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Norway. Yes, way… or no way?


look out!!!
Here, in a little while, I might do a short report about riding in Norway. Still editing pics and, um, have very little oBMWc.

For now, anyone considering a visit, watching this video is highly recommended. Incredible visuals, great message that you’re well-advised to consider.

Go full screen, the imagery is well worth it.

Ok, onward with my random documentation... the map and video is from about 1/3rd way through my ride. The basic story is that before the tunnel there was the old road.

Note, on this ride I was exceptionally lazy about recording video... it may be the only one I post.


Always look closely at the map, the E16 tunnel is almost 25km long, the old road over it is a whole lot funner to ride.

In researching my ride through Norway, I watched a lot of videos, searched a lot of web pages and maps... and amazingly there was one piece of information totally lacking: no mentioned how many tunnels there are in Norway.

This country just has to rank among the top when it comes to number of tunnels. And the average length. Riding into one is like riding into an icebox... at least in June, which is the earliest I'd recommend visiting Norway to ride. Note that, by now in July, most of this snow and ice have now melted.

According to ChatGTP: Norway is known for having a significant number of tunnels relative to its population and geographical size. The rugged and mountainous terrain of Norway has made the construction of tunnels a practical solution to improve transportation and connectivity across the country.

Norway has an extensive network of tunnels, both for roads and railways. Some of the most notable tunnel projects in Norway include the Laerdal Tunnel, which is the world's longest road tunnel, stretching over 24.5 kilometers (about 15.2 miles). Another significant tunnel is the Eiksund Tunnel, which is the world's deepest undersea tunnel, reaching a depth of about 287 meters (942 feet) below sea level.

Due to Norway's challenging topography, tunnels have played a crucial role in connecting remote regions, enhancing transportation efficiency, and making travel safer and more reliable.

Bjorgvegen Road goes over the Laerdal tunnel, adding an hour to one's ride but it was so great that I rode it twice: on the way up, and the way down.

The lesson here is, when you come upon a tunnel, zoom the GPS way in... it's very likely that the old road still exists, and for sure, it is a way better ride.


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Zoom way in on the GPS... way in

There are not many main roads in Norway, and I'm thinking that 99% are two-lane. So, cars, RVs, semi's, farm tractors... they all use the same road. There are no shortcuts and the max speed limit almost always 80kph (50mph), with major fines for speeding. And with all the fjords and ferries, you can't get anywhere fast. Rule of thumb is to double the time that Google says it takes to get there. The idea is to relax, slow down and ride at Norway pace.

Butt... once you' reach your destination, if you zoom way in on your GPS you will find that many fjords and rivers feature small roads, paved and dirt, that go for long ways, often to dead ends, with no traffic.

Enjoy this video of the road that runs along the sides of the cliffs along the Flåmselvi river. This is actually a major tourist spot, and most tourists take the train, which is often right next to the road.

This'll be the last video, I really didn't shoot much and was struggling with technical issues. Hope you like it
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4800km, 3000 miles

The ride started in Kristiansand, went north, then south, ending in Bergen. Ferries from/to Hirtshals, Denmark and autobahn from there from/to Heidelberg... detouring to Berlin on the return route to attend Motorrad Days.

Zoom in, there are some sweet roads on this ride!

And no, I did not want to ride to Nordkapp... I am not one of those gotta-ride-to-the-end-of-the-road types! :ha

<iframe src="https://ridewithgps.com/embeds?type=route&id=43894485" style="width: 1px; min-width: 100%; height: 550px; border: none;" scrolling="no"></iframe>

Below is the road north, to the Lofoten Peninsula.

The view from our cabin, 2:30 am. The Lofoten Peninsula is home to some of the world's most beautiful islands. Had somewhat crappy weather luck there (some rain, windy and cold), which meant I enjoyed the view and the hot chocolate in the cabin instead of riding the rest of the peninsula... bummer!




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The ferries & toll roads in Norway for motorcycles

There is a lot of on-line reference for cars regarding this, however, almost nothing about motorcycles. And... in true Internet fashion, one has to read 50 pages of text on 17 different web sites, and you're still not exactly sure how it will go.


  • To arrange for payment to ride ferries, register with either FerryPay or AutoPass*
  • It's a real pita if you have to pay for each ferry ride, these apps automate the process
  • Go to the front of the line of cars/RV/trucks line waiting to board, and board first
  • Be sure to get in the right line, often times different ferries will go to multiple locations from one dock
  • Do and go exactly what the ferry handlers say
  • Always use your sidetand for stability
  • You only strap down and chock the rear wheel on longer open-water passages, each ferry supplies the straps
  • Ride carefully, often-times the ramps are slippery when wet
  • Try to get off the ferry first if at all possible, otherwise you'll be passing people for the next 20kms
As you board, a camera records your license plate and automatically charges your credit card.** If that doesn't work, one of the ferry people will approach you and then charge your card.


  • Motorcycles do not pay tolls on toll roads

* AutoPass is intended for cars, trucks, RVs and busses, it's not moto-friendly. However, the ferry companies seem much more aligned with AutoPass. Registration involves a pre-payment and deducts the cost of each ride. You can't download their app until you're in Norway. otoh, FerryPay can be arranged online prior to arrival in Norway. Interestingly, I could register my USA license tag number and credit card, but there was no option for choosing USA as a country. Further, USA license tag numbers are too small for the camera to read.

** If the boarding camera can't read your license tag, you get a visit from the ferry guy, who points his smartphone at your plate and then looks for "USA" in the list of countries. It's not there, so the ferry guy says "Well, I can't charge you, have a nice day!" Unless Norway sends me a bill someday, I rode all the ferries for free. Guess they don't get many people visiting with US plates!




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