New member, new owner questions

[richardak]

Just recently purchased a "new to me" 1983 R100RT with 56k miles. What should be done since riding season probably is still months away? (0 F and snow now) It starts and idles smoothly but there was no opportunity to take it for a test ride. Change oil in the engine, trans, final drive, what else? Now or wait until spring? After searching these forums, some suggested replacing the brake fluid annually. Does this really need to be done? Should the fuel tank be kept full or empty? Are there things I should be looking for with this model?

So far, all I've done is check fluid levels (all fine) and valve adjustment (within specs). Picked up a trickle charger.

Lots of questions...

 

[Bill Burke]

Welcome aboard. Here's a thread you might enjoy.

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?p=217974#post217974

And here are some links to some useful sites:
http://www.airheads.org/
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/index.html
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/manual.html

 

[26667]

welcome

besides all the great winter storage advice etc you'll get here, there are loads of BMW books out there. Don't forget Airheads' and Snowbum's sites. Loads of info.

Come Sping, get to some rallyes, and aim at The national in july.

 

[sumran]

Welcome

Glad to have you here. It is a great group and you will find many helpful folks. Sounds like you have a great bike. Good fluid levels and valve adjustments point to one that was properly cared for. From what I have read '83 & '84 are among the best of the airheads. Post pictures if you get a chance.

I feel a little bad for you. I was going to tell you to get out for a ride on a warm weekend until I noticed where you are located. I am sure it is beautiful there, and I have a visit on my lifetime to-do list. But it is probably a long wait for the first ride.

Are the other airhead owners in your area? I expect so. If you can get connected with them it will be very helpful to you and it will make the process more enjoyable. The old fluids can be informative to an experienced airhead mechanic, so if you can have them along when you change them out, it will give you some good info.

The list Bill gave in the referenced thread is very good. I would check brakes, bearings and driveline first. That way you know you are safe and don't have to worry about anything serious as you learn the noises of your new machine.

The brake fluid should be changed completely every year from what I have read. It breaks down in the system and becomes less effective and gums up components. It is easy to do and not worth the risk of stretching it. Fluid type is important. I understand that DOT 5 causes problems in our systems. DOT 3 or 4 is fine.

I have heard various opinions about leaving the fuel system dry or adding Stabil or another fuel stabilizer. Part of that may depend on how often you want to hear it run as you wait for spring!

If you have maintenance records from the previous owners, they will be very helpful. Reconstructing my bike's service history has made service decisions and some diagnostics much easier.

Best of luck. Hope we will see you here often, at least until spring .

 

[bikerfish1100]

I have heard various opinions about leaving the fuel system dry or adding Stabil or another fuel stabilizer. Part of that may depend on how often you want to hear it run as you wait for spring!

QUOTE]

in a word- DON'T. starting it only adds condensation to the insides of the motor, never a good thing. it's unavoidable, as condensation is a by-product of combustion. once the engine gets hot enough it burns that water vapor off, but that takes about 10-20 minutes of operation- not something to do just to "hear it run." Ever look at the exit end of an exhaust system, car or bike, after it first starts up? that "drip drip drip" of water is from the engine, it's what rots out your exhaust system.
keep the battery charged with a Battery Tender. if you don't know that your fluids were recently changed it's better to do them now rather than waiting for spring, as acids (another by-product of combustion) in the engine oil can attack the bearing surfaces, making it wiser to get rid of them before the bike sits all winter.
have fun, and welcome to the club.

 

[beeryboats]

I'm in the same situation with my new to me Oilhead. Although I was lucky enough to put a thousand miles miles on it before winter. I did the oil change and final drive change, replaced the plugs, but I still need to change the brake fluid and check the valve clearance. Yuck. Not looking forward to those two items!

What was posted about not running the bike in the winter is exactly what I used to do with my Sportster. Oops! I won't do that with the beemer I guess.

 

[richardak]

Thank you for the responses. I guess I will start replacing the fluids including the brake fluid. The previous owner had a front master cylinder part in the top case so maybe it needed changed anyway.

 

[sumran]

in a word- DON'T...

Thanks for the info. My statement was meant in jest but could have caused harm. Those of us that live in Florida don't have to fight with Stabil .

Just don't ask about summer heat or rides through the mountains.

 

[535IS]

in a word- DON'T. starting it only adds condensation to the insides of the motor, never a good thing. it's unavoidable, as condensation is a by-product of combustion. once the engine gets hot enough it burns that water vapor off, but that takes about 10-20 minutes of operation- not something to do just to "hear it run." Ever look at the exit end of an exhaust system, car or bike, after it first starts up? that "drip drip drip" of water is from the engine, it's what rots out your exhaust system.

