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Need Info on PCV, Pulse Air, Etc.

markaz

New member
Newbie here. Just got an 83 R100RS from my brother in Colorado. It appears that the pulse air system has been removed. Unfortunately, I have to have it emissions inspected/tested before I can register it in AZ so it looks like I need to put the pulse air stuff back on (they apparently look for it). I got all the bits from a guy on Ebay and I think I see how it all goes in. However, it looks like the PCV system has been modified, at least it looks different from the diagram in Clymer's and in the fiche I've seen at various places. Here's what it looks like under the air filter (a K&N that I plan to replace shortly).

th_IMG_1045.jpg


The big hose that comes in thru the front of the box, which I assume comes from the PCV valve on top of the engine, is routed out thru the hole that is for one of the pulse air valves. It goes down to what looks like a canister that's mounted to the cross member in front of the rear wheel. I can't find any mention of this canister anywhere. Here's what it looks like:

th_IMG_1044.jpg


It's attached to the cross member with zip ties. There's a smaller hose that runs from the canister back up to the air filter box thru a hole in rear of the box (the smaller brown hose on the lower right in the filter box pic) and connects to a tee and into each of the air intake horns. I expected to find the big hose from the PCV valve going to the tee and into the intake horns. Anyone know what that canister is and why it's there? Those hoses are using holes that I need for the PAS so I guess I'll have to put it back to the way it shows in the diagrams and remove that canister. Or is there something I don't know about?

Any info/advice/opinions will be welcomed.

Thanks... Mark
 
I can't beleive they do emission testing on a 29 year old motorcycle, the statistics for emissions were not even posted then?

Check your facts before you put all that crap back on.

Just sayin!:wave
 
+1 on Darryl's comments -- check before you go to the effort.

On the canister, a prior owner's makeshift oil vapor condensation can -- BMW definitely never did something like this. The normal crankcase breather arrangement is hose out of the breather valve housing on top of the block (right rear, next to the rear end of the starter), then into the airbox to a T, then directly into both carb intakes (the intake hose ends were suspended in the center of each opening by light plastic legs in the center of the intakes). Early airheads dumped the crankcase fumes only into the right intake; later used the T to route fumes into both.
 
The other thing is: If you have an oil catch canister the oil is being trapped in the canister not being reburnt in the exhaust so you will have cleaner emissions that one with the reburnt oil mist.
 
I can't beleive they do emission testing on a 29 year old motorcycle, the statistics for emissions were not even posted then?

Check your facts before you put all that crap back on.

Just sayin!:wave

agree
hard to imagine that they would even know what to look for.
What does it cost to fail an inspection and re-try
sure that smoney you would rather not spend, but are they just looking for whats installed, or does it have to passs a sniffer test at exsaust pipe.
It may or may not pass a sniffer test even wiht all the junk installed.

If they are really looking and dont know its function, then hook it up, make it look right, and then yank it off as soon as yoru done. big depbate on how much damage they can do
if it needs to be ther eand look right, and needs to be ther eoften for inspections through the years, you can plug em with marbles which makes em non functional but look right.

around here, they dont know whats supposed to be on a bike that old, and I even have running lights in my turnsignals. which makes them non legal running lights ( since they are amber and not red) Again, around here , they have no clue on that old of a bike
 
Thanks for the info, guys. I suspected that canister was a 'field modification'. If it's a vapor condenser unit, I'd think it would eventually fill up with oil since I don't see any drain on it. I'll have to take it off & see what's in it. My brother owned the bike for about 10 years but he's the kind of guy who doesn't even read owners manuals. He only put about 2000 miles on it (it has about 45k total). He did change the oil a couple times, tho.

As silly as it seems, AZ does indeed emissions test all vehicles made since 1967...anything that's road-licensed, at least in Maricopa County (essentially the Phoenix metro area). For my bike, they do a sniffer test at idle and a visual check for 'tampering'. It costs about $30. My temptation is to just install the pipes into the exhaust ports (plugged, of course) since that's all that's visible externally and see what happens. I don't know if it will pass the sniffer test either, tho...I'll have to lean it way down before I go. I went thru this all with my 1968 BMW 1600 several years ago...I learned how to tune it before the test so it would pass. A huge PITA but hard to get around unless you can register your vehicle in another county. They have applied to the EPA for a waiver that would exempt some vehicles including old motorcycles but it has not been granted yet, last I checked.
 
The emission test is $19. It's an idle only test for CO and HC. The "look" at the vehicle but you can bet the employees there won't know what's stock or not. They really are looking at four wheel vehicles emission equip. Cat's, air pumps, etc.
You should easily pass the test. Take the bike in when the temps are cool so it idles properly.
You do get a free retest if you fail. You may want to go see Dave in Mesa who runs a very friendly Airhead shop!
 
