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Remote oil filters?

S

sumran

Guest
I have seen references to remote oil filters, though I don't know any details about what is available. Since I have a 1980 R100 RT, I have the oil cooler and the unmodified exhaust system that gets in the way of changing the filter. A daily rider following the recommended changing schedule spends too much time with the oil filter.

I am no expert, but I also understand how important the proper fit of the filter is for oil pressure and circulation. I would never want to risk engine problems to gain easier filter changes.

Does anyone have information or experience they can share. Thanks.
 
I think Terry at Suburban Machinery in Cleveland used to make the remote oil filter kit, but has since discontinued the product. They were quite handy for Airhead sidecar applications.

Terry's phone number should still be in ON.....maybe he would sell you the parts separately.
 
remote oil filters

I had a look at the Suburban Machinery one some years ago, and decided against installing it because the system eliminated the oil thermostat.

When I had the airhead, I would just change the filter every other time.

Rinty
 
I had a look at the Suburban Machinery one some years ago, and decided against installing it because the system eliminated the oil thermostat.

When I had the airhead, I would just change the filter every other time.

Rinty

Changing every other time was my plan. My mechanic had suggested changing oil every 1500 miles. That leaves me changing filters every 3000 miles. I put on a lot of miles, so that is pretty frequent. Perhaps that oil change interval is too short. Or, if I am changing oil that often every third change may be enough on the filter.

What does the thermostat do on an air cooled engine? I did not know airheads had one. Does it shut down the engine if it overheats?
 
Gold mine

I would think that if someone made a reasonably priced remote filter kit they could sell a bajillion of them. I'd be their first customer.
 
remote oil filters

Sumran:

The thermostat, when closed, prevents oil circulation to the cooler, so you get a faster warm up. It starts to open, gradually, at 176 F and by 230 F is fully open. The thermostat is in the filter chamber cover. It will not shut down the engine if it overheats; you avoid overheating by not allowing extended idling (say, 10 minutes or so, but there are differing opinions on the length of time).

At the risk of opening a can of worms, I would suggest that a 1500 mile oil change interval is very conservative if your riding cycles are long ones, i.e. no or few short commutes. (But you'll get lots of opinions on this one).

Some owners have done some or all or some of the following to improve access to the filter cover:

flattening the exhaust pipe a bit in the cover vicinity
replace the allen bolts with hex head bolts to enable access with an open end wrench
cutting a small opening in the lower fairing, just big enough to access the cover
using a high quality ball ended T handle allen wrench to get the allen bolts out

I would suggest you do a detailed search in the airhead section of the Forum for other solutions, or register at the Airhead site and do some searches in their oil threads sections. There are tons of them.

Good oilin'!

Rinty
 
Last edited:
Sumran:

Some owners have done some or all or some of the following to improve access to the filter cover:

flattening the frame a bit in the cover vicinity
replace the allen bolts with hex head bolts to enable access with an open end wrench
cutting a small opening in the lower fairing, just big enough to access the cover
using a high quality ball ended T handle allen wrench to get the allen bolts out

Rinty

I think there has been flattening of the exhaust pipe, but never was aware of anyone flattening the frame until now.
The early airheads had hex headed bolts. I kind of like the allen.
Folks have usually managed to use the T handle allen sucessfully on two of the bolts, but then drilled a small hole in the fairing lower in line with the third bolt allowing access to it. I think that is what you meant by small opening.
 
Sumran:

The thermostat, when closed, prevents oil circulation to the cooler, so you get a faster warm up. It starts to open, gradually, at 176 F and by 230 F is fully open. The thermostat is in the filter chamber cover. It will not shut down the engine if it overheats; you avoid overheating by not allowing extended idling (say, 10 minutes or so, but there are differing opinions on the length of time).

At the risk of opening a can of worms, I would suggest that a 1500 mile oil change interval is very conservative if your riding cycles are long ones, i.e. no or few short commutes. (But you'll get lots of opinions on this one).

