R1150RT Oil Leak

[jurive]

Hi To everyone hope you have been enjoying the ride. Although very hot in Texas. My question is about my 04 R1150RT. I bought it pre-owned in 04. Very low milesfrom my dealer. I only have about 21000 on it now. It's been a good bike. My 2nd Beemer, my first an 88 R100RT I had for 14 yrs. Like many articles I've read on the oilheads it to seemed to use a little more oil than what I thought was normal. About 8 to 10 ounces or so between oil changes. About 2years ago I noticed the cavity on the left cyclinder head just behind where the exhast header attaches was filled with what best I can explain a oil sludge cake up. This I cleaned up but would notice an oily film would develop at times after a ride, but not all the time. I took it to my dealer. He said he thought he knew what it was and did indeed repair it. Since then I have not really experienced any oil loss of any significance. Last week after a 100 mile ride I could barely see oil in the sight glass. My first reaction was to check the cavity in the left cyclinder head and sure enough its got an oily film and light sludge film developing? My question is has anyone had this broblem. What was it? My dealer never really said what it was just that it was fixed. I will be checking with him soon. But i thought I could get some insight here on the forum. Maybe fix it myself! Good Day and God Bless!!

Marlin,Texas
2004 R1150RT
2002 kawasaki KLR 650

 

[DrPaul]

oil leak?

Nice ride! I have the same in silver. There is a round rubber seal that prevents oil seepage between the valve cover and the cylinder head around the spark plug channel. An oil film and road crud will sometimes build up in there. It is not a likely source of leakage unless you are seeing a puddle below that area. You can snug the 4 valve cover bolts as they sometimes loosen a bit over time. Use extreme caution not to overtighten as they are easily stripped. I use a T-handle Torx wrench and hand tighten only.

Your bike is still relatively low miles and is not yet fully broken in. I imagine oil consumption will lessen over time and more miles.

 

[jurive]

R1150RT oil leak

DrPaul-Thanks for the info. I thought about the valve covers and tried tightening them. But they were very snug and to get them to turn I would have had to really tourque them. So I decided that was good enough there. Now the spark plug o-ring makes more sense. The oil seems to be seeping from deep behind the header/exhaust. I thought I could see some smooth black looking rubber gasket of some sort but checking schematics I really couldn't tell what it was for sure. Guess it's part of the sparkplug rubber gasket!!! Somewhat embarrassed because I use to do all the maintenence on my 88 R100RT. But I have been intimidated by the oilhead. I wonder now if removing the valve cover and removing the spargplug cover and pulling the O-ring to give it a good inspection and clean would stop the seepeage? Have a great day and thanks for all the help.

Marlin,Texas
2004 R1150RT
2002 Kawasaki KLR 650

 

[lazywizard02]

Been there done that. Changed everything else and then did the head gasket. There is a potential weak spot at a narrowing of the oil passage wall to outside world at the bottom front of the system.

I think the 600 mile retorque is supposed to get max life out of that.

Changed my '96 RT gasket ~20,000 mi ago, now on 70k and using Synthetic. I have added no oil between changes since.

 

[bikerfish1100]

if you're only seeing oil above the left cylinder- take a look at the oil fill cap. that is a known point of seepage, with the plastic cap and/or seal degrading over time.

 

[jurive]

BMW R1150RT oil leak

Been there done that. Changed everything else and then did the head gasket. There is a potential weak spot at a narrowing of the oil passage wall to outside world at the bottom front of the system.

I think the 600 mile retorque is supposed to get max life out of that.

Changed my '96 RT gasket ~20,000 mi ago, now on 70k and using Synthetic. I have added no oil between changes since.

Wow! I sure didn't want to hear that. But sounds like you have experienced the same problem. Sounds good that you don't have the seepage since replacing the head gasket. Many ditto's for sharing all the information. Did you have it done at the dealer or do it yourself? I will have to have this looked into but for right now it's just an annoying thing. Hate to loss of oil although minimum, just doesn't seem right for such a wonderful machine.

Marlin,Texas
BMW R1150RT
Kawasaki KLR 650

 

[lazywizard02]

Did it myself with help of wrenching buddy and a six pack. I did just the one head.

The only trick is to follow procedures/sequence and it is a bit of a struggle to break torque on the camshaft.

Read up on it herein after doing a search. there are good hints for tiewrapping the sprocket and chain together and other methods to get a good re-assy.

While you are at it with 20 k miles, you may want to go ahead and change your fuel filter (normally at 24k) uprate your headlight bulb, check/change brake fluid, check/change final drive and transmission, and go get a chevy freeze plug for a emergency sight glass replacement (don't panic but read other threads).

Check the Austin Riders for a Tech Daze event and join up. People helping people. You can do it all in a day, you just need cool down time before torquing.

It's all worth it. Especially when you are in the zone 1,000 miles from home.

 

[flars]

oil leak

"I thought about the valve covers and tried tightening them..."
As noted by others, the problem is probably the rubber donut that seals around the spark plug. They often get a little kattywumpus and leak. Remove the valve cover and extract the rubber donut. Put the donut back in place on the valve cover (don't stick it down in the deep spark plug recess- you will have trouble putting the valve cover back on if you do). Clean the valve cover gasket with a rag.
Put the valve cover back on. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE VALVE COVER BOLTS. These bolts WILL pull the threads out of the head if you overtighten them. They require VERY little torque. The bolts have a ridge on them that bottoms out against the head. Always use a very small wrench to tighten these bolts down so you feel the ridge make contact. When you feel that contact, walk away. Even with very little torque on these bolts, the valve cover gasket won't leak.