Thanks for the info. I was hoping someone from AZ would chime in with some real experience. I'm going by what the AZDEQ web site says but I know that the real world is often different. I should probably just take it in as is and see what happens. I just hate to deal with it.

Where is Dave in Mesa? PM me if you'd prefer.
 
Thanks. Unfortunately I won't be able to make it for that one but I hope to be able to make it to some others.

Oops...just noticed that was in March. :D
 
Just an update on this...

I took the bike in for the emissions test this afternoon. Unfortunately it did not pass. It did fine on the HC...374 ppm vs 1800 ppm max...but failed the CO...6.47% vs 5.5 max. This is at idle. Bummer. I suspect the idle mixture just needs tweaking. It's really hard to adjust without a CO meter. I guess I'll have to take it to someone who can actually measure it. Or hope the EPA waiver comes thru soon.

It did pass the equipment inspection, tho, which was really the reason for this thread. All they looked at was the gas cap...it has to have one. So I guess I won't be re-installing the PAS after all. Oh well...
 
Just an update on this...

I took the bike in for the emissions test this afternoon. Unfortunately it did not pass. It did fine on the HC...374 ppm vs 1800 ppm max...but failed the CO...6.47% vs 5.5 max. This is at idle. Bummer. I suspect the idle mixture just needs tweaking. It's really hard to adjust without a CO meter. I guess I'll have to take it to someone who can actually measure it. Or hope the EPA waiver comes thru soon.

It did pass the equipment inspection, tho, which was really the reason for this thread. All they looked at was the gas cap...it has to have one. So I guess I won't be re-installing the PAS after all. Oh well...

If you are close on emissions make sure that your air filter is new/newish, that the enricher/choke circuit is correctly assembled and fully ÔÇ£offÔÇØ, your float levels are set correctly, the carbs are in balance with the ÔÇ£bestÔÇØ idle mixture screw setting on each carb (CO meter not necessary, easily done by paying attention to the quality of the engine as you adjust from the stock starting point, or using something like a Colortune), and the timing is spot on. Make sure the bike is thoroughly warm, at least 10 miles of running, before testing. If you are getting a failure after all this, then, just for the test, consider leaning out the idle mixture using the idle mixture screw, and/or retarding the ignition by a few degrees.
 
EGR- CO? No.

The CO test failure and EGR are probably not related. EGR reduces NOx, mainly by cooling down the combustion process. CO is an indication of how much fuel you are burning.

As a few above said, run it lean, but also run it really slow if you can get away with it. Make sure everything is nice and hot before they run the test. If you wait and they test it warm/cold instead of hot....well don't let them. Come to think of it, what altitude (Colorado) was that thing tuned for. You are probably close to sea level now. High altitude tuning would generally be richer, and possibly higher rpm.

Good luck with your local regulations. Seems like a tricky one, but you should be able to manage. Charcoal filter? :)

HH
 
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Thanks for all the replies, guys. All helpful info.

I talked to Dave in Mesa this morning. He seems to think it won't be a big deal to get it tweaked to pass. I'm taking it to his place tomorrow afternoon and (hopefully) over to the testing station afterwards. I'm too much of a noob with the bike to think I can get it set properly. Hopefully once it's done by someone who knows what he's doing it'll be easier next time (and I'll know the bike better). I'll post back with the results tomorrow.
 
I'm too much of a noob with the bike to think I can get it set properly. Hopefully once it's done by someone who knows what he's doing it'll be easier next time (and I'll know the bike better). I'll post back with the results tomorrow.

No need to apologize for knowing your limits. While things like this seem easy to those who have been there, I always think it's better to pay someone to do the things you don't know how to do. I think it's cheaper in the long run vs doing it wrong and causing a problem. Plus, it's often quicker with much less frustration.

BTW, I've been working on my bike for about 8 years now, and I have no idea how the solenoids for the gas and vapor are connected (they were removed when I purchased the bike).
 
Dave found that one of the throttle cables is not the correct one so he can't adjust the free play in that carb & so can't properly sync them. He's going to order the correct one and then have at it. I had noticed that there didn't seem to be any free play in that side but figured it was just my unfamiliarity with the bike. Anyway, I'm gonna be out of town for a while so it might be a week or so before any more progress.

One of the joys of old cars & bikes...fixing previous owner's 'fixes'. I can understand making some changes but often it seems like doing it right the first time wouldn't have been all that much harder or more expensive. On well...if it was easy it wouldn't be as much fun.

Dave concurred with the majority opinion...leave the PAS off...it's more trouble than it's worth. Anyone need a set of PAS bits? Such a deal I have for you...
 
/ mod hat on /

Please do not offer items in a "deal" through the forum. That's what the Fleamarket, etc., are all about. Besides, nobody want's the PAS stuff...it's all about taking the stuff off.

Thanks...

/ mod hat off /
 
Oops...sorry. I was actually joking...left out the smilie. I didn't figure anyone would take it seriously.
 
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