Some owners have done some or all or some of the following to improve access to the filter cover:

flattening the frame a bit in the cover vicinity
replace the allen bolts with hex head bolts to enable access with an open end wrench
cutting a small opening in the lower fairing, just big enough to access the cover
using a high quality ball ended T handle allen wrench to get the allen bolts out

I would suggest you do a detailed search in the airhead section of the Forum for other solutions, or register at the Airhead site and do some searches in their oil threads sections. There are tons of them.

Good oilin'!

Rinty

Appreciate the input. The stock fairing on my bike has been replaced by a Parabellum Scout, so fairing lower is not an issue. I can get the bolts out, but the exhaust is in the way. I do a lot of in town riding (better than not getting to ride) but I mix in longer stretches when I can. I am going to research the oil issue more. I have the leaks stopped, so I may go to a synthetic for longer intervals.
 
I think Terry at Suburban Machinery in Cleveland used to make the remote oil filter kit, but has since discontinued the product. They were quite handy for Airhead sidecar applications.

Terry's phone number should still be in ON.....maybe he would sell you the parts separately.

Information to save Terry some aggravation: The kit is no longer available and the parts to make a complete one are not available. A diagram of the kit is not available. Thanks Terry and staff for the kindness and info.

I have heard different ideas about the appropriate mileage for filter changes. I would welcome information about proper change interval (miles) on the filter and how it might be affected by city versus distance riding.
 
Remote Oil Filter relocation Kit

I am very interested in getting an oil filter relocation kit for my 1982 R100RT. I just picked it up recently with a sidecar rig and part of the side car mount just about rests on top of the oil filter cap. I may have to disconnect the hack (no easy chore on this one) this time to change the filter but do not want to make a habit of it. I read thru all these threads yesterday and am still drawing a blank.

Suburban Machinery stopped making those kits 10 years ago.
All the other threads, unless I am missing something, lead in circles.
I did find a reference to a Perf Cool oil filter relocation kit for a Yamaha Cruiser but no mention if it would work on an airhead. Would it?

Any one else have any leads on this? Any technical thing I should look out for?

It does seem like a good idea to mount a spin on filter outside the engine for a lot of reasons and it shouldn't be that difficult. There is always a catch though. What is it?

Jim
 
Perhaps so but I think this endeaver would be worth it. I was kinda surprised at how many people are having trouble changing the stock oil filter due to location and the number of various o rings, shims and seals. I would think that making this an external spin on would be a big improvement for us less mechanically inclined people. I actaullt saw, at a national rally, some years ago....an airhead converted to burn propane. He had two gas grill tanks, one on each side and rode with that. So I know just about anything can be done with these bikes. And besides...there is always the challenge!!

Jim:bikes
 
As I sit here referring to the owners manual for a 1975 R90 about how often to change oil I am surely glad I am not an engineer trying to figure these things out. This owner's manual published by BMW states that the engine should be serviced at least twice a year or every 5000 miles....................Seems that this ol brain has gone by that for several hundred thousands of miles on at least a couple of bikes with NO major catastrophes...............but what do those durn German engineers know?................Dennis
 
I hear ya Dennis!

Does it say anything about what to do when the sidecar mount rests right up against the oil filter plate?
 
Does it say anything about what to do when the sidecar mount rests right up against the oil filter plate?

Scratchin the ol brain here; but no doesnt say anything about sidecar useage except that the bike wasn't designed for that use..............If I remember right back in the 70's and 80's guys would do the engine swap out into a /2 frame with an engine that would pull..............was something to see a VW engine fit that way......guess NO problems there cause just as the /2 the VW had no filter..............I guess another route to go would be to do some frame alterations like the guy in last month's NEWS did................Dennis
 
You might want to look into altering the front lower sidecar mount. I have a hack on a 1974 R90/6 and I have access to the oil filter without too much trouble. I did have to go to the hinged version of the filter. The subframe on it was made by Dauntless. If you want some pictures of my mounts I can try to take a few. Also if you are in the MD/PA area you're welcome to come look at it.

j.
 
If the thermostat gets in the way, remove it. The R100R/GS/Mystic have a cooler without the thermostat and they work just fine. I don't know if the filter-cover is the same with or without the thermostat, but on my R100R the cooler-hoses attach to the cover with banjo-type fittings. I do NOT have to remove the header to get the filter out- the job is quick & easy.
 
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