Occational clutch "clunk"???

[beeryboats]

It's my first BMW ( '01 R11RT), so evey noise or sensation is new and strange. Sometimes when I release the clutch, which I understand is a dry plate, I feel a "clunk" sensation in the pegs. I'm still getting used the bike, so I'm not riding as smoothly as I should be. But I am trying! I don't want to hurt my baby! I hate to admit this, but it's usually when I'm going slow, fighting traffic in a turn, trying to keep my balance and not fall over. Maybe I'm dumping the clutch? I've read not to ride the clutch on these bikes. I just hope it's not the pressure plate hanging up.
Jay

 

[ANDYVH]

The "clunk" you are hearing is probably just all the slack in the driveline being taken up when you release the clutch. Welcome to ownership of a BMW and all its normal idiosyncrasis. BMW's of your vintage and older are not known for graceful and quiet shifting. More like, "YOU VILL SHIFT NOW UND ENJOY ZHA NOISE!!"

Especially when you're going slow and trying to manage slow speed on and off the clutch in traffic. Each time you pull the clutch in and coast the tranny internals slow or stop spinning. Then you ease the clutch out and they all have their little gaps/freeplay they have to use up before the power actually gets to the rear wheel. Probably just normal for your bike.

Yes, oilheads use a dry single plate clutch. Fanning or slipping the clutch is no big deal, unless you do a LOT of it on every ride. I wouldn't worry too much about it. My 94 R1100RS does the same thing if I'm in slow stop & go traffic. I've got 125,000 miles on mine and it has always made those noises at really slow speeds.

 

[YELLOW_S]

BMW are not known for there wonderful transmissions. They always make a "clunk" noise.

The R1100RT has a horriable transmission. Its weird, the R1100S had a lot better transmission than the R1100RT, but BMW didn't put it in the R1100RT for some reason. On the R1100RT you'll find yourself between gears a lot. Coming up on a corner. Down-shirt. than bam.... no power. Pull the clutch and just cruise around the corner. Pop it back into gear (you'll hear a lot of grinding, and stuff) and keep going. Hopfully it wont happen in the next turn.

Now for the R1100S. Its clunks all the time. But you don't fine yourself between gears. The only problem you have is when you are moving, and down shirt from 2nd to first. You can't do it. Unless you slam of it... and thats not the smartest thing. On a R11S you can never make it from 2nd to 1st, while moving (at least on my bike). I have to stop completely and move back and forth to do it. Or go back to 2nd gear.

 

[bikerfish1100]

Now for the R1100S. Its clunks all the time. But you don't fine yourself between gears. The only problem you have is when you are moving, and down shirt from 2nd to first. You can't do it. Unless you slam of it... and thats not the smartest thing. On a R11S you can never make it from 2nd to 1st, while moving (at least on my bike). I have to stop completely and move back and forth to do it. Or go back to 2nd gear.

clunks all the time? have you tried upshifting at 5,000 and above? should be like buttah. not Japanese or Italian buttah, but pretty dang smooth. No clunk required. As much as many riders protest that "it's the bike, it's the bike"... it really is how the rider operates the bike that makes the difference in this regard.

 

[ANDYVH]

I'm with bikerfish on this. One thing about older BMWs (meaning any of those before the new six speeds) is that you have to learn to shift on their terms, no other way around it. Since this is your1st BMW means you're used to either crisp/light Jap bike shifting, or Harley relaxed low rpms/shifting. Learn to do the following and you have fewer issues:
1. Get the rpms up higher, like shifting at 4000 or 5000 rpm. It shifts better up there. An alternative for 1st or 2nd gear is to short shift below 2500 rpm.
2. Preload the shift lever on up shifts. When you prepare to shift get your boot under the shifter and lift until you take up the travel.
3. You only need maybe 1/3 of the clutch lever travel for shifts. More clutch action makes for slower shifts and more jerky reaction, because if you use full clutch lever action the drivetrain has a chance to slow slighty and relax. Then you have to "take up the slack" again with the clutch re-engagement.
4. Learn to time your "quick" throttle chop exactly with the motion of the clutch lever/shift lever. These trannys like quick/firm/crisp actions, not wimpy/sloppy. This is especially true on downshifts, but 2nd and 1st downshifts will always be trickier just because of the lower ratios and drivetrain play.
5. Don't wait until after the shift is completed and the clutch released to get on the throttle. Do it all in one motion and roll it on. Each complete shift is the time of a finger snap at the longest from initiation to completion.
6. Proper clutch adjustment makes a BIG difference. You wouldn't think it matters but it does. 12mm gap between the adjuster barrel and locknut, 7mm freeplay at the lever (measured at the lever pivot point, lever edge to pivot mount edge).

I've found by training myself to do this my shifting is much improved with very few missed shifts (especially 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd) and the bike responds with much better and smoother acceleration. If you get practiced and good at this you'll find you can also make good shifts at the more common 3000 to 4000 rpm range.

