I currently have a 1985 K100RT and am looking at buying a low mileage R1100RT or R1150RT. My riding style is touring country roads. I'm on the short side, 5ft 6in, 165 Lbs. What are the main differences between 1100 and 1150RT's? Is one more reliable than the other? Is one better for short legged riders? What should I watch for when looking and test riding? Thanks, Jim
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R1100RT or R1150RT
- Thread starter oldcarman
- Start date
m_stock10506
Well-known member
As an 1100RT rider I’ll give you my biased opinion. Both bikes have similar or identical height and suspension. Rear shock is a different part but the stance is similar. Your adaptation to ride height is best handled by the seat, reducing width and seat height. Modification by an auto or marine upholstery shop would be less than one of the custom seat makers. Changing suspension components to lower tihe height is costly, changes clearance and makes it harder to sell later.
1150 has 6 speed transmission, iABS, and most are dual plugged. Personally I think the 5 speed is great, iABS is much more difficult to maintain and more likely to fail. A well tuned 1100 doesn’t surge, so I don’t think the dual plugs are necessary. Previous maintenance of the bike you choose is important since there are several items on both of these models that should be upgraded if they weren’t already.
Don’t shy away from well maintained high mileage bikes. I believe that BMWs run better when they are used regularly. Long spells of no use create more problems than putting on miles.
1150 has 6 speed transmission, iABS, and most are dual plugged. Personally I think the 5 speed is great, iABS is much more difficult to maintain and more likely to fail. A well tuned 1100 doesn’t surge, so I don’t think the dual plugs are necessary. Previous maintenance of the bike you choose is important since there are several items on both of these models that should be upgraded if they weren’t already.
Don’t shy away from well maintained high mileage bikes. I believe that BMWs run better when they are used regularly. Long spells of no use create more problems than putting on miles.
k7gle
Member
I have several years and about 60k miles on my 1100 (95K total on the clock). Never ridden an 1150, so my only comment on the difference is that I like the looks of the 1150 front fender better than the heavier-looking one on the 1100.
Looks like the lowest stock seat height on the 1150RT is about 3/4" higher than on the 1100, 31.5" vs 30.7" though a lower "special equipment" 1150 seat gives the same height settings as the 1100.
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/PDF Downloads/R1100RTSpec.pdf
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/PDF Downloads/R1150RTSpec.pdf
I'm 6" with a 34" inseam (so says the label on my Levi's, anyway) but I have a wonky balance sense due to inner ear damage so I need very solid, full-contact footing when stopped; I need the lowest seat setting to feel completely confident at stops BUT the seat-to-pegs distance on this bike feels short to me at any but the highest setting of 32.3". So: I lowered the pegs about 1.5", set the seat to low, and stop to stretch my legs every 200 miles or so. Which is about how often my HD buddies need to stop for fuel, so it all works out.
On the other hand, if I KNOW I'm going to be making the full 200 miles between stops I'll raise the seat to its highest position and pay careful attention at stops.
Where are you located? If in or near the Puget Sound area Rich at Rich's Custom Seats in Kingston (a short putt-and-ferry-ride from Seattle) works magic - transformed the 4x6 plank of a seat on my airhead to a 300-miler using just an electric carving knife and gel.
Looks like the lowest stock seat height on the 1150RT is about 3/4" higher than on the 1100, 31.5" vs 30.7" though a lower "special equipment" 1150 seat gives the same height settings as the 1100.
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/PDF Downloads/R1100RTSpec.pdf
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/PDF Downloads/R1150RTSpec.pdf
I'm 6" with a 34" inseam (so says the label on my Levi's, anyway) but I have a wonky balance sense due to inner ear damage so I need very solid, full-contact footing when stopped; I need the lowest seat setting to feel completely confident at stops BUT the seat-to-pegs distance on this bike feels short to me at any but the highest setting of 32.3". So: I lowered the pegs about 1.5", set the seat to low, and stop to stretch my legs every 200 miles or so. Which is about how often my HD buddies need to stop for fuel, so it all works out.
On the other hand, if I KNOW I'm going to be making the full 200 miles between stops I'll raise the seat to its highest position and pay careful attention at stops.
Where are you located? If in or near the Puget Sound area Rich at Rich's Custom Seats in Kingston (a short putt-and-ferry-ride from Seattle) works magic - transformed the 4x6 plank of a seat on my airhead to a 300-miler using just an electric carving knife and gel.
