

 

[brittrunyon]

Anybody?.......................................................................................................

 

[lmo1131]

Anybody?.......................................... .................................................. ...........

eahh.. . we're just ignoring you Britt

I can't say for sure about the adjustment ring.

With regards to the bearing(s), they're so OVER engineered for the load that a taper bearing of that size can sustain that the only thing that can go wrong with them is either the "notching" or corrosion. I suppose a cage could break.

Judging from the photos it doesn't look you have a corrosion problem.

Maintenance-wise: a periodic grease job/inspection, and rotate the bearings so that the rollers aren't riding the races in the same place all the time.

 

[moosehead]

Here's Anton's write up on the R100GS steering head bearing adjustment procedure...somewhat different for the GS vs other airheads...excellent write up. Good luck!

http://largiader.com/bearings/

 

[brittrunyon]

Here's Anton's write up on the R100GS steering head bearing adjustment procedure...somewhat different for the GS vs other airheads...excellent write up. Good luck!

http://largiader.com/bearings/

Thanks............I'm presently involved in removing the races.....
I'll definitely be following Anton's guidelines........

 

[brittrunyon]

After replacing the bearings & races, then using these guide lines on setting the adjustment:
http://largiader.com/bearings/

I find:
1. the handle bars drop quickly from side to side,with the bike on the center stand.
2. it fails "Snobum's" (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/search.htm) tap the bars at 30 mph test.........

Tomorrow I'll try & tighten up the bearings a bit..............

 

[toooldtocare]

I found that snugging them down till they are tight, then backing off until just loose works best for me when adjusting the bearings. A tad tight seems to be better than a tad loose. Also, a tiny fraction of a turn is enough sometimes.

 

[AntonLargiader]

PS Still not sure way Antone has a torque value of 47 ft lbs?

...I'll definitely be following Anton's guidelines.....

They're not my guidelines; they're the BMW spec. That's why it says 65Nm: because that's what BMW says. The procedure for this type of SHB is simply unlike the procedure for older SHB systems that lock the bearing adjustment differently.

 

[brittrunyon]

They're not my guidelines; they're the BMW spec. That's why it says 65Nm: because that's what BMW says. The procedure for this type of SHB is simply unlike the procedure for older SHB systems that lock the bearing adjustment differently.

Thanks for the clarification.................