A few things I've also done. Keep fresh fuild in the tranny. I also added NAPA Limited Slip Differential Friction Modifier to my tranny fluid. Seems to have helped as I have much fewer missed shifts and no trouble getting into first or finding neutral. In fact on my bike finding neutral is a very light touch, even without the clutch. My tranny has about 66k on it.

 

[beeryboats]

Thanks all! Yes, it has been a steep learning curve from Harley to BMW. Don't sell the BMW trans short. It's much easier than the HD Sportster. There is a reason why Harley riders leave the bike in neutral at lights and then slam their foot down on the shifter to get in first gear.

What I'm experiencing is usually in first gear only, just rolling into an intersection from a stop, having to pull the clutch back in and slow down, then quickly letting it out and accelerating around the car in front of you turning left. I'm sure you've all been there. It must be all the gear lash loading up.

I love this bike! I've never rode to work on the HD in November. The RT is awesome at keeping me warm. The right gear helps, but I didn't go off the deep end on clothes. On the helmet I did go deep ! But that's another story!
Jay

 

[geobeemer]

Clutch Cable grease??

Don't intend to steal this thread but I read that BMW #10 grease is needed on the ends of the Clutch cables. Is there an equivalent grease or does it have to be whatever BMW # 10 is?

Just thought I would ask since we were talking Clutch cables.

I'm with bikerfish on this. One thing about older BMWs (meaning any of those before the new six speeds) is that you have to learn to shift on their terms, no other way around it. Since this is your1st BMW means you're used to either crisp/light Jap bike shifting, or Harley relaxed low rpms/shifting. Learn to do the following and you have fewer issues:
1. Get the rpms up higher, like shifting at 4000 or 5000 rpm. It shifts better up there. An alternative for 1st or 2nd gear is to short shift below 2500 rpm.
2. Preload the shift lever on up shifts. When you prepare to shift get your boot under the shifter and lift until you take up the travel.
3. You only need maybe 1/3 of the clutch lever travel for shifts. More clutch action makes for slower shifts and more jerky reaction, because if you use full clutch lever action the drivetrain has a chance to slow slighty and relax. Then you have to "take up the slack" again with the clutch re-engagement.
4. Learn to time your "quick" throttle chop exactly with the motion of the clutch lever/shift lever. These trannys like quick/firm/crisp actions, not wimpy/sloppy. This is especially true on downshifts, but 2nd and 1st downshifts will always be trickier just because of the lower ratios and drivetrain play.
5. Don't wait until after the shift is completed and the clutch released to get on the throttle. Do it all in one motion and roll it on. Each complete shift is the time of a finger snap at the longest from initiation to completion.
6. Proper clutch adjustment makes a BIG difference. You wouldn't think it matters but it does. 12mm gap between the adjuster barrel and locknut, 7mm freeplay at the lever (measured at the lever pivot point, lever edge to pivot mount edge).

I've found by training myself to do this my shifting is much improved with very few missed shifts (especially 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd) and the bike responds with much better and smoother acceleration. If you get practiced and good at this you'll find you can also make good shifts at the more common 3000 to 4000 rpm range.

A few things I've also done. Keep fresh fuild in the tranny. I also added NAPA Limited Slip Differential Friction Modifier to my tranny fluid. Seems to have helped as I have much fewer missed shifts and no trouble getting into first or finding neutral. In fact on my bike finding neutral is a very light touch, even without the clutch. My tranny has about 66k on it.

 

[godfather]

+1 what Andy VH said about the shifting process. I had to learn the "RIGHT" way to shift the RT after Jap. bikes since 66'...now all is right with the shifting world. Practice and it will become second nature.
As far as the grease question, I use Phil Wood waterproof bicycle grease.

 

[ARM74]

Clutch Grease

Don't intend to steal this thread but I read that BMW #10 grease is needed on the ends of the Clutch cables. Is there an equivalent grease or does it have to be whatever BMW # 10 is?

Just thought I would ask since we were talking Clutch cables.

I have an old BMWON tech article about servicing clutch cables and the author (not Paul Glaves, but the guy before Paul) recommended BMW#10 or white lithium grease. White grease can be purchassed at any auto parts store. Worked well for me.

 

[ARM74]

Let me clarify my post from above. I am refering to clutch CABLE grease, not clutch plate/spline grease. I realize the title of the above post may cause some trouble. Again, clutch CABLE grease.

 

[ANDYVH]

Yup, for the clutch CABLE good old white lithium grease works great.

But, for the clutch splines I use the recommended BMW grease, which used to be the red sticky Staburag, but is now BMW Microlube GL261. Which, on the older oilheads brings up the issue of greased clutch splines relative to clutch action.
Well lubed clutch hub splines makes for much easier clutch action and more accurate shifting.