RPGR90s
Active member
1100 vs. 1150
I've had my '04 RT since new. Currently at 102k. Very few issues and I ride it about 120 miles/day.
I owned a '02 but a deer took it out. Only real issue with that bike was the unable to cure, surging.
Dual plugging appears to have solved the issue. Lots of opinions on '04's being the best Oilhead's. I can't disagree.
Likes:
6 speed, love the overdrive at freeway speeds
Looks, The aesthetics on the 1150's is just gorgeous. Beautiful from any angle
Built in fog lights
hydraulic clutch
My $.02
I've had my '04 RT since new. Currently at 102k. Very few issues and I ride it about 120 miles/day.
I owned a '02 but a deer took it out. Only real issue with that bike was the unable to cure, surging.
Dual plugging appears to have solved the issue. Lots of opinions on '04's being the best Oilhead's. I can't disagree.
Likes:
6 speed, love the overdrive at freeway speeds
Looks, The aesthetics on the 1150's is just gorgeous. Beautiful from any angle
Built in fog lights
hydraulic clutch
My $.02
tangoalpha
Active member
Wow! It appears you and I are identical height and weight. Not sure about your inseam, but mine is 30” and I ride an ‘02 R1150RT. It’s a great bike and I highly recommend it. It does have adjustable saddle height (3 settings) and I ride mine in the low setting. The factory seat is adequate for short rides, but it can become a pain in the butt...literally if you’re in the saddle for hours on end.
As others have mentioned the bike has features the R1100RT does not, including the servo assisted ABS brakes which I personally enjoy. So long as you maintain the system, they work exceptionally well. Stopping the bike requires very little effort. Takes getting used to at first, then you realize all that’s needed is a very light touch to stop the bike. You don’t need to grab a huge fistful of lever to quickly stop. It’s not needed and In fact, if you grab too much, you’ll likely stop in a hurry, but perhaps much faster than intended as you go flying over the handlebars. [emoji50]
The 6 speed is a definite plus and it saves on fuel. It’s ideal for highway speeds...60mph+.
Styling...OMG! I love the styling of this bike. Sometimes after a long ride I’ll park it in my garage, relax in my chair while enjoying a post ride beer and just stare at the bike, admiring its elegant and sexy styling. Few bikes are as good looking in my opinion.
Feel free to IM me if you have other questions about the RT.
In the meantime, here’s a photo of mine to salivate over.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Hi Jim, I've had a K100LT, an R1100RT, an R1150RS, and am now on my R1150RT, a 2004, so I know exactly what you're asking about.
They are all great bikes, but of the bunch, I love my 1150RT the best and intend to keep it 'til it dies (or I win the lottery).
Yes it has the whizzy brakes, but they work GREAT. So the maintenance on them is a little more tedious, it's a fair tradeoff.
First gear on the 1150 is a little bit taller than the 1100's was (which I think was a huge mistake on the factory's part), but when I opened up the clutch at 80K miles for a spline lube, the friction plate was still in spec. If I'm in 6th, I'm speeding... but comfortably.
Earlier 1100s had transmission issues; if it shifts oddly between 2nd and 3rd, either up or down, walk away or get the price dropped by several hundred at least.
You'll likely need a seat (or reshape & restuff) regardless. If the shocks are still factory, count on replacing them with some aftermarket quality stuff, it'll make a Huge difference. Look for dinged wheels - they'll tell you how often the last guy tried to go over rocks or curbs.
Either one will surge if it is not tuned up with huge amounts of anal retention in regards to the valve settings and throttle body sync.
The stick coils of the dual-plug bikes (1150 etc.) are a known failure point; they've gotten better over the years (I think they're on the 3rd iteration now?) but are still not perfected.
Hope this helps!
They are all great bikes, but of the bunch, I love my 1150RT the best and intend to keep it 'til it dies (or I win the lottery).
Yes it has the whizzy brakes, but they work GREAT. So the maintenance on them is a little more tedious, it's a fair tradeoff.
First gear on the 1150 is a little bit taller than the 1100's was (which I think was a huge mistake on the factory's part), but when I opened up the clutch at 80K miles for a spline lube, the friction plate was still in spec. If I'm in 6th, I'm speeding... but comfortably.
