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2002 R1150RT cylinder base oil leak fix: new parts needed and who sells complete kit?

squeaki40wnc

New member
Hey Fellow Oilheads, I got an oil leak coming from the base of left side cylinder where it meets the engine case on a 02 R1150RT. I'm watching some YT videos and searching around for the set of parts/tools needed to make the leak go away. Looks like I need a new cylinder head gasket, new cylinder base gasket or gasket sealer (no gasket-just sealer?), cylinder locator dowel O-rings, & not sure what else. I've got a new cam chain tensioner and crush washer ready to go when I reassemble. Specials tools include piston ring compressor & some kind of degree dial wrench gage for the primary and secondary 90 degree turns past original torque in cross pattern for cylinder crankcase stud nuts. I'll make my own gage system to mark the 90 degree turns. Looks like I need the special silicone gasket sealer (ThreeBond1207B) for the cylinder base to engine case surface. It looks like there is no preformed gasket between the cylinder base and the mating surface of the engine case--just silicone sealer? Is this correct? The Clymer manual is not very clear on this issue nor are the YT videos I've watched thus far.

Any help or advice on how-to or best places to get all the necessary parts would be appreciated. I have the cylinder head gasket from Euro MotoElectrics in hand.

Thanks, SqueakI40WNC
 
Hi Squeak and welcome to the peanut gallery! 🥜
Here are just a few popular sources, there are many more:
https://www.aspowersports.com/parts-accessories/ and https://www.aspowersports.com/order-parts/
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/
https://www.bobsmotorcycles.com/
And you're correct, no gasket at the cylinder base, just some pucky like ThreeBond, Yamabond, etc.
I haven't heard of anybody pre-assembling a "Kit" for the job; most of us just go thru the parts fiche and pick out what we think we need.
 
Specials tools include piston ring compressor & some kind of degree dial wrench gage for the primary and secondary 90 degree turns past original torque in cross pattern for cylinder crankcase stud nuts. I'll make my own gage system to mark the 90 degree turns.
Another approach is to carefully slide the cylinder up just far enough to allow removing the wrist pin, and leave the piston/cylinder mated together. No ring compressor needed, no broken rings, just need to have new 2 wrist pin retainers on hand, one for each piston. Stuff the crankcase hole with rags before removing the pin, lest a rod drop loose and mar the mating surface on the case or a pin retainer fly loose and go into the gaping hole.

Best,
DeVern

EDIT: And most auto parts stores have pretty inexpensive angle torque gauges available; it’s not a complicated tool by any means
 
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