K75 Rejuvenation

[MCRyder]

I'm looking to get back on a Beemer after a 6 year layoff, last one was '93 K1100RS. Most interested in an Airhead, 90+ R100RT is the most desireable. But I'm also considering getting another K75. I've had two and enjoyed their smoothness and handling. I've got a line on a '92 K75RT for touring duty. 37K and clean looking, nice price, seems to be taken care of, service records come with it. I understand the reality in buying a 23 year old machine and the work that might be needed in getting it to full touring duty. I've got a mental list of what work I'd do/have done if I bought it:

Replace most rubber based parts - brake lines, fuel lines, vent lines, TB boots, alternator shock pads
Inspect, lube (or) replace bearings - wheel, final drive, steering head.
Inspect/clean/lube/replace cables.
Clean electrical connections - ECU, ABS.
Inspect/lube final drive splines, clutch splines.
Inspect/replace filters - air, fuel.
Inspect/replace tires, brake pads.
Inspect/adjust valves.
General inspect/clean (the commutator in the starter especially, once got stranded on the road with a grimy one.)

Anything else that I might've overlooked? Feedback appreciated.

 

[jcj78]

The little rubber grommet thingies that keep the appropriate pressure on the valve cover. The bolts that hold that cover on are shoulder bolts, and they bottom out. The grommets hold the appropriate pressure on the valve cover. If you ever remove your valve cover, and you don't replace 20yr+ old ones, the valve cover tends to drip oil thereafter until you do.

check the fan for proper operation and/or add a relay switch to turn on the fan before the thermostat does. IBMW has some good write-ups on how to do this.

 

[roncooper]

Don't lube the clutch cable. It has a teflon-like lining that will swell if oiled. DO clean and lube the barrel in the clutch lever that the cable end attaches to. It must rotate freely in the lever or the cable will break.

 

[MCRyder]

Well, went ahead and done it. After 6 years of No Beemer purgatory I bought the K75RT I had my eye on, found it in the MOA Flea Market. It was located in Conroe, TX so it only involved a 350 mile trailer run. It's in the garage waiting for me to pull the FD to check the splines, and start in on my list of things to do. Gotta remember to renew my MOA membership, interestingly enough the packet to renew came in the same day I picked up the RT, serindipity?

 

[MCRyder]

For the gearheads

Pulled off the FD to check the splines. As said the RT has 37K miles, so averaged only 1600 miles per year. The PO didn't know of any lube that had been done, and the service records show none being done. This made me nervous about their condition. I was taking a bit of a chance. But the relative low miles, the PO's riding style (easy/soft), and BMW upgrading the metallurgy of the splines in 1989 meant I was banking my bet.

Photos:



Look in good condition No rust or deformation. There's trace amounts of lube, I guess the factory stuff. I'll slap on some Moly grease and button back up. Relieved about that, now on to the rest!

 

[PGlaves]

Looks good to me!

 

[MCRyder]

Looks good to me!

Thanks Paul. I may be hitting you up for K75 tech info as I move forward. Best to you and Voni in Terilingua, enjoyed my visit in 2011.

 

[tinytrains]

The crank case breather hose is no doubt shot. Cracked a brittle. Should be replaced and it is an easy job.