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Lubes and Sealant Choices

Just curious what everyone prefers for the various lubes used on their Airheads. I've always wondered this and usually learn something new everytime I ask at tech gatherings.

Here's what I've been using:

Lubes:
Forks: BMW 7.5wt
Engine Oil: Valvoline VR-1
Final Drive: Lucas Oil SAE 75W-90 Synthetic gear oil
Drive Shaft:Lucas Oil SAE 75W-90 Synthetic gear oil
Transmission Fluid: Lucas Oil SAE 75W-90 Synthetic gear oil
Transmission Spline: --haven't done them yet--
FD Spline: Molykote
Steeringhead Bearings: Lucas Red n' Tacky #2 (70%)/Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty (30%)
Swingarm: Lucas Red n' Tacky #2 (70%)/Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty (30%)
Wheel Bearings: --haven't done them yet--
Thread Locking: Permatex Loc-tite blue
Anti-locking: Permatex Anti-Sieze (where appropriate, non-internals, headers, etc.)

Sealants:
Cylinder to Block: Permatex Ultra Gray
Electrical Connections: Permatex Di-Electric grease
Fork Top Nuts: I used a light coating of Permatex Hylomar to prevent leakage at threads through after-market top clamp slot.

I also have AMSOIL Synthetic 75W-140 for extreme pressure gear oil but thought its a bit overkill.

How am I doing? Anyone see/know of problems with these?
 

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I'm game

Lubes:
Forks: BMW 7.5wt
Engine Oil: Numerous brands/ Standard & SemiSynth 20/50 and 20/40
Final Drive: Valvoline 85w-140
Drive Shaft: Valvoline 85w-140
Transmission Fluid: Valvoline 85w-140
Transmission Spline: Honda Stuff.
FD Spline: Is there a need?
Steeringhead Bearings: not yet
Swingarm: What ever's in the grease gun
Wheel Bearings: --haven't done them yet--
Thread Locking: Permatex Loc-tite blue
Anti-locking: Caterpillar Anti-Seize

Sealants: Silicone in a black toothpaste tube
Cylinder to Block: i'll leave that alone for now
Electrical Connections: white grease
Fork Top Nuts: ?
 
My local place sells RedLine products, so that's what I'm using in the engine, tranny, rear drive, and drive shaft...I also use Lucas Red 'n' Tacky anywhere that needs grease, and I think I'm pretty much on the same page in terms of everything else...
 
I use Cosmoline :hide for everything including packing the crank case with it. The only exception is the transmission (clutch) spline shaft, where I use BMW motorcycle lube Microlube GL 261 "For use on the Clutch Spline Shaft."

Be prepared to take out a 2nd mortgage to buy what is probably a 2 oz. tube. I think they are so embarrassed to let you know how much an ounce you are actually paying for MINERAL OIL AND LITHIUM SOAP - that they won't print on the tube how much is actually in there.

After buying that tube Cosmoline is all I can afford for everything else. :laugh

Well, hey - at least it's made in Germany.

I'll probably find out - after lubing them 2 days ago - that this lube is ONLY recommended for BMW's splines built AFTER 1980 due to a difference in the metallurgy. :rolleyes
 
AA- you have truly outdone yourself, and everyone else! This will be SO MUCH MORE than your basic "what's the best oil?" thread!!! Way to go!!! :stick

actually, your question is a good one. as stated choices seem fine. there may be places where red loctite is called for rather than blue. Honda Moly 60 is the generally preferred lube for splines, but other chioces, if high in molybdenum, are suitable.
lots of variablility as to what is good- be aware of what you are trying to accomplish at each application, and proceed from there.
 
AA- you have truly outdone yourself, and everyone else! This will be SO MUCH MORE than your basic "what's the best oil?" thread!!! Way to go!!! :stick

actually, your question is a good one. as stated choices seem fine. there may be places where red loctite is called for rather than blue. Honda Moly 60 is the generally preferred lube for splines, but other chioces, if high in molybdenum, are suitable.
lots of variablility as to what is good- be aware of what you are trying to accomplish at each application, and proceed from there.

That's why this thread is going to be GREAT! :rocker

...with questions like this: If the consensus is to use spline lube high in moly why is BMW selling spline lube with absolutely NO moly and only lithium?


:lurk
 
...don't know.
probably for the same reason i have a tube of BMW lube from about 20 years ago that was recommended then for K bike spline lubes; but subsequently was informed that it was thoroughly ineffective in doing its intended job. it sits on the shelf, unused.
 
That's why this thread is going to be GREAT! :rocker

...with questions like this: If the consensus is to use spline lube high in moly why is BMW selling spline lube with absolutely NO moly and only lithium?


:lurk
Go to the airheads list archive and search for a few of Tom Cutter's posts on the subject. His take (having been on the inside at BMWNA for many years, including as an instructor at their technician school) is that BMW has been trying to come up with something satisfactory for literally decades, unsuccessfully. He tells a particularly amusing (or troublesome, depending on your point of view) tale of how the original specs for what should have been a satisfactory product were bastardized in the name of cost to fit an existing (and inadequate) lubricant that ended up being packaged with a BMW label. This tale is backed up by his experience, including removing a tranny only a couple months after having lubed the splines with the BMW goop, and finding the splines dry!

Tom sez he uses Honda Moly 60 with good results -- that alone would be good enough for me, but I now have enough personal experience with it to also report excellent performance in this application.
 
AA- you have truly outdone yourself, and everyone else! This will be SO MUCH MORE than your basic "what's the best oil?" thread!!! Way to go!!! :stick

Well, I figured either this thread would go away quietly or light up the religious brand pref war, but nowhere in between.

Tom sez he uses Honda Moly 60 with good results -- that alone would be good enough for me, but I now have enough personal experience with it to also report excellent performance in this application.
+1 on that!

Actually, I know enough to know I don't know stuff...so I like to query, digest then make a decision. Nearly everyone on this board likely has at least twice my experience riding and wrenching on bikes. I've grown a bit as I learn, enough to be classified as a conscious competent (meaning I can do it, but its not second nature).

I love this board. :thumb
 
It won't be long until you get to the next stage -- comfortable with the basics, i.e., knowing just enough to be truly dangerous :D :laugh

Dangerous? You know that feeling you get leaning back in a chair and JUST catching yourself before you fall over backwards? I feel like that all the time. :drink
 
Oh no, an oil thread!

But I'll play (this is on an 84 R100RT):

Lubes:

Engine Oil: Redline 20W-50 (year round, in Boston)
Final Drive: Redline Shockproof Heavy
Drive Shaft: Redline Shockproof Heavy
Transmission Fluid: Redline Shockproof Heavy
Transmission Spline: DuPont Krytox
FD Spline: DuPont Krytox
Steeringhead Bearings: Haven't done yet, but will use Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff)
Swingarm: Mobil 1 synthetic grease (the red stuff)
Wheel Bearings: -- Haven't done yet, but will use Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff)
Thread Locking: Loctite blue
Anti-locking: Permatex Anti-Seize

Sealants: Head pipes to mufflers - Black hi-temp silicone
Cylinder to Block: Haven't done yet, but will use Permatex Ultra-Grey
Electrical Connections: Radio Shack Dielectrical (silicone) grease; Radio Shack heat sink paste under the ICU
Fork Top Nuts: Huh?
 
For about 20 years I have been using Bostik Pure Nickel Never Seez with great results! Has a temp rating of 2400 F and it really stays in place! Used once on
your exhaust nuts or spark plug holes and there is a good chance you'll never need to use it again. I also use it on all splines and many bolts that are subject to corrosion like the allens that hold the mufflers or front alt cover.
 
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