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Missing O2 sensor

D.Ed

New member
1995 R1100RS with 19,000 miles. Picked up cheap needing a clutch. In the process of disassemble discovered the O2 sensor and harness are missing. Has a D&D exhaust with a plug in the sensor hole. Bike ran good, except for popping in the exhaust under deceleration and the slipping clutch. I guess I need to add the O2 sensor to my list of parts needed. Just surprised it ran as well as it did. Also do I need to update the clutch or can I just put a new plate in it considering it's low mileage.
 
With the starter out it looks dry in there. Just a lot of clutch dust and the plate looks really thin. I'm hearing stories now about how the previous owner beat the crap out of this bike. Still wondering how it ran so well with no O2 sensor.
 
Ed, Under certain circumstances (non-O2 coding plug, good tune, well set CO pot, non-ethanol gas, luckily well-matched injectors) an R1100 can perform very well without an O2 sensor. You might even find that the performance is poorer when you add an O2 sensor. What coding plug is installed in your electrical box?
 
Ed, Under certain circumstances (non-O2 coding plug, good tune, well set CO pot, non-ethanol gas, luckily well-matched injectors) an R1100 can perform very well without an O2 sensor. You might even find that the performance is poorer when you add an O2 sensor. What coding plug is installed in your electrical box?

None, there is nothing in the white box. This is all new to me so bear with me. I got the trans off today and the clutch plate was down to the rivets. No sign of oil just a lot of dry clutch dust. Splines are fine. Is this the right clutch for this bike, 1995 R1100RS, http://www.beemerboneyard.com/2121876cck.html It says it is not for an R1100S. I'm assuming that doesn't include the RS model.
 
If they were slipping it that much, I'd be concerned about heat damage to the the cover and pressure plates as well as the diaphragm spring. The clutch kit you referenced is correct for an R1100RS and replaces those components, but doesn't include a clutch / friction disk. Their Siebenrock Basic Plus disk is out of stock at the moment: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/2123452bp.html.
 
Yes, the cover, pressure plate and spring are shot. When I unbolted the clutch you could see the spring had no tension on it. Are the Siebenrock oil proof clutches any good or should I just put the stock plate in?
 
After a careful examination of these clutch parts it looks like the splines were over greased and the grease migrated to the plate which was then run slipping for quite some time. Even the spring has a coating of white grease. Where can I learn more about the coding plug? This bike has none.
 
A friend who owns a local independent motorcycle repair shop just finished training at Thunder Max. He said that virtually all O2 sensors on motorcycles are available at your local Autozone, NAPPA or what have you automotive parts stores. Generally, a wide-band sensor can be substituted for a narrow-band sensor, but not always.

D&D makes a lot of exhaust system for people who actually race their bikes. These guys tend to tune their machines without O2 sensors. The D&D FatCat on my Dyna came with plugs that you could install instead of the O2 sensors. If you use a tuner, such as the Thunder Max ECU replacement, you will need wide-band O2 sensors.

Pete

Beemerboneyard has this, which is less expensive than buying from the mother ship.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11781464492n.html

I've also read that the Bosch #13474 is a replacement.
Any parts store should have them.
 
A friend who owns a local independent motorcycle repair shop just finished training at Thunder Max. He said that virtually all O2 sensors on motorcycles are available at your local Autozone, NAPPA or what have you automotive parts stores. Generally, a wide-band sensor can be substituted for a narrow-band sensor, but not always.

D&D makes a lot of exhaust system for people who actually race their bikes. These guys tend to tune their machines without O2 sensors. The D&D FatCat on my Dyna came with plugs that you could install instead of the O2 sensors. If you use a tuner, such as the Thunder Max ECU replacement, you will need wide-band O2 sensors.

Pete

Pete, Without a controller to create a simulated-Narrowband output, a Wideband sensor can never be substituted. The electrical signals are never compatible.

An example of such a controller is the Innovate Motorsports LC-2.
 
That is interesting. One of the local Harley riders was told by the company that made his tuner that he could run narrow-band or wide-band O2 sensors with their tuner. They told him that their narrow band tuner could not take advantage extra data provided by a wide-band O2 sensors, though. I thought that was strange at the time, but I have never really looked into how an ECU reads data from an O2 sensor. I'll have to look into that. Before that, I had always assumed that O2 sensors had to be matched to the ECU.

Pete

Pete, Without a controller to create a simulated-Narrowband output, a Wideband sensor can never be substituted. The electrical signals are never compatible.

An example of such a controller is the Innovate Motorsports LC-2.
 
Finally got it together. Clutch pack from beemer boneyard but they were out plates so ordered Siebenrock basic plus from another source. Plate would not fit on input shaft and was told they never heard of that. Sent it back, figured it was defective. Beemer boneyard got them back in stock so ordered 1 from them. Came with a note saying some 1100's had oversize shafts and to call if plate would not fit and they would send oversize. Well oversize one worked and it went back together fine and works well. D&D exhaust, no O2 and no coding plugs. Was popping in exhaust before clutch install but that turned out to be exhaust leaks. Plugs look a little rich, but this bike runs great. Cable operated clutch feels much better than hyd. on my R1200RT, feels like first gear lower ratio too. Fun bike.
 
After a careful examination of these clutch parts it looks like the splines were over greased and the grease migrated to the plate which was then run slipping for quite some time. Even the spring has a coating of white grease. Where can I learn more about the coding plug? This bike has none.

The spring is supposed to have the white grease on the contact surface.

If the hub was greased instead of the splines upon assembly, the grease will be pushed out of the hub and will be slung onto the friction surface.
 
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