LED Headlight Conversion (wash, rinse, repeat ...) - Resistors?

[Scott9999]

I added LED lights back in 2022, haven't put more than 300 miles on the bike since then (another story ), and my 2018 RT has just started popping a "light out" code for the high beams. So, I'm gonna do the whole "tear the front end off the bike to get to the dang headlights" thingy again this winter, and am looking for help on the proper resistors and installation. These LED's were supposed to come equipped with resistors to resolve the issue, but apparently, they don't.

• The resistors I've commonly seen mentioned are 50W, 6 Ohm, usually metal (heat sinks). Is that the correct target spec?
• My understanding is that the resistors are installed one-to-a-circuit. For high beams, does that mean I only need one on that circuit? I haven't traced the harness back from the headlights, but would assume that at some point they're joined, since they use the same switch.
• The examples I've seen install instructions, placing the resistor between the power and ground wires. (Example, below, though he's describing an LED tail light; same principle)
  
  
• Can these resistors be installed someplace other than the (very crowded) light assembly, e.g. somewhere back further on the bike's frame?
• My intention at the moment is to place a resistor in both low and high beam circuits, when I do this task, because it's such a pain to get to this area of the bike. If the low beams aren't triggering codes (yet!), what's the risk of doing so? CAN-bus detects a "low draw" condition with the LED's because they use less energy. The resistors add to the draw, to balance out the draw per what CAN-bus is programmed to expect. I'm thinking of the low beams could end up pulling too much power, with the added resistor.
• There's no published authority that I'm aware of, on the proper current draw that CAN-bus is programmed to expect, but a good guess is that it's identical to the draw of a 12V 55W halogen H1 or H7 bulb. Whatever that figure is, I have to match it with the LED bulb draw + the resistor draw. (Or, just dump these LED's and buy Cyclops brand. )

It's one of those "I think I know what I'm doing, but maybe not so much" thingys. I appreciate the help!

 

[pauls1150]

Partial answer - A 6Ω resistor in a 12 volt circuit will pull 2 amps, which "may" be in the range that the computer expects to see; this resistor will eat 24 watts of power, so a 50 watt resistor is a good choice. They can be physically placed anywhere that's convenient, out of the way, and allowed some airflow to carry the heat away.

 

[meatman]

Call the guys at Cyclops. They might even help you sort out your issue with the existing set up you have. Darryl (owner) and his crew are super knowledgeable and have been 100% in similar issues I've had in the pass. Last time I called, Darryl answered the phone and walked me through my issue.

 

[Scott9999]

Call the guys at Cyclops. They might even help you sort out your issue with the existing set up you have. Darryl (owner) and his crew are super knowledgeable and have been 100% in similar issues I've had in the pass. Last time I called, Darryl answered the phone and walked me through my issue.

Well, thanks a bunch for the tip. However, I didn't buy their product from them, and hence, would be reluctant to request "customer service" help from them. If these LED's don't work out, I may dump them and order new one's from Cyclops. Or, maybe I'll simply leave them as is, and run the RT without any headlights. Could be more exciting that way.