R90/6 1975: I have new BMW heavyduty shocks on the front... ride has improved, big difference in the nosediving, but overall ride is only marginally better. Currently I have upgraded rear shocks with aftermarket $100 no-name brand. My question is simply, will putting $300+ into quality rear shock dramatically improve ride and handling? Please advise.
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How important are rear shocks... give a percentage?
- Thread starter rbryson
- Start date
M
Manfred
Guest
My R80RT came with a high-end rear shock, so I don't know it would have handled with stock shock on the rear. But I can tell you this: I had a 1982 Yamaha Virago XV750, mono shock rear. The first suspension upgrade I did was to put a high quality after market spring on the rear shock. It was like I was riding a whole different bike - straight tracking in the curves with great control. Upgrading the front end gave a much less noticeable improvement.
C
criminaldesign
Guest
My experience...
When I picked up my '88 mono the rear constantly bounced up and down, even going down decent smooth roads it was like being on water. Set the adjustment on the 3 settings and really no difference.
Luckily I found the OEM rear shock on ebay off of a parts bike for $40 which solved the problem. Now the bike rides very smooth and stable.
It also seemed that with the shock that was replaced, it acted like a pump, pushing a good deal of lube from rear swing arm to the rear drive. The rear drive would would have access lube where it seemed the swing arm had very little. Noticed this especially during and after longer rides. Kinda guessing at this, but when the shock was replaced I never had a problem with the lube again, swing arm and read drive have remained constant since and the bike is tight, no dripping or spots whatsoever. Educated guess, haha.
So in my circumstances, replacing the rear shock not only smoothed out the ride, it seemed to solve what we originally thought was a seal problem.
When I picked up my '88 mono the rear constantly bounced up and down, even going down decent smooth roads it was like being on water. Set the adjustment on the 3 settings and really no difference.
Luckily I found the OEM rear shock on ebay off of a parts bike for $40 which solved the problem. Now the bike rides very smooth and stable.
It also seemed that with the shock that was replaced, it acted like a pump, pushing a good deal of lube from rear swing arm to the rear drive. The rear drive would would have access lube where it seemed the swing arm had very little. Noticed this especially during and after longer rides. Kinda guessing at this, but when the shock was replaced I never had a problem with the lube again, swing arm and read drive have remained constant since and the bike is tight, no dripping or spots whatsoever. Educated guess, haha.
So in my circumstances, replacing the rear shock not only smoothed out the ride, it seemed to solve what we originally thought was a seal problem.
S
shire2000
Guest
There is a HUGE difference between cheap $100 shocks and good quality $300 shocks. But you don't have to pay the $800 for OEM BMW shocks. I am not a body builder. But when I was looking for new shocks for my 1981 R100RT last year, I checked out a set of the el cheapo MTD shocks that go for $100. I could compress them and pull them apart by hand. I grabbed a set of $300 Progressives and I could not budge them.
Since installing the Progressive shocks, my bike handles better than it did from the factory. Fixed almost all of my handling issues and made the ride much more comfortable. And that is on the lowest setting, which leaves me lots of room for when they slowly degrade over the next 100,000 miles. The last of my handling issues were fixed when I put a stock size new tire on the rear and threw away a Metzler Metronic with 80% life left on it. Previous owner didn't have a clue putting that skin on the bike. It was almost dangerous by itself.
So, YES. It does make a difference getting quality shocks.
Since installing the Progressive shocks, my bike handles better than it did from the factory. Fixed almost all of my handling issues and made the ride much more comfortable. And that is on the lowest setting, which leaves me lots of room for when they slowly degrade over the next 100,000 miles. The last of my handling issues were fixed when I put a stock size new tire on the rear and threw away a Metzler Metronic with 80% life left on it. Previous owner didn't have a clue putting that skin on the bike. It was almost dangerous by itself.
So, YES. It does make a difference getting quality shocks.
Rinty
New member
rear shocks
Also, the swing arms flex on these bikes, so, after installation of good quality shocks, you may have a slight sashay during high speed cornering over uneven roadway. That was my experience with my R 100 RS after I installed HD Konis on the rear, and before I installed a braced swing arm.
But it depends on how hard you ride. Put on a set of quality rear shocks and then see how you like it. You may decide you don't need the modded swing arm.
Also, the swing arms flex on these bikes, so, after installation of good quality shocks, you may have a slight sashay during high speed cornering over uneven roadway. That was my experience with my R 100 RS after I installed HD Konis on the rear, and before I installed a braced swing arm.
But it depends on how hard you ride. Put on a set of quality rear shocks and then see how you like it. You may decide you don't need the modded swing arm.