Earlier 1100s had transmission issues; if it shifts oddly between 2nd and 3rd, either up or down, walk away or get the price dropped by several hundred at least.
You'll likely need a seat (or reshape & restuff) regardless. If the shocks are still factory, count on replacing them with some aftermarket quality stuff, it'll make a Huge difference. Look for dinged wheels - they'll tell you how often the last guy tried to go over rocks or curbs.
Either one will surge if it is not tuned up with huge amounts of anal retention in regards to the valve settings and throttle body sync.
The stick coils of the dual-plug bikes (1150 etc.) are a known failure point; they've gotten better over the years (I think they're on the 3rd iteration now?) but are still not perfected.
Hope this helps!
patiodadio
Motorcyclist
1150 
R1100 vs. R1150
I test rode a 2002 R1150RT yesterday and definitely didn't like the Linked brakes. Way to touchy for my liking. Is the 2004 and 2002 the same braking system? Does the 95 - 2001 model NOT have a linked brake? Are there any significant differences from the early 95 to late 2001 models? Was ABS standard on the 95 - 2001? I seen some specs that say ABS standard, some say No ABS available? Thanks
I test rode a 2002 R1150RT yesterday and definitely didn't like the Linked brakes. Way to touchy for my liking. Is the 2004 and 2002 the same braking system? Does the 95 - 2001 model NOT have a linked brake? Are there any significant differences from the early 95 to late 2001 models? Was ABS standard on the 95 - 2001? I seen some specs that say ABS standard, some say No ABS available? Thanks
m_stock10506
Well-known member
I believe all of the R1100RT came with ABS standard. The R1100RT ABS was the ABS2 version. No linking, easy to bleed. Some of the other R1100 models might have had ABS as an option - not sure. If the R1100RT says no ABS, it was probably removed.
R1100RT vs R1150RT
How do you like the National Cycle V Stream windshield???? Here is a really good article I found on the R1100RT strengths and weaknesses. https://armchairbiker.com/bmw-r1100rt-review-buying-advice/
Sorry I couldn't figure out how to insert a link.
How do you like the National Cycle V Stream windshield???? Here is a really good article I found on the R1100RT strengths and weaknesses. https://armchairbiker.com/bmw-r1100rt-review-buying-advice/
Sorry I couldn't figure out how to insert a link.
tangoalpha
Active member
If you don’t like the whizzy brakes I understand. They’re not for everyone, but frankly I think like anything else it’s something that you eventually get used to. I live in an area with a lot of hills and I can tell you those brakes sure do come in handy when stopped on a hill.
[QUOTE
Personally I like my Vstream much better than the factory windshield. It doesn’t generate turbulence, it’s very well made and it looks good.
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the 2004 does have whizzy brakes
but it also has the better headlight/fog lights, dual spark and that wonderful 6 speed tranny. The 1100 is a wonderful machine, but IIHO isn't as nice on the highway (but does have a slightly bigger gas tank).
sdc
oh, and I'm 5'5" with a 30" inseam (and slightly more than your 165lbs
)
but it also has the better headlight/fog lights, dual spark and that wonderful 6 speed tranny. The 1100 is a wonderful machine, but IIHO isn't as nice on the highway (but does have a slightly bigger gas tank).
sdc
oh, and I'm 5'5" with a 30" inseam (and slightly more than your 165lbs
)
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Yes. Not all 1150 models had integrated (whizzy) brakes but ALL the 1150 RT models did.
I hate them... but those who own these bikes seem to get used to them and eventually like them. I find them downright dangerous in low speed situations like parking lots when the bars can be turned a lot and then suddenly you need brakes. Normally I would only use the rear brake but unless you disable the ABS ahead of time you get braking on both wheels and we all know what happens when you grab some front brake while turning sharp at slow speeds don't we?
Another thing about 1100 vs 1150. 1100 has a 5 speed gear box with an input spline that FULLY engages the clutch splines. The 1150 has a 6 speed gear box that owners love until the splines get stripped because the input shaft does not fully engage the clutch.
IMO this was a fatal design flaw by either Getrag or BMW or BOTH. To this day, "there is no problem" remains the mantra at BMW corporate becuase the recall cost would be enormous. There is a longer reach clutch plate hub available to help this problem at Beemer Boneyard but on most bikes the damage is already done in the first 40K.
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