R1150R dies - starts after cooling down, then dies again

[jeff.ferguson]

So I just sold my r1150r because we're moving and I needed some cash. The nice folks who bought it said they didn't even get a 100 miles away and it died on them. They let it cool down, then it started and it went about 6 miles and it died again. Any hints as to what might be causing this. I had to bypass the engine cut off switch a while back because a wire got disconnected somewhere, but other than that, I have never, ever had a single problem with the bike. I'm obviously giving them their money back, but now I need to figure out WTF.

Any pointers would be appreciated....

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Doing some online research - could it be the Hall Sensor? Seems to have the symptoms of a Hall Sensor or associated wiring failure.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Is the charcoal canister still installed?

Fuel in the charcoal canister is a possibility. After you start, it takes a while before the canister vent solenoid is actuates. When the valve opens it may be gulping fuel and stalling.

 

[gsaddict]

Classic symptoms of a failing hall sensor assembly.
They can be repaired with teflon wire.
PM me if you want it rebuilt and the owner has the time.
Make sure it's not a fuel delivery issue first.

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Charcoal canister was not on the bike when I bought it, so that's not it.

 

[jeff.ferguson]

Classic symptoms of a failing hall sensor assembly.
They can be repaired with teflon wire.
PM me if you want it rebuilt and the owner has the time.
Make sure it's not a fuel delivery issue first.

Is there a diagram somewhere on line where I can actually see what the Hall sensor is and where it is? I read that it is often only the wiring, not the sensor itself - true? How much for a new sensor and how much to repair?

I am still the owner unless they want to buy it with a faulty sensor - which I doubt they would.

 

[gsaddict]

Image

Item #2 "B"

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0005368.png?v=04282014


02 12 11 7 673 277 IGNITION SENSOR 0.35 1 $318.74

 

[23217]

Quick overview: On the front of the engine is a cover. Remove the cover. Then remove the alternator belt. Then remove the pulley. The HES is located behind the pulley. Mark where the plate is located. Remove the plate and replace with a new HES. The upper connector is under the gas tank. Or, replace the wiring. Either way. If you replace the wiring, you need heat-resistant wire, like Teflon or Silicone casing. Then check the timing. Reassemble.

 

[bc1100s]

Does the bike need to cool down before it restarts? if no, here's a shot in the dark...clogged fuel cap vent? When the bike conks out open the gas cap - if you hear a whooshing sound it could well be the cap is not venting and therefore starving the engine of fuel. Its a long shot but there you go.

 

[oldnslow]

...I'm obviously giving them their money back, ....

Outstanding gesture. May you be rewarded 10 fold in your future!

 

[ragtoplvr]

Look at the tach while cranking. If the tach does not register cranking RPM, then the hall for sure.

Rod

 

[JamesInCA]

If it turns out to be the Hall sensor, the same part is also available from the nice folks at EuroMotoElectrics for $90 less: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-Hall-Effect-Sensor-R1150-12-11-7-673-277-p/boignsen-r277.htm

 

[tourer1150]

Is there a diagram somewhere on line where I can actually see what the Hall sensor is and where it is? I read that it is often only the wiring, not the sensor itself - true? How much for a new sensor and how much to repair? I am still the owner unless they want to buy it with a faulty sensor - which I doubt they would.

Hello Jeff, this PDF file (1.354KB) should help you. Diagnosing and Replacing the Oilhead Hall Effect Ignition Impulse Sending Unit. Available at
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors

 

[mcrenshaw]

Here is an alternative to the HES alone. You would still have to solder this part in. http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall_effect_sensor_cyhme56.html

 

[happy wanderer]

Hall effect sensor failure is _extremely_ rare. What fails in the Oilhead Hall Effect Sensor Assembly is the wiring. Specifically on the units where the wires from the hall effect sensors end and are crimped to the wires that extend the harness up to the plug. The failure area is just a couple of inches up from the sensors behind the little clamp that holds the harness to the back of the HES plate and upwards from there. When you see a bad one you will notice the wires coming from the sensors themselves are perfect because it is rated for high temperature. The wire going up from there is not. Heat and moisture destroy the insulation and it cracks open and shorts.

If the harness has failed you just need to have it rewired with high temperature rated Teflon wire. RARELY will you need new sensors.

 

[Gregory]

Hall sensor fix

If it turns out to be the hall sensor, Beemer Boneyard has Bosch sensors for $200- $225 range. Just replaced mine ( 99 RT ). Fired right up. Also 10% MOA discount. Stand up guys you can trust. Good luck, Gregory