Thanks for the feedback. It seems that the rear shocks are more important than the front. This is certainly not what I expected. The bike does some bouncing over bumps but I contributed that to the front end. Obviously it was the rear causing this.Any suggestions on what I should get in the $350-$300 range? I weigh 200 pounds if that helps, am 57 years old and not an aggressive rider. I bought the R90/6 new in 1975.
ccolwell
Active member
I disagree that the front supension is less important. It's easier to deal with the rear stepping out on a bumpy turn than the front doing the same -- particularly under braking. That said, I'd go with Ikons, the Koni replicas. They work nicely on my R90S and I'm 220 and not much younger. And I would definitely spend the $100 or so it will cost for new fork springs and 10w fork oil -- 5w if you prefer ride to handling. You'll be impressed by the improvement.
S
sumran
Guest
They are both important, but there is a big difference. You get what you bought on the rear. There may be some adjustability in the system but it is primarily bolt and go. The front end takes some trial and error adjustment to get it whare you want it. Different weights of oil, different volumes of oil, adjustments to the amount of spacer. Above all, the front requires careful alignment or none of the above will help.
I have Konis on the back and I like them. I don't have the front where I want it yet. It is too hard, but it is a comfort issue now rather than a handling issue. It used to dive badly and was in need of a full fork rebuild. I need to take a Saturday and get it properly adjusted. That project just hasn't been able to get off of the back burner.
I have Konis on the back and I like them. I don't have the front where I want it yet. It is too hard, but it is a comfort issue now rather than a handling issue. It used to dive badly and was in need of a full fork rebuild. I need to take a Saturday and get it properly adjusted. That project just hasn't been able to get off of the back burner.
J
JAMESDUNN
Guest
Forsa shocks.
Does anyone here have any experience with Forsa brand shocks? They were stocked as an aftermarket item by some BMW dealers. I bought a new pair and have installed them on a R100RS but have not ridden the bike since installation. They seem well made, are adjustable and heavy duty. I paid one hundred dollars from a private individual who purchased them on a closeout deal from an ex-BMW dealer. Cheap if they are good; perhaps not such a good deal should they prove to be "boingers". I do push the old girl pretty hard at times. Thanks for any feedback.
Does anyone here have any experience with Forsa brand shocks? They were stocked as an aftermarket item by some BMW dealers. I bought a new pair and have installed them on a R100RS but have not ridden the bike since installation. They seem well made, are adjustable and heavy duty. I paid one hundred dollars from a private individual who purchased them on a closeout deal from an ex-BMW dealer. Cheap if they are good; perhaps not such a good deal should they prove to be "boingers". I do push the old girl pretty hard at times. Thanks for any feedback.
Suspension upgrades should always be done both front and rear and I can attest that you will feel that you bought a whole new bike. Your handling will be greatly affected to the positive. I have hear good things about Koni's for your bike. I personally have run Works shocks on several different bikes with great results.
My 2 cents anyway...
My 2 cents anyway...
B
brentde3
Guest
I've been looking into doing getting some new shocks for the my /6 as well. Ikon seems to be really good, though slightly pricey (~$370 seems like it).
May I suggest YSS? They have a gas-charged shock with threaded preload (good stuff) with spring chosen based on rider stats (weight, etc.) for $300. I met Klaus (the guy that puts them together) at the NY Cycle World show. Very helpful and courteous. I'm heading that way, I think, as soon as the weather warms up. Anybody have any experience with YSS?
May I suggest YSS? They have a gas-charged shock with threaded preload (good stuff) with spring chosen based on rider stats (weight, etc.) for $300. I met Klaus (the guy that puts them together) at the NY Cycle World show. Very helpful and courteous. I'm heading that way, I think, as soon as the weather warms up. Anybody have any experience with YSS?
V
VANZEN
Guest
on the mark !
Always consider the chassis as a [/u]SYSTEM[/u].
Changing out one part or another of that SYSTEM often results in diminished handling capabilities.
My 2?ó:
Koni 7610, or the Ikon clone –
Old-school shock design ... that means "STIFF", with minimal progressive damping / rebound action.
Still a good "low bucks" alternative esp for 'spirited' riding.
Very good quality shocks can be had at a more reasonable price by forgoing
the "adjustability" features.
Works, Progressive, and Fox offer shocks fill that bill and are up-to-date tech at a mid-range price.
High-end shocks like Ohlins, Wibur, and Penske are EXCELLENT choices –
if your riding style can appreciate the differences
and the cost of total adjustability can be justified.
BMW issued shocks are overpriced, and if my experience is an indication,
are prone to spew oil all over the rear tire and revert to "springs" at the most inopportune times.
I have installed Forsa shocks ... but only on O.P.s' bikes – and only because the owner insisted.
Always consider the chassis as a [/u]SYSTEM[/u].
Changing out one part or another of that SYSTEM often results in diminished handling capabilities.
My 2?ó:
Koni 7610, or the Ikon clone –
Old-school shock design ... that means "STIFF", with minimal progressive damping / rebound action.
Still a good "low bucks" alternative esp for 'spirited' riding.
Very good quality shocks can be had at a more reasonable price by forgoing
the "adjustability" features.