While you're right in principle, you're far off in application. In order to get the exhaust system up to a temperature that will stave off condensation, you simply need to get the entire length of it above the ambient dew point. That might be as much as 10 minutes; highly unlikely to be much more. There's virtually no way there would be any parts in the engine proper that would be that cool after even 5 minutes.

 

[ggfossen]

Richard,

One thing you may consider is replacing the clutch and throttle cables. Also, they shouldn't be lubed, I think. I think most of them are lined with a teflon type stuff, and oil is not good for it.

I say this because the clutch cable broke on my '83 R80RT last winter in traffic. The bike only has about 27000, but the speedo is malfunctioning, so it says differently. I also had recently replaced the throttle cables. It's much easier to replace them at home than to ride home without them in traffic.

The busted cable did, by the way, prompt me to order a new 2007 RT, a grand bike, but I still have the '83, and will get to it....soon.

Gary

 

[bikerfish1100]

While you're right in principle, you're far off in application. In order to get the exhaust system up to a temperature that will stave off condensation, you simply need to get the entire length of it above the ambient dew point. That might be as much as 10 minutes; highly unlikely to be much more. There's virtually no way there would be any parts in the engine proper that would be that cool after even 5 minutes.

i'll give you that i may be wrong in time factor involved, but i am more than just right in principle. i am also right in my recommendation that starting the engine to listen to it is not a good idea, nor is it a good idea to start it to charge the battery, nor too keep the oil circulted, nor for any of the other reasons that people might offer for starting their bike during the winter that does not involve taking the bike for a ride.
do you actually think otherwise?

 

[ggfossen]

Biker,

I understand from where you are coming, but I think the secret is in how long the particular piece of machinery runs is the issue. It is recommended that parked RVs be started periodically. From my very young days, it has always been recommended with all equipment. From experience, too much down time is bad.

The secret is, I think, in bringing everything to operating temps when started. That includes exhaust, oil, and cooling liquids....all liquids.

It is also good to run through the gears a bit, if possible. And wiggle the steering head bearings.

I have no scientific knowledge with which to back this, but this is how I see it???

And not to be forgotten, not a good idea in a closed garage. It might not work in Fairbanks in the winter, but it works well in Oregon.

Gary

 

[ggfossen]

Biker,

Something else occurred to me. You are absolutely correct that cars, in cold climes, drip water from the exhaust after start-up. Cars do, though, have a very long exhaust system, and it is constantly being cooled as the car runs down the highway. It would/does take much longer for that exhaust to heat than one on a bike.

Also, I try to run up my little Freightliner (RV puller) about every week or two when it isn't driven. It I don't, with all the electronic gadgetry, even those batteries start to fade. When I start it, I let it run until warm all the way around, and at a slightly increased idle to assure the alternator is making juice.

This is the first year that it has been a issue with the truck. The new RT is often to town even when cold. Much less fuel burn. The truck sits.

Gary

 

[bikerfish1100]

Gary-
i can see where you're coming from, especially if you're talking about months and months of down time. i've never seen a need or value in starting a bike during a winter hibernation- just do a fluids change beforehand, maybe a drink of Sta-bil on top of a fully loaded gas tank, a Battery Tender to keep it warm, a nice safe bed to sleep in- and all is good in the spring.

 

[535IS]

i'll give you that i may be wrong in time factor involved, but i am more than just right in principle. i am also right in my recommendation that starting the engine to listen to it is not a good idea, nor is it a good idea to start it to charge the battery, nor too keep the oil circulated, nor for any of the other reasons that people might offer for starting their bike during the winter that does not involve taking the bike for a ride.
do you actually think otherwise?

Well, lessee ... no, yes, no, and yes, in that order.

Of course it's a good idea to hear an Airhead run in the middle of the winter! Otherwise, we might just do crrrraaaaazy things up here!

Yes, it does not help the battery, but IMO, some occasional oil circulation is never a bad thing. I think we agree that it needs to be gotten all the way warm to prevent other Bad Things?® from happening. That said, I will probably not fire mine up in the barn until the salt is gone.

 

[bikerfish1100]

ah, NaCl, that nasty villain! back east in southern New England, they used it all the time, whether it was a light dusting of snow, or a full-on blizzard. hated what it did to wheels and engine cases, so I'd just put the baby to sleep once the first storm rolled in. out here in the western wilds, where chain laws rule, salt is never used. plows are often not used either,

but that's another issue. so for me, if i can get out my driveway and down the residential side streets to a main road, i can usually ride on those in-between days. you know, the days in-between storms, when all melts down and the temps hit 50 or 60 in the sunny afternoon.
for those "other days", a good microbrew

relieves much of the pain.

 

[ISAMEMON]

yes, I too need to start the old bike up in mid winter, I tell myself it si to keep things lubricated, but its really for me, to hear the bike run, and I guess to keep me thinkin of spring