Works, Progressive, and Fox offer shocks fill that bill and are up-to-date tech at a mid-range price.
High-end shocks like Ohlins, Wibur, and Penske are EXCELLENT choices –
if your riding style can appreciate the differences
and the cost of total adjustability can be justified.
BMW issued shocks are overpriced, and if my experience is an indication,
are prone to spew oil all over the rear tire and revert to "springs" at the most inopportune times.
I have installed Forsa shocks ... but only on O.P.s' bikes – and only because the owner insisted.
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What to do?
What I did before any changes to 74/R90s was to confirm what I had read about it. Found a sweeper with a bump, nothing too severe, laid the bike over at a safe speed, hit the bump and found the flexy wallowing that followed.
The changes made included Koni adjustable on the rear with a rear fork brace, and top triple clamp by CC Products at the front with lower San Jose fork brace. Also, Progressive springs in the front with a 7.5 weight oil. Pic. is on p. 55 in pictures thread.
Go back, hit the same bump and things are a little more under control. The bike now goes through one amplitude of bounce before it recovers, which about all I care to remedy. The next thing I would have done would have been the side front braces but I don't know if they are any longer available.
Any bike that meets your fancy, one that you love riding, is a continuing work in progress. It becomes a friend, kinda like a good dog.
What I did before any changes to 74/R90s was to confirm what I had read about it. Found a sweeper with a bump, nothing too severe, laid the bike over at a safe speed, hit the bump and found the flexy wallowing that followed.
The changes made included Koni adjustable on the rear with a rear fork brace, and top triple clamp by CC Products at the front with lower San Jose fork brace. Also, Progressive springs in the front with a 7.5 weight oil. Pic. is on p. 55 in pictures thread.
Go back, hit the same bump and things are a little more under control. The bike now goes through one amplitude of bounce before it recovers, which about all I care to remedy. The next thing I would have done would have been the side front braces but I don't know if they are any longer available.
Any bike that meets your fancy, one that you love riding, is a continuing work in progress. It becomes a friend, kinda like a good dog.
26667
the Wizard of Oz
Ikon prices
Shop around. I got my Ikons from Vech at Bench Mark Works in '07 for considerably less than the $370 quoted above. I'd have to look at the bill. It's been awhile, but I believe it was right around $300 two seasons ago. For me at age 57, and not terribly aggressive the best part is that they are adjustable, both damping and rebound and they can be easily changed from day to day, ride to ride. I replaced the 30 year-old originals, so you'd have to expect a significant difference. So I may not be the most unbiased opinion.
Shop around. I got my Ikons from Vech at Bench Mark Works in '07 for considerably less than the $370 quoted above. I'd have to look at the bill. It's been awhile, but I believe it was right around $300 two seasons ago. For me at age 57, and not terribly aggressive the best part is that they are adjustable, both damping and rebound and they can be easily changed from day to day, ride to ride. I replaced the 30 year-old originals, so you'd have to expect a significant difference. So I may not be the most unbiased opinion.
moshe_levy
New member
I bought a pair for my R100S at the NYC show myself.
I'm lucky to live near both Klaus and Tom Cutter, both of whom sell YSS. The YSS equipped bikes I've ridden - well, just one, actually - performed quite well. More compliant than the Progressive 412s that I put on my former R90/6.
I wrote up a pretty substantial article for Motorcycle Consumer News last December, comparing Hyperpro to Ohlins for the Oilhead RT. Bottom line after weeks of testing: Tuning matters a "helluva" lot more than the hardware does, all else equal. With Klaus and Tom nearby, I feel quite safe trusting either of them to properly tune the hardware they sell and specialize in. Klaus especially is a suspension genius, and can set the shocks up very close to optimal from the get-go.
-MKL
J
JAMESDUNN
Guest
Top triple clamp.
San Jose BMW has a top triple to fit R100RS's for about 120.00. A pretty good price. I am going to purchase one, then install a pair of Progressive springs. I already have a Telefix brace on. I noticed an immediate difference after installing the brace. The front end felt "more of a piece". The Forsa shocks I put on back worked well as I rode the bike a couple of days ago.
San Jose BMW has a top triple to fit R100RS's for about 120.00. A pretty good price. I am going to purchase one, then install a pair of Progressive springs. I already have a Telefix brace on. I noticed an immediate difference after installing the brace. The front end felt "more of a piece". The Forsa shocks I put on back worked well as I rode the bike a couple of days ago.
Yes, I just ordered another SJB upper triple yesterday - for my other RS. I figured I was going in there anyway to fix the previous owners:
sloppy euro switch routing
disconnected steering damper
instrument cluster which for some odd reason is mounted too low
dodgy horn mounting
it is probably a good time as well to:
rebuild the front MC,
clean and lube steering head bearings
I like to stack jobs as long as I am going in somewhere - I feel it saves me time